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De-pinning D-sub Frustration!

claycookiemonster

claycookiemonster

Well Known Member
Is it the weather? The phases of the moon? Sometimes it works fine. Easy-peasy. And then, without noticing anything changing, suddenly I can't get pins out at all. I've got the good Mil Spec tools from Stein. I'm using the correct WHITE one. Brand new fresh out of the package. After getting 7 of 9 out without drama, now I can't get the d-pinning tool in far enough to engage the locking mechanism. It stops with a bit of the split still visible no matter how I orient it. Am I deforming the tool somehow? Is there some way to check if it's gotten too open or too closed?
This is maddening.
 
I think sometimes the crimp distortion on the pins can cause a pin to be difficult. Also side load on the pin from athe wire can make it difficult. This is a common phenomenon. What works best for me is rotating the tool around the wire, while applying light pressure and wiggling.
 
claycookiemonster said:
Is it the weather? The phases of the moon? Sometimes it works fine. Easy-peasy. And then, without noticing anything changing, suddenly I can't get pins out at all. I've got the good Mil Spec tools from Stein. I'm using the correct WHITE one. Brand new fresh out of the package. After getting 7 of 9 out without drama, now I can't get the d-pinning tool in far enough to engage the locking mechanism. It stops with a bit of the split still visible no matter how I orient it. Am I deforming the tool somehow? Is there some way to check if it's gotten too open or too closed?
This is maddening.
Click to expand...
What crimper are you using, and is it adjusted properly for your wire gauge? De-pinning connectors is never a sure thing, but I've seen the success rate go down when the contacts have been mangled or smashed into a pancake.

If all else fails, you can try a different extractor tool. And they're cheap enough to keep a spare on hand, in case you accidentally bend the fragile fingers on the business end.
 
Use two of those plastic insert/extract tools. Push from the back with the insert side of one, then push the extract tool in till it bottoms out. Then pull on the wire.

Alternately, you can look for the metal Daniels DRK145 extraction tool.

s-l1600.jpg
 
If you really can't get them out, try what I ended up doing once.

Using a flush wire cutter, clip the offending wire from the pin flush with the back side of the d-sub. Without the wire in place, the pin comes out easier. Do the usual "insert the removal tool" and push the pin out from the opposite side. Semi-pro tip: use a piece of .040" safety wire to push a female pin out of the housing. Strip the wire end and crimp on a replacement pin. The wire will only be about 3/32-1/8" shorter.

I've used to this "last resort" on a few occasions.
 
Male pin, insert extraction tool and push the pin out with a nail set.
Female pin, insert extraction tool, insert paper clip and push the pin out.
 
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I buy pin extractors 10 at a time because they inevitably bend as I try to work them onto the pins. The Daniels tool seems to be a little better, but it's so expensive I'm afraid to use it.
 
Sometimes had success with a plastic extractor against a metal one, or the other way round.
Still, both types will fail me, probably too much jerking around, after about 10ea extractions...
 
The daniels extractor tool can help, but it is expensive. I bought one and I think its worth it. I still use other types of extractors too but the daniels tool works very well. Oh and don't even bother with any of the plastic only extractors.
 
One thing that can cause this difficulty is having your wire stripped too far back when you crimp the pin. The bigger the gap of bare wire between the pin and where the insulation starts, then more opportunity for the extraction tool to get hung up on the crimped end of the pin before it gets down into the locking collar.

I'm not hard over on this, but my goal is always to have the wire stripped to a length where bare wire is visible in the witness hole with the insulation pretty much butted up against the base of the pin.
 
IMG_1702.jpegIMG_1703.jpegHere's what i use, Harting 09990000368. available on Amazon and others

Keith Rhea
Rv7
2024 Donation
 
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