I do have a separate toggle switch labeled "ES" under a flip up toggle cover; it is in series with my starter switch, and enable switch. I did this not plan this with the idea to prevent theft, but to prevent inadvertent starter operation, although it might frustrate a thief. I plan on doing the same with my RV10.
I only have rocker switches, with the starter button on the stick grip. When I go away, I made the canopy lift angle a bit bigger and drilled a hole to suit a padlock. Sure a crowbar would break it, but so would a hammer to the canopy.
That's what insurance is for, and if you want to flog my -9A, fill ya boots. I'll take the cheque and buy an RV-10 kit!
I only have rocker switches, with the starter button on the stick grip. When I go away, I made the canopy lift angle a bit bigger and drilled a hole to suit a padlock. Sure a crowbar would break it, but so would a hammer to the canopy.
That's what insurance is for, and if you want to flog my -9A, fill ya boots. I'll take the cheque and buy an RV-10 kit!
I don't like key switches and won't ever have one in any plane I build. Toggles on the panel and a start button on the stick. Simple, functional, and I'm accustomed to it.
I don't ever worry about theft; that's why I have insurance.
I use a keyed master with mag switches and push button start...
For locking I use a slider lock, based on one I cobbled up but currently being machined and sold by a friend who likes making aluminum chips...
If you would like one, contact Joe directly at 250 768 3384. He is asking $110 USD or $120 CAD delivered by post in Canada and the US. The padlock is not included.
This shows my original design, with Joe's refinement, rotated, slightly higher and anodized at a little more than half the weight...
This shows the canopy in the fully closed position...
This shows the canopy in the slightly open "ventilation" position...