RV-12 Wing Plans addendum & hints by Joe Gores
The following has NOT been approved by Van's.
Suggestion to make finding parts easier: Print the bag numbers on the plans next to the hardware part numbers.
Page 14-02 Step 7: Notice that two holes in both W-1212B Left & Right are countersunk on the outside surfaces.
Page 14-02 Step 8: It is ok if the bearing can be inserted with finger pressure without using tools.
Page 14-02 Step 9: Before assembling, make sure the W1212B L&R are flat or curved slightly inward at the bearing end.
Page 14-02 Step 10: After squeezing each rivet, make sure the bearing turns freely. Mine did not and I had to order new parts.
Page 14-03 Figure 2: Change "W-1207C ATTACH RIVETS" to " W-1207C ATTACH ANGLE" in two places.
Section 15: The rib part numbers can be very confusing. I suggest that each rib be numbered from 1 to 13 (or 1 to 14) and its corresponding position on the spar be numbered. You can also spray a spot of primer paint onto each rib using different colors for left and right wings. It will not take long to mark the ribs and doing so will prevent mistakes later.
Page 15-04 Step 6: Note that the W-1210-L is attached to the outboard side of the attach angle even though the RIB DOUBLER will be bent in the process. I called Van's and was told to do it like the plans even though it does not seem right to me.
Page 15-05 Figure 1 bottom left note: change "W-1208 MAIN RIBS" to "W-1208 NOSE RIBS"
Page 15-06 Step 4: Change W-1206-L to W-1206-R
Page 15-06 Figure 2: Do not overlook the use of LP4-4 rivets as mentioned in the note.
Page 15-07 NOTE at top of page: Temporarily put the flaperon counterweight pipe inside of the aft main rib lightening holes.
Page 15-07 Step 3: Change the word ANGLES to ANGLE. Notice that all of the nose ribs are attached to the inboard side of the spar attach angles except this one, W-1208-R attaches to the outboard side.
Page 15-07 Figure 1: Change W-1208 to W-1208-L (forward and aft trimmed, 4 places).
Page 16-02 Step 1: Final?Drill to 7/64 inch the #31 holes . . . Change "mount plates inboard" to "mount plate's inboard". (added apostrophe)
Page 16-02 Step 4: The vane pivot screw should only be tightened snugly, not tight enough to deform the plates. Choose washer spacers so that the vane is able to slide on the pivot bolt with a few thousandths clearance to make sure that it does not bind.
Page 16-02 Step 6: Change .125x2x2 1/4 to 0.125 x 2 x 2.25
Page 17-02 Figure 3: It would be nice if the plans had an exploded view of holes that need to be left open on the trailing edge.
Page 17-03 Step 2: Rivet the inbd, mid, & outbd wing skins to the skeleton ONLY as called out in Figure 1.
Page 17-03 Figure 1: Change "CS4-4 28 PLACES" to " CS4-4 29 PLACES".
Page 17-03 Step 3: Think ahead so that the rivets, that you are about to pull, do not interfere with pulling future rivets.
Page 17-04 Figure 4: Change "AN426AD3-3.5 2 PLACES/NUTPLATE" to read "AN426AD3-3.5 2 PLACES PER NUTPLATE".
Page 17-05 Step 1: My parts were mislabeled LEFT & RIGHT. Van's probably corrected this mistake on later kits.
Page 17-05 Step 2: Make sure to leave holes open where indicated. Drill hole in bottom of spar for riveting W-1204C.
Page 17-05 Figure 3: Caption should read, "ATTACHING THE WINGTIP TOP SKINS".
Page 17-05 Step 4: The tip of the Rear Spar Assembly MUST be trimmed to ease fitting between the flanges of the Aft Wingtip Rib.
Page 17-06 Step 1: Using a protractor, I took the time to make template-triangles out of poster board to facilitate bending the tabs to the correct angles. Then the W-1204D fit perfectly without fighting with it. I made Obtuse-Triangles using the Supplementary Angle of that called for in the plans. For instance, if the plans called for 30 degrees, I used the Supplementary Angle of 150 degrees (180 ? 30). You can see a picture of an obtuse triangle (labeled SCALENE) at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obtuse_triangle
Page 17-06 Step 4. The plans call for LP4-4 rivets but I think they should be LP4-3.
Page 18-02 Step 1: Change to 1 1/2 x 2 x 8
Page 18-02 Step 2: Drill and tap the 3/8 x 24 (NOT 16) hole first. The hard part is getting it concentric with the existing hole. There is no sense in making all of the cuts first and then having to buy a new part because you messed up the drilling and tapping. Do not ask me how I know. LOL When laying out the #30 hole, measure 9/16 from the center line on the back. BEFORE CUTTING the sides, skip ahead to Page 18-04 Step 6. Use a carpenter square to align the A-1206 Pivot Bracket and match drill the holes. To prevent elongating the spar holes, I found it easier to mark the holes with a sharpie, then center punch and drill the A-1206 in the drill press. Cut the sides last. The dimensions 2 x 1 21/32 are not critical. Do not spend lots of time trying to get it exact. Do NOT screw the bearings into the A-1206. If you get dirt into the bearings, you have to buy new ones at $12 each plus shipping. Leave the bearings in the paper bag until you are ready to mount the flaperons onto the wing.
Page 18-02 Step 3: Make sure you ONLY flute where indicated in the figures. You do not want flutes where holes will be drilled later.
Page 18-04 Step 2: File down the edge of the A-1208 to make it flush with the A-1210 BEFORE riveting.
Page 18-04 Step 5: The AN3 bolt is NOT included with the wing kit. If you do not have one, use a number 10 screw. The washers used as a spacer should add up to 1/2 inch.
Page 18-05 Step 1: These rivets are very hard to squeeze because of the close proximity of the perpendicular angle. I used a hammer and punch and bucking bar to drive these rivets.
Page 18-05 Step 4: Change "Step 2" to "Step 3".
Page 18-06 Step 1: Make sure the inboard skin overlaps the outboard skin on BOTH sides before riveting.
Page 18-06 Step 2: Rivet the trailing edge on both sides first. These are the hardest because the rivets on one side could interfere with the rivets on the other side. If you have to drill them out, it will be much easier to get the drilled rivets out before the rest of the skin is riveted in place.
Page 18-06 Step 5: Change "using the rivets called out in Figure 1" to "using LP4-3 rivets".
Page 18-06 Step 6: Save this step for later. Leave the rod end bearings in the bag so they do not get dirt in them, unless you want to buy new bearings.
I hope the above helps some of you. Others will disagree with some of my suggestion. Ok, I am ready. Please do not be too hard on me. LOL