JonJay
Well Known Member
Wow ! How many hours has this plane been flying? Perhaps another testament to the robustness of the design, but obviously this plane should be grounded and fixed. Good catch.
Wow ! How many hours has this plane been flying? Perhaps another testament to the robustness of the design, but obviously this plane should be grounded and fixed. Good catch.
Wow ! How many hours has this plane been flying? Perhaps another testament to the robustness of the design, but obviously this plane should be grounded and fixed. Good catch.
Can someone knowledgeable explain what exactly is wrong with this work, besides not per plan? Us non builders would like to learn from the example.
Is it the 3rd bolt?
The edge distance?
Distance the two good bolts are from the longeron?
Thanks in advance.
I will be doing this soon. Any tips for getting it perfect?
I will be doing this soon. Any tips for getting it perfect?
Yeah - measure about 10 times, then think a while before drilling.
Ok, that's a bit tongue-in-cheek, but one must be very deliberate when doing this job. It's not rocket science but you absolutely need to take your time.
Can someone knowledgeable explain what exactly is wrong with this work, besides not per plan? Us non builders would like to learn from the example.
Is it the 3rd bolt?
The edge distance?
Distance the two good bolts are from the longeron?
Thanks in advance.
I will be doing this soon. Any tips for getting it perfect?
Bob, I'm not that knowledgeable, but if you look at Vic's first picture, you will see that the end bolt either cuts or misses all together the longeron(where the #4 is) on the top side, which you can't see.
Start with #40 holes and work up in several increments.
Measure and carefully mark the edge distances on both parts.
A needle file can adjust the location of the holes as you slowly increase the holes for the AN3 bolts.
That, and the rear spar wing bolts. were the two hardest critical holes to get correct on the -6.
The pictures that Rob posted show a very common fix. It works and is approved by Van's. But don't hesitate to check with them for your particular situation.
Vic
Vic,
Just curious as to how YOU would fix this type of issue.
Would you:
A. drill out the top panel rivets and remake the attachment angles, redrill and
re-rivet the area or
B. perform the Vans approved fix.
Thanks for bringing this to light. I am facing this right now with my 6A.
I will be doing this soon. Any tips for getting it perfect?
I'll take a pot shot at this: picture #1- notch for rivet in top of angle, likely not a problem.http://imgur.com/a/dVejP
I checked mine today, everything looks good to my untrained eye. Anybody see anything note worthy?
I agree something doesn't look right on push pull tube, it would make me very nervous, also don't like the way vertical support ground out
The rivets on the elevator push rod is not what I have seen in the past. In a RV7, there are (I believe 8) that goes around and not in one row.
Dan,
Per Vans, I used 0.125 2024 T3. Good eye, there is an additional 0.63 spacer in there as well. I did raise the rear spar to compensate and allow for the extra thickness of the gussets. So, without the shims the HS is located per plans.
The shims were added per the testing done by Bob Axiom and other RV-6 builders that found an .063 spacer trimmed the HS out a little better. It has been a couple years, so I would have to go back to my log to verify all this, but that is what I recall.
Found this today on a condition inspection.
I made the gussets like Colin was nice enough to give me the dimensions for and now am ready for the HS to be drilled and mounted. So here's the confusion. My RV-6A is a non prepunched '90's kit. In the construction manual there is no call out for a shim. On the plans sheet 34 it shows a .125 shim and in Colin's message above he calls out a .063 shim but has allowed for the gusset thickness on the rear spar. What is the current wisdom on what size shim to use?