What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Removing proseal from fuel sender plate

F

FlyingDiver

Well Known Member
I removed the fuel sender mounting plate (T-1209) to install the SL-0070 inspection kit (and also reseal one weeping rivet). What's the recommended method for cleaning off the old proseal?

Is just sanding the surfaces down good enough? (I doubt it). Sand and then MEK?
 
FlyingDiver said:
I removed the fuel sender mounting plate (T-1209) to install the SL-0070 inspection kit (and also reseal one weeping rivet). What's the recommended method for cleaning off the old proseal?

Is just sanding the surfaces down good enough? (I doubt it). Sand and then MEK?
Click to expand...
i used an ''epoxy remover'' from ace hdwe that really softened and ate into the proseal. made it go a lot easier.
 
bobnoffs said:
i used an ''epoxy remover'' from ace hdwe that really softened and ate into the proseal. made it go a lot easier.
Click to expand...
After the 1st time I disassembled my tank (Kit #121) to incorporate improvements I bought a small jar of "Proseal Remover" (I don't recall the exact product name).
It worked terrific without much mess. Just don't get it on any Prosealed Joint or surface that you want unaffected!
For a one-time job I'd just scrap it off as best I could without scratching the surface, trust any remaining (thin layer) of sealant to be well-adhered and just apply Proseal over it when reassembling.
There are also "rubbery" wheels that attach to a drill or grinder but again, for a small job I wouldn't bother getting one.
I hadn't thought of the epoxy remover. Worth a try.
Have fun!
 
There's really no need to remove ALL of the old Proseal, if you're just going to use that again to reseal. My favorite tool is a razor blade. Slice the PS as if you were shaving it off. Obviously takes some practice to get the technique, but this method is much easier and cleaner (YMMV, of course). Depending on how thick it is, you can shave it off in thin layers instead of all at once, if that works better for you.
 
Plastic “razor” blades, phenolic scraper, and MEK. Clean it right up.
 
Old 1-inch wide stiff putty knife, sharpened on a grinder.
A cheap (disposable) Dremel wire brush helps the tough spots.
 
hgerhardt said:
There's really no need to remove ALL of the old Proseal, if you're just going to use that again to reseal. My favorite tool is a razor blade. Slice the PS as if you were shaving it off. Obviously takes some practice to get the technique, but this method is much easier and cleaner (YMMV, of course). Depending on how thick it is, you can shave it off in thin layers instead of all at once, if that works better for you.
Click to expand...
Yup
Tank sealant adheres very well to previously cured sealant as long as it is clean.
I scrap both surfaces clean as well as possible with a sharpened plastic scraper made of scrap canopy material and then reinstall.
 
Aircraft Spruce sells PolyGone sealant remover gel. Paint it on, let it set for an hour or so, then scrub it off with a stiff nylon brisltle brush. May need to repeat, but it really helps soften and loosen the proseal.
 
Poly gone makes it very clean and no scratches on the AL although it’s not necessary. I did use it and I would use it again. Takes off poly seal without any issues. Working it into the poly seal with a brush gets it to come off faster.
 
Auto mechanics use a 90-degree die grinder and scotch brite disc to remove old stuck gasket material and prepare it for new gasket and reassembly. It also works very will on removing old Sealant and prepare the surface for solvent cleaning and reassembly for new tank sealant. Just did the same to remove 30-year old tank sealant from some aluminum sheet metal, it worked great, and looks like new.
 
I used small scoctch brite type dremel wheels. I got them on amazon. They are cheap and i used several as they wore out quickly.

Henry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top