Van's Air Force
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Rudder & Aileron Ground Locks
- Thread starter Geico266
- Start date
robertahegy
Moderator/Tech Counselor
The easiest way is to use the belts to tie up the ailerons and elevator, then make a "U" shaped lock from 1/4" steel rod. Drill a hole in the rudder stop and the rudder horn on one side, insert the "U" shaped lock into the holes drilled, and secure with a hitch pin. My lock is about 4" long with 90 deg bends on each end with 2-3" legs. A hole is drilled in the end of one of the legs for the hitch pin. Get a remove before flight flag and attach it to the hitch pin.
This was an idea I got from the RVator. Their instructions said to use 3/16" rod, but the 1/4" seems less likely to bend.
Roberta
This was an idea I got from the RVator. Their instructions said to use 3/16" rod, but the 1/4" seems less likely to bend.
Roberta
redbeardmark
Well Known Member
control locks
If you don't want to use the seatbelts to lock down the stick, try this: make a two plastic disks about 2 1/2 - 3 inches in diameter, glue on some foam rubber/rubber/something soft, drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of each disk, run a piece of 1/4 inch threaded rod through the holes and put washers, lock washers, and wing nuts on both ends. Slide this assembly in the gap between the aileron and the wingtip fairing and tighten it down(not so tight as to crack things). Repeat using 3/16 inch (or smaller) for the ailerons.
To be honest, I didn't fab mine up. I bought some furniture leg pads (coasters), the kind you put down beneath the legs of the furniture to protect the carpet... works for me.
If you don't want to use the seatbelts to lock down the stick, try this: make a two plastic disks about 2 1/2 - 3 inches in diameter, glue on some foam rubber/rubber/something soft, drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of each disk, run a piece of 1/4 inch threaded rod through the holes and put washers, lock washers, and wing nuts on both ends. Slide this assembly in the gap between the aileron and the wingtip fairing and tighten it down(not so tight as to crack things). Repeat using 3/16 inch (or smaller) for the ailerons.
To be honest, I didn't fab mine up. I bought some furniture leg pads (coasters), the kind you put down beneath the legs of the furniture to protect the carpet... works for me.
f1rocket
Well Known Member
Another cool idea I saw for the aileron/elevator lock is to bend a coat hangar to fit around your stick grip. Then run "arms" at 45 degrees forward to your panel where you can clip the bent end of the arm in a couple of holes.
I agree with Roberta that you should go up to at least 1/4" on the rod for the rudder stop. The one on my RV-6 was smaller and tended to flex a little in a stiff wind.
I agree with Roberta that you should go up to at least 1/4" on the rod for the rudder stop. The one on my RV-6 was smaller and tended to flex a little in a stiff wind.
Geico266
Well Known Member
I found some drywall repair things for when you open the door too fast that will work great for the ailerons & elevator. I glued 1/4 foam insulation to them to protect the surface, and tied two togeather. A bungie cord holds it in place on the wing when its windy. For the rudder I took 2 each 1/2 PVC pipe, 3 feet long and slipped them into that closed cell insulation stuff and then ran a 1/4" nylon cord through them and tied the ends togeather. I just slip it over the top of the rudder. It kinda ugly, but it will work until I get it painted, then I will go with the 1/4" U bolt set up.
Thanks again for all your ideas and input.
Thanks again for all your ideas and input.
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The "U" shaped wire Rudder Lock
If you don't want to drill a fairly large hole in your fairly soft rudder horn and stop, small hole to accommodate "U"s made of steel hinge pin on both sides of the rudder works extremely well. If you try the small wire on one side two short comings exist 1) there is some play (if you want to get the wire in and out) and the holes will elongate 2) the "U" will pop it out of one of the holes (yes even if it is 4" long). If you use two "U"s there is no play (in mine anyway) and the rudder is rock solid and straight. I tied the two together with a loop of nylon lacing tape (the kind that is used to tie wire bundles in aircraft) and added a red RBF flag to the center. You cannot move the rudder with this configuration so in addition to the flag add be sure control freedom of movement and range of motion is on your preflight (somewhere before takeoff) list.
If you don't want to drill a fairly large hole in your fairly soft rudder horn and stop, small hole to accommodate "U"s made of steel hinge pin on both sides of the rudder works extremely well. If you try the small wire on one side two short comings exist 1) there is some play (if you want to get the wire in and out) and the holes will elongate 2) the "U" will pop it out of one of the holes (yes even if it is 4" long). If you use two "U"s there is no play (in mine anyway) and the rudder is rock solid and straight. I tied the two together with a loop of nylon lacing tape (the kind that is used to tie wire bundles in aircraft) and added a red RBF flag to the center. You cannot move the rudder with this configuration so in addition to the flag add be sure control freedom of movement and range of motion is on your preflight (somewhere before takeoff) list.
If you use the aforementions type of rudder lock, be sure to add a LARGE "remove before flight" streamer. Another method is to make a fixture out of PVC pipe that will fit between the rudder pedals and the main spar. This will lock the rudder and be difficult to miss on the pre-takeoff checklist.
Mel...DAR
Mel...DAR
