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McMaster Seal Gutter Cutting

skajake

I'm New Here
I am preparing to make the initial cut the canopy door gutters to prepare them for the mcmaster seal.

Theres quite a bit of information floating around on this process, but one thing I cannot quite determine is how much of the door gutter to leave when making the initial cut. I am not asking about thickness, I am asking about length of the flange. I have seen some sources say 1 to 1 1/8 inch. For reference I plan to use the method of stuffing the seal with flox to form the proper thickness around the gutter.

See: this previous comment.

But since most of the pictures are offline, it is not clear to me if this would be measured from the inside corner of the gutter. Any insights?
 
I determined where I wanted/needed the seal to sit on the door while closed. I then marked where the current flange sits on the door, measured how far back the flange needed to be cut at multiple stations, and proceeded that way. Grinding back slowly to meet my 'seal' line on the door as its closed.

Then, I addressed the thickness of the flange for the seal. Made a little 'jig' at the desired gap and ran that round the inside of the gutter with the door closed. That marked where I need to grind thinner/ build up. I'll install a sacrificial seal with flox to make the 'base' for the final seal to sit on.

I'll micro blend all that to make it looks like its supposed to be that way.

Some variation out there but, I found this to be the average summary of what people are doing. Its one of those tasks that's hard to visualize by just reading, until you're covered in dust.
 
I determined where I wanted/needed the seal to sit on the door while closed. I then marked where the current flange sits on the door, measured how far back the flange needed to be cut at multiple stations, and proceeded that way. Grinding back slowly to meet my 'seal' line on the door as its closed.


So, presumably, you build and fit the doors first, then do the cut an seal installation? I haven't built my doors yet and have been working on other things than the -10 for a while recently, but hopefully will be getting more into the cabin cover finalization and doors/seals soon.
 
As option, I used these self adhesive seals on my first RV-10. The get attached to the door, not the door frame. I suggest something between 3/8” and 1/2” tall.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/door-seals/edge-seals-1~/mount-type~adhesive-back/

After 12 years they are still as good as the day they went on the plane.

The door frame sill is cut down enough so it does not hit the door. The bottom of the door frame is built up using foam then covered with fiberglass - make for easy “butt slide” getting in and out of the plane.

Carl
 
So, presumably, you build and fit the doors first, then do the cut an seal installation? I haven't built my doors yet and have been working on other things than the -10 for a while recently, but hopefully will be getting more into the cabin cover finalization and doors/seals soon.

Yes. Build/rough fit the doors first. Then, start measuring/cutting the seal gaps/flanges next.

While the end product is a very nice install..... If I had to do this round 2, I'd probably follow Carl's route.
 
As option, I used these self adhesive seals on my first RV-10. The get attached to the door, not the door frame. I suggest something between 3/8” and 1/2” tall.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/door-seals/edge-seals-1~/mount-type~adhesive-back/

After 12 years they are still as good as the day they went on the plane.

The door frame sill is cut down enough so it does not hit the door. The bottom of the door frame is built up using foam then covered with fiberglass - make for easy “butt slide” getting in and out of the plane.

Carl

oooh, will consider this
 
As option, I used these self adhesive seals on my first RV-10. The get attached to the door, not the door frame. I suggest something between 3/8” and 1/2” tall.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/door-seals/edge-seals-1~/mount-type~adhesive-back/

After 12 years they are still as good as the day they went on the plane.

The door frame sill is cut down enough so it does not hit the door. The bottom of the door frame is built up using foam then covered with fiberglass - make for easy “butt slide” getting in and out of the plane.

Carl

Carl, do you have any pictures of the final look, and maybe of the installation process you undertook? This sounds like a very good option, maybe enough for me to buy new seal material even though I already have the "traditional" McMaster seals in a box.
 
Here's a picture of my installation using the method Carl described. Obviously, the seal is attached to the door, not the cabin top. Here's a quick how-to:

1) Get the doors to fit.
2) Relieve the channel in the cabin top so there's an even 1/8" clearance between the closed and latched door and the lip of the channel. Flatten the lip of the channel so it is parallel to the inside door skin.
3) Install a D shaped (in my case 3/8" wide x 3/16" tall) seal on the door which will collapse against the channel lip.
4) Done...

(Click on the pic for a larger view).
 

Attachments

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    door seal.jpg
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I found one photo. Note the rigid foam filler in the door hinge pockets. This is glued in to provide a flat, continuous surface for the seal.

The seal itself is cheap so you can experiment with different seal height to get the best result.

Carl
IMG-9950.jpg
 
Interesting that both of you have a much larger lip left on the cabin cover than the plans show. The scribe line is further down the side of the lip.
 
Interesting that both of you have a much larger lip left on the cabin cover than the plans show. The scribe line is further down the side of the lip.

Yep - as there was no need to cut it down further I left is as is. If nothing else I figured a little more of this lip would add some strength.

The bottom of the door opening was filled in with rigid foam then fiberglass to make sliding in and out easier.

Sorry - photos are on my other computer.
Carl
 
Unfortunately I saw your pictures after cutting down to the scribe line, so I guess this option is out for me.
 
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