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3/32 Pop-rivet replacement

SmittysRV

SmittysRV

Well Known Member
Is there such a thing a pop-rivet replacement for a 3/32 rivet with the same structural integrity?
 
Closest thing I ever found:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/CCC32cherryRivets.php

04-00981.jpg
 
Tried using the ones ACS sells - went back buying from Vans

I tried those but had problems with the mandrels not breaking off cleanly. Went back to ordering the MK-319-BS from Vans when I need some.

Jim how many do you need?
 
I have used ACS part number MSC-32 which have been replaced by the CCC-32 CHERRY RIVET, part no. 04-00981, same one that Brian suggested. I had no problems with the MSC-32 rivets, seemed to work fine for me but can't speak directly to the newer CHERRY replacement rivet.
 
Well, here's my issue. I forgot to put in the bottom row of rivets into the bottom fuse skin, that go into the bottom angle piece, which is riveted to the back of the firewall. I must have had cowling hinge on my mind, which doesn't even attach back there. I have already put in my aluminum tubing and the fuel pump. I don't relish the idea of banging on the skin with a rivet gun to put in these missing rivets. The vibration might affect my tubing connections and the fuel pump. So, I thought some sort of high-strength cherry max pop rivet might be the way to go. Opinions are welcome!
 
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Rivet

CR3214-4- rivet is a 1/8" rivet with a 3/32 flush head. Will this work? How many do you need? P.M. me if you would like a few.
Andrew
 
I've always wondered why there was never a reference chart for solid and blind rivets.

It would be great to look at a chart and see what the properties are for AN426 or 470 rivets are. Then cross reference that with a blind rivet that has similar properties for compression, tension, and shear forces.

It sure would make life a lot easier.

Good thread though. I've already learned a few things...

Phil
 
CR3214-4- rivet is a 1/8" rivet with a 3/32 flush head. Will this work? How many do you need? P.M. me if you would like a few.
Click to expand...

When you say 1/8" rivet, do you mean the diameter of the hole where the rivet goes in?
 
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I guess I'm looking for a replacement for the MK-319-BS that has the strength of a regular rivet:

fig5-16.gif
 
Hey, that rivet ident graphic...

...is way cool. Where did that come from?

BTW, I think as long as you stick with a blind rivet rated "structural", you'll be fine.
 
rivet info

off the top of my head
Cherry rivet numbers make a little sense. Even numbers sit even with the surface (flush). Small numbers are nominal with a gold washer or cap (gold is good) and have an anchor on the head that looks like a smiling dog with the stem being the nose (after it is installed and the cap falls off). Universal head are odd numbered. Oversized, the number is bigger, and the anchor is reversed so it looks like a frowning dog (not happy because the hole is oversize) the cap is silver (sh---,not so good, big hole)
CR3212 nom flush: CR3213 nom universal: CR3214 nom 1097 flush head
CR3242 o/s flush; CR3243 o/s universal
First dash is dia in 1/32" ( ie four dash), second dash in maximum grip 1/16" (ie dash four)
CR3214-4-3 is a 1097 head 4/32=1/8" dia grip between anything over 2/16 to 3/16"
Drill 4- nom #30; 4- o/s #27; nom 5- #21; o/s 5- #16; nom 6-#11; o/s 6-#5
These are aluminum rivets, monel rivet are CR3522 and 23, CR3552 and 53
Andrew
 
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I scanned it from Van's instructional manual. I'm not sure that the 3/32 MK pop-rivet is as strong as a real rivet.
 
Phil said:
I've always wondered why there was never a reference chart for solid and blind rivets. It would be great to look at a chart and see what the properties are for AN426 or 470 rivets are. Then cross reference that with a blind rivet that has similar properties for compression, tension, and shear forces.
Click to expand...

You may get partial satisfaction from this:

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w14.htm

a link recently posted on VAF by another VAF member

erich
 
The MK series...

erich weaver said:
You may get partial satisfaction from this:

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w14.htm

a link recently posted on VAF by another VAF member

erich
Click to expand...

...is on this page....

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w18.htm

The 258 lbs shear is pretty comparable to the 275 of a driven rivet, and by the time you have drilled the dimpled hole out to 7/64 for the MK319 rivet, you will have a hole with nice straight sides - which is good since the pull rivets don't expand sideways as well as a driven rivet.

gil A - probably my previous post...:)
 
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no need for pop rivets

SmittysRV said:
The vibration might affect my tubing connections and the fuel pump. So, I thought some sort of high-strength cherry max pop rivet might be the way to go. Opinions are welcome!
Click to expand...
Hey Smitty - no worries. If I was you and I was concerned about it, I would simply unbolt the fuel pump (2 bolts) and remove any easily removable lines near the firewall. The vent lines and forward fuel lines come out easy.

Since you are riveting at the front, there won't be much vibration back near the fuel valve and those lines. If it still bugs you, just use blue tape and tape stuff down so it won't vibrate.

There isn't really that much vibration driving these little rivets if you have a good bucking bar.

BTW - you'll be riveting on the fuselage plenty later on so it isn't really an issue.
 
Update: I ordered some CCC-32 stainless steel Cherry pop rivets from Aircraft Spruce, just in case I ever need them. I was able to put in my firewall rivets with the help of my good buddy Norwood without any problem. I took this picture thinking that someone out there my want to know that there is actually a 3/32" pop-rivet to be had.

cherrymax.jpg
 
Mel said:
The MK319 is acceptable anywhere an AN3 rivet is called for on an RV kit.
Click to expand...
It might be a bit of a stretch to say "anywhere," if you go strictly by the rules. The Standard Aircraft Handbook says the minimum edge spacing for a countersunk-head rivet (e.g., and AN426AD3) is 2.5D. As an example of where you might have a problem, on the RV-14(A), Van's spaced the row of rivets that attach the bottom wing skins to the main spar 0.25" from the forward edge of the skin. For a 3/32" rivet, 2.5D = 7.5/32 which is less than 0.25" (8/32"). But the MK-319-BS rivet is 7/64" in diameter, and 2.5D = 17.5/64 > 0.25" (16/64").
 
CF86301 said:
It might be a bit of a stretch to say "anywhere," if you go strictly by the rules. The Standard Aircraft Handbook says the minimum edge spacing for a countersunk-head rivet (e.g., and AN426AD3) is 2.5D. As an example of where you might have a problem, on the RV-14(A), Van's spaced the row of rivets that attach the bottom wing skins to the main spar 0.25" from the forward edge of the skin. For a 3/32" rivet, 2.5D = 7.5/32 which is less than 0.25" (8/32"). But the MK-319-BS rivet is 7/64" in diameter, and 2.5D = 17.5/64 > 0.25" (16/64").
Click to expand...
I have never seen a minimum edge distance rule of 2.5D
The standard used for design of RV’s is 2D.
 
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