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Prop Nick. When to field dress vs send to shop

Manchu16

Manchu16

Active Member
Found a 1/16” nick during preflight. First one in over 500 hrs on this prop. It’s well within the specs for field dressing per 20-37E.

Tempted to just do the field overhaul with my AP, but I don’t want to end up with an unbalanced prop. Was hoping to hear some other perspectives. My AP normally works on a rental fleet.

As an aside recommendation from AP was to use small rat tail file to smooth out the nick, getting just below the surface of the impact. Then take a few passes with a fine flat file down the leading edge of both blades to smooth out each blade. Was clear that we need to maintain the airfoil on both sides. After that bend it the nick using the 5x guidance on each side. He said normally small nicks like this get partially worked in by the long passes on the blade. Finally sand the leading edges before prime and touch up paint.IMG_5149.jpeg
 
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That’s nothing.. let him dress it out.. you’ll never even be able to see where it was after he’s done. Then go look at a rental plane, there’s way more than you’ll believe! Don’t worry about the rebalance.. I had much worse, I had it rebalanced, and the guy said it was still perfect.
 
Dressing

My IA does the same. A few quick passes with a fine flat file on each leading edge every annual as the rain down south does a number on the leading edge. Uses a polishing compound on a rag to smooth it out after. Has paint from Spruce he sprays on it to protect the edge.

Haven't needed it on my leading edge yet, but have watched him on other annuals in the hangar. Great way to learn.
 
Hartzell Field Repair

If this is a Hartzell, the guidance for field repairs, including procedures and limits, is in the Owner's Manual that came with the prop, starting on page 6-29 in the current revision available on our website.

From your pictures and description, this appears to be well within the repairs that can be performed in the field.
 
Cth6 said:
My IA does the same. A few quick passes with a fine flat file on each leading edge every annual as the rain down south does a number on the leading edge. Uses a polishing compound on a rag to smooth it out after. Has paint from Spruce he sprays on it to protect the edge.

Haven't needed it on my leading edge yet, but have watched him on other annuals in the hangar. Great way to learn.
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t get in the habit of dressing the prop at every annual unless absolutely necessary. Props have a minimum chord and thickness at various stations. It is possible to dress beyond the minimums resulting in a scrapped prop at overhaul. Obvious nicks need to be dressed per the applicable manual. Otherwise, I’d leave it alone. Please consult with your favorite prop shop.
 
TParker said:
If this is a Hartzell, the guidance for field repairs, including procedures and limits, is in the Owner's Manual that came with the prop, starting on page 6-29 in the current revision available on our website.

From your pictures and description, this appears to be well within the repairs that can be performed in the field.
Click to expand...

Thanks, great info in there and thanks for sharing. The prop is a FP Sensenich.
 
Taltruda said:
That’s nothing.. let him dress it out.. you’ll never even be able to see where it was after he’s done. Then go look at a rental plane, there’s way more than you’ll believe! Don’t worry about the rebalance.. I had much worse, I had it rebalanced, and the guy said it was still perfect.
Click to expand...

I realize that I am probably being nit picky and over thinking this. Just an area that I am still very much learning about.
 
Thank you for all of the information. Just went just below the nick and feathered it out. Sorry no picks, but dressed up the nick and one other questionable area. Feels great, needs paint.

Does anyone know of a good rattlecan that is close to sensenich gray? Alodined the raw metal, but want to spray the two small areas. Grabbed one rustoelum gray and not close. Flat black looks perfect on the back.
 
Go look at a floatplane prop. They get chewed to bits by the water spray. One wouldn't think so with water, but prop tip speed is pretty high and water is good at erosion. The difference between water and rocks is that water opens up the blade leading edge like a banana. It's pretty neat (when it's not your prop).

It's probably isn't legal, but a lot of floatplane pilots will smooth over all the burrs and erosion damage with a multi-tool every couple days during the walk around. Mechanics clean it up at 50hr inspections.
 
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