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Rudder/Brake Pedal Angles

skelrad

Well Known Member
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I'm not sure if I'm just blind and don't see any callouts in the instructions, or if it's just not in there: I've got the brake pedals mounted to the rudder pedals, and now I need to drill holes for the brake cylinders. Given that the rudder tubes are offset from each other, is there a time tested method for getting the brake pedals set at a good angle and even with each other? I assume they should be set back a bit from the rudder tubes, but not sure how much.
 
Brake pedals

I'm not sure if I'm just blind and don't see any callouts in the instructions, or if it's just not in there: I've got the brake pedals mounted to the rudder pedals, and now I need to drill holes for the brake cylinders. Given that the rudder tubes are offset from each other, is there a time tested method for getting the brake pedals set at a good angle and even with each other? I assume they should be set back a bit from the rudder tubes, but not sure how much.

Assemble the weldments with the blocks.
Lay the assembly on the bench.
Lay a board underneath so it spans the weldment foot pedals.
Lay another board across under the brake pedals.
Shim to the angle desired.
Drill the holes.
 
The method that Larry described will work fine.
Mine were already installed in the cockpit and were drilled in situ, also by clamping in alignment.
There is a construction drawing that shows the side view of the rudder/brake pedals and how the brake pedals are set slightly forward.
There is a limit to how far forward the brake pedal can tilt due to edge distance where the cylinder bolt attaches at the bottom. The further forward that it can tilt the better, because this reduces the likelihood of unintentionally applying the brakes when pressing on the rudder bars.
I used a flat metal strap with two holes the same distance apart as on the brake cylinders to experiment with the position of the brake pedals before marking and drilling the holes.
 
If you are at a point that you can clamp in the pedal assembly and sit in the fuse on some cushions, you can get a better idea of how your foot will fit with the movement. Tie some thin rope to each pedal weldment so you can hold the bar against your foot as you try it....

Your foot does not point straight up with your knee bent. So if you have a normal inseam, the bottom of the weldment should be pulled towards you and allow you to apply rudder without riding the brakes.
seating.JPG
 
If you are at a point that you can clamp in the pedal assembly and sit in the fuse on some cushions, you can get a better idea of how your foot will fit with the movement. Tie some thin rope to each pedal weldment so you can hold the bar against your foot as you try it....

Your foot does not point straight up with your knee bent. So if you have a normal inseam, the bottom of the weldment should be pulled towards you and allow you to apply rudder without riding the brakes.
View attachment 43779

+1

I tweak the rudder pedal angle (different block mounting and strap length) then tweak the brake pedal angle to get something that puts the brake pedal in the best position. You want to be able to push the rudder without applying brakes, yet want only a small incremental movement to activate the brakes. On the 6 I followed the plans and have to lift my feet up to get good braking. I did the above on the 10 and it is much more refined .

Larry
 
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