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  #41  
Old 10-13-2008, 01:23 AM
Steve Sampson Steve Sampson is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: N. Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,050
Default Heat off the oil cooler.

George, coincidentally I had a chance to test out my oil cooler driven heating. Its not really cold here yet but it is getting cooler.

Despite the oil running cool, around 170F, I am getting a huge volume of pleasantly warm air off the oil cooler. That is successfully providing basic warming and demisting. (I will reduce the volume of air to the cooler to increase the tmp.)

Additionally, I have a heating pad in the backrest of my seat. It draws a bit over 2 amps. At first when you turn it on you notice nothing, but 10 minutes later your back is starting to cook. In a colder climate I might run to a second one under my backside. (The element is made by a company called Greiner for Mercedes B., and weighs next to nothing.)

I am 100% satisfied with this solution for a temperate climate and would not consider a ceramic heater. Might not work in Alaska!
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G-IKON Build log here , or Index to blog here.
RV4 #4478 - Flying since 16th June '08. First flight video here.
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  #42  
Old 10-13-2008, 06:18 AM
Sheldon's Avatar
Sheldon Sheldon is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Concho, Arizona
Posts: 177
Default

I made a flapper control box mounted under the firewall mounted cooler... It works pretty good.. providing warm air for my wife's feet... (She is in control of the push/pull)... It also has the drawbacks mentioned here earlier (long decents..not much heat, etc.)... however, it does work.. I also have a flapper valve at the air input to the oil cooler for cold winter flying here in Az..... And when closed, the air flow is cut off and not much heat then.... But I can balance the two controls... Also, this setup for me, has worked very well as to oil cooling.. Never have seen over 220 deg... mostly 170-180....Sheldon
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  #43  
Old 10-13-2008, 06:16 PM
breister breister is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,231
Default

Been there, done that.

Works great right up until it gets cold enough you really need it.

It would work fine if you had a good set of cowl flaps to insure the engine (and oil) did not get cooled. But, those would add weight and complexity.

Heat muff on the exhaust works fine provided you insure a) the source of air to the muff is at higher pressure than your cabin and b) you seal the cabin well, leaving only a little leakage for positive ventilation. Sealing also has the advantage of preventing those irritating little "cold spots."
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