Rudder rolled leading edge question

[RV6-KPTW]

Section 7 page 11 step 2 - roll the leading edge

This shape can be flattish or round. Too round will interfere with the vert stab. I like the shape in the photo but wonder if it is too round? This shows 1 3/4” off the spar. How does that compare to successful rudders?

Thanks

 

[Dr_Dave_MT]

Rudder Roll

Section 7 page 11 step 2 - roll the leading edge

This shape can be flattish or round. Too round will interfere with the vert stab. I like the shape in the photo but wonder if it is too round? This shows 1 3/4” off the spar. How does that compare to successful rudders?

Thanks

Looks good.

I went out and measured my finished RV-10 rudder. The section you imaged I measured the same as yours @ 1.75", the center gap is 2.0" and the lower end is 2.125"

Here are some images from my rudder roll -

https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojentry&proj=7hWk80w9r&e=7up3K3YKd&listcat=&sid=

 

[Richard Connell]

It’s very hard to quantify with a measurement, but I’d err on the side of rounder rather than flatter.
I don’t believe I’ve ever seen the rudder brush the VS spar web (I haven’t looked closely though) but I’ve most definitely seen the rudder leading edge brush the VS skins towards the bottom if the leading edge is “flatter” ie the curving starts too far forward of the rudder spar.
Hope that makes sense.

 

[RV6-KPTW]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input. I see rounder being better. Based on the high views but low responses, I figured this was a non-issue for most builds.

 

[David Paule]

Not a -10 or a -14 builder, but check that the beginning of the curve isn't too far aft. It looks as if it starts well aft of the edge of the spar there.

Dave
RV-3B now on cowl and baffles

 

[bertschb]

Can I assume that if we roll the edge to match the templates that are in the plans that we'll be OK????

 

[RV6-KPTW]

Hi Bertbschb. Templates would make this easy. Where do you see those?

Thanks

 

[bertschb]

Hi Bertbschb. Templates would make this easy. Where do you see those?

Thanks

For the RV-14, the templates are shown in Section 7-13. I'm guessing the plans for the RV-10 do not include templates???

This is what they look like for the -14

 

[Dr_Dave_MT]

For the RV-14, the templates are shown in Section 7-13. I'm guessing the plans for the RV-10 do not include templates???

This is what they look like for the -14

No Sir.

But then the RV-10 model is 20-years old, so I was surprised the plans were not on Mimeograph paper.

My 11x17" plans for the RV-10 foam rib templates are not to the correct scale anyways. (i.e. the page margins are posa be 16" and are actually only 15.5")

For the RV-10 they have you use a 1.25" dowel rod. (Go to Lowes, they have several diameters available. I cut 6" off for the short roll sections)


-dl

 

[bertschb]

Just another rookie first time builder assumption on my part. Rolling the edges with the templates was difficult enough. Can't imagine doing it without templates! Seems like that would be something easily added to plans that lack them.

 

[Dr_Dave_MT]

Just another rookie first time builder assumption on my part. Rolling the edges with the templates was difficult enough. Can't imagine doing it without templates! Seems like that would be something easily added to plans that lack them.

Actually it worked pretty well. You sort of "over roll" for the spring back, then check the results. The final tweek was by using my fingertips massaging the edges for final fit.

https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojp...d&p=7up6dEjQF&listcat=&cat=Tail Feathers&sid=

 

[Tassie]

Make it easier

Rolling the edges with the templates was difficult enough.

Excuse the thread drift, but here's a tip. This isn't my idea, it came from someone else a long, long time ago.

Buy two clean pieces of thin wall galvanized pipe, 1" internal diameter and 1.5" internal diameter. Mine are 26.5" long, I seem to recall the length mattered in terms of the rudder, and the outside diameters are 33mm and 42+ mm respectively. Get some cheap sockets of a size that "just" fits inside the pipe, two of each. I used 3/8" drive sockets. Drill 3 holes around the circumference at each end, and weld the sockets in place on each end. Grind off any excess and make sure the welds, and for that matter the entire pipes, are clean and smooth. Sand if necessary.

Carefully draw a straight line along the length of the pipe. Tape the rudder/elevator edge to be rolled to the pipe with duct or gorilla tape. With the edge to be rolled lying flat on a table, i.e. the roller is on top, use a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar on each end to perform the roll, pressing the pipe "down" on the table at the same time you rotate it. With the ratchets/breaker bars each end you have a great deal of control over the rotation. I also used the same pipes single ended for those bends where you can't get to both ends.

The smaller pipe is for the elevators and top of the rudder, the larger pipe for the bottom of the rudder. I think.

Excuse the rust and lousy welding on the following picture, don't know why I've kept these but this is what I used many years ago:

 

[JonJay]

. “ pressing the pipe "down" on the table at the same time you rotate it.”

This is critical to insure the bend doesn’t start right at the spar flange and form a crease or sharp transition into the curve. This is a common “build error” that makes it more difficult to get it rolled properly. You can do it yourself but it’s much easier to have someone hold it down while you roll.

Also, make sure you break the edge so the two sides lay flat where you rivet. This is another area I see where folks did not do as well as they could.

There seems to be enough tolerance/clearance that neither of these causes a particular issue, but it makes a difference in ease of making the roll, ease of riveting, and appearance.

 

[DanH]

“ pressing the pipe "down" on the table at the same time you rotate it.”

This is critical to insure the bend doesn’t start right at the spar flange and form a crease or sharp transition into the curve. This is a common “build error” that makes it more difficult to get it rolled properly. You can do it yourself but it’s much easier to have someone hold it down while you roll.

And much, much easier is a couple of J-bolts.

Lay down a sheet of plastic between the table and the skin so the whole panel can slide toward the bolts as you roll.
.