Page 26-03 Figure 1 is looking at the aft side of the seat back with the corrugations protruding out towards you. The hinge mounts on the aft side below the second corrugation.
Page 26-03 NOTE: For Steps 3 through 8, all factory rivet heads go on the forward side and the shop heads go on the aft side. This will make the seats look better and the shop heads will not be poking you or the seat cushions.
Page 26-03 Step 7: Leave open the first hole at both ends of the lower seatback angle where the bolts go.
Page 26-03 Figure 3: This is still a view of the aft side. The flat side of the F-1237H hinge mounts against the forward side of the seatback.
Page 26-03 Figure 4 is looking at the forward side of the seatback. The two bolts, MS21083-N3 are also known as AN364-1032.
Page 27-02 Step 1: It is OK to use a hacksaw to cut the nylon blocks. A washer will fill the saw kerf. Clean excess paint out of holes in rudder to make room for hardware shown in figure 4.
Page 27-02 Step 5 Figure 4: Change AN3-6 to AN3-7 as shown in Figure 3 of the next page.
Page 27-02 Step 6: It says to slide the Brake Pedals over the torque tube and against the WD-1206 BRAKE Pedals. It should read, "against the WD-1206 Rudder Pedals."
Page 27-02 Step 7: It will be much easier to install the brass fittings now from Page 27-04 Step 4. Cover the fittings to keep dirt out.
Page 27-03 Figure 1: Notice that the center levers that the rudder cables attach to are vertical and so are the brake pedals. Although I did not try this, it might be easier to work with each WD-1206 individually by laying it flat on a table with shims to keep the center lever and brake pedals parallel. Before drilling, make sure that the torque tubes are orientated correctly. Notice that the arms of the torque tubes all point in the same direction: aft. The L & R of part numbers should match the occupant's feet.
Page 27-03 Step 8: Do NOT install the rudder pedals now. You will have to remove them when installing the finish kit. See http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=41613
Page 27-03 Figure 4: Notice that washers go between the nylon blocks and none go between the nylon blocks and the firewall shelf.
Page 27-04 Step 3: Wear gloves. Quickly pull the tube out of boiling water and dry with a towel before attempting to press in brass insert.
Page 28-02 Step 2: Put a bolt through the ring terminal before threading. Leave bolts loose for now because fore and aft play will be needed to attach the fuel line that runs forward.
Page 28-03: Read my previous posting on Bending Tube http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=39944
Page 28-04 Step 0: If you have not done so yet, countersink the bottoms of F-1276C System Blocks to allow room for the stud nuts. Use a drill press and clamp the work. All 3 of the System Blocks should rest tightly against the bottom skin. The nuts should not be holding the blocks up because the fuel lines could interfere with the flap mixer control.
Page 28-05 Step 4: Change F-1259C to F-1259J to match Figure 1. Fit tube in place before making final cut. The template is not the actual length.
Page 28-05 Step 5: Cut 13.5" because it will not be the exact length anyway. Leave some room to work.
Page 29-02 Step 2: Make F-1201J 1/8" shorter to provide clearance for the nutplate. It is impossible to make the hinge with a barrel at each end as shown in Figure 3. There will be tab on one end or the other. I chose to have the barrel on the lower end as shown.
Page 29-02 Step 3: Make sure F-1201A is de-burred on the inside flange where the spacer touches it.
Page 29-02 Step 4: Before riveting the F-1201H Upper Fwd Fuselage Doubler, make sure the rivet holes line up at the ends. It might be necessary to round the upper firewall flange segments at the left and right sides. Back up the inside of the flange between nutplates with a block of wood and a bucking bar. Tap the protruding corners of the flanges lightly with a hammer. The countersinking and dimpling in Step 4 also applies to the nutplate locations on each side of the cutout in F-1201H that will provide access to the cowl hinge pins. Bend the ends of the F-1201H Upper Fwd Fuselage Doubler inward slightly so that they will fit tight against the upper firewall after riveting.
Page 29-02 Step 6: There are 4 nutplates on the forward side of the upper firewall along the bottom edge (NOT on the flange). They are shown in the inset of Figure 3.
Page 29-02 Step 7: Dimple the shelf rivet holes also, but not the screw hole.
Page 29-02 Step 9: If you have older plans, Figure 3 says to dimple and make top side flush. Newer revisions have changed that to flush BOTTOM side.
Page 29-03 Step 0: Dimple F-1270 side skin for #8 screw hole and #40 rivet hole. See http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=41487
Page 29-04 Step 4 Figure 3 shows 3/32". Drill #40.
Page 29-04 Step 5: Dimple for #8 screws wherever K1100-08 nutplates are used.
Page 29-04 Step 8: Take steps to prevent elongating the rivet holes in the panel base while match drilling. Check each hole as you go.
Page 29-04 Step 10: Final drill #30 F-1202B Base Panel for engine mount brackets. Consider waiting to rivet F-1202J L&R until after riveting the instrument panel to them on page 29-07.
Page 29-04 Step 12: Leave open two rivet holes in longeron for F-1202Y until it is in place.
Page 29-05 Step 2: Rivet the F-1201E L&R Oil Tank Braces to the Firewall Shelf.
Page 29-05 Step 7: Temporarily attach F-1240. It will be removed later.
Page 29-05 Step 8: Dimple the nutplates called out in Figure 4 and the rivet locations ON BOTH TOP & AFT FLANGES of the F-1202D L&R Panel Attach Strips.
Page 29-06 Step 2 says to see Page 24-04. It should be Page 29-04.
Page 29-06 Step 3: Way back on Page 21-06 Step 7, I called Van's to report a mistake in the plans; that they should have said to cut the hinge 20.5" instead of 20". Their response was that it was my mistake for measuring the hinge from the end. They said that I should have cut the 20" out of the middle of the hinge. Well, they do not follow their own advice. The 6" hinge that Van's supplied with the Map Box does NOT match the drawing, having the tabs stick out on the wrong end. Not that it matters that much, but I could not resist getting even for all of the frustration they caused me and other novice builders. LOL
Page 29-06 Step 3: It says that the holes must align with other parts. Those parts are the map box bottom and the door. ONLY drill the 2 end holes in the hinge half that will attach to the Map Box bottom. Drill all 6 holes in the other hinge half and match drill the door. It will be necessary to cut 1/16" off from the bottom of the door with a vixen file in order to open it a full 90 degrees. The rivet holes will end up being 5/16" from the edge.
Page 29-06 Step 4: Hold the door tightly against the instrument panel while looking through the two holes that you drilled in ends of the Map Box bottom hinge half. The word "fudged" in the plans gives you permission to elongate the hinge rivet holes. The Map Box is not a structural part and elongating two holes in the hinge will not hurt anything. Elongate the hinge holes fore or aft if required, and left or right as necessary to center the door. Do NOT elongate holes in the Map Box. When the door is positioned correctly, cleco the hinge to the Map Box. Remove the clecos from the door and remove the Map Box from the panel and match drill the remaining 4 rivet holes in the hinge. You might want to pull the pin later for painting.
Page 29-06 Step 5: Delay installing the internal tooth washer so that you can remove the camloc fastener to facilitate painting the door.
Page 29-07 Step 1: Before installing any of the 3 instrument panel sections, measure between the center of the top holes and the top edge. That distance must be 3/8" or less in order to fit under the Upper Forward Fuselage Skin F-1240.