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  #11  
Old 07-10-2020, 07:31 PM
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N546RV N546RV is offline
 
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Location: Brookshire, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjarrell View Post
It appears you have both CPUs and Coilpacks wired directly to the main bus through the switch. SDS recommends individual breakers or fuses for each CPU and each Coilpack.

You may want to double check this with Ross or Barry.

From the installation manual:

"The Purple 20 ga on the 14pin main harness plug, needs a 2 to 5 amp fuse or breaker."

"The Red 18 ga wire on the 12pin coil harness plug. Needs a 10 to 15 amp fuse or breaker."
Hmm...I didn't think of it earlier, but I'd have this same problem with my proposed switch setup. There's no way, in one switch, to provide two separate switched current paths and a switched ground path for the kill function.
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-8 fuselage in progress (remember when I thought the wing kit had a lot of parts? HAHAHAHAHA)
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  #12  
Old 07-11-2020, 04:47 AM
David Carter David Carter is offline
 
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Location: Alpharetta, GA
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Re-read my post. I got this diagram from Barry. He has already vetted it. It originally came from another owner, but Barry sent it to me.
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RV-7A Slider N87BP (bought flying in 2018)
Superior XP-IO-360
AFP Fuel Injection & Dual SDS CPI-2 ignition
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  #13  
Old 07-11-2020, 05:58 AM
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N546RV N546RV is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Carter View Post
Re-read my post. I got this diagram from Barry. He has already vetted it. It originally came from another owner, but Barry sent it to me.
Interesting. I take it this setup only has two bus feeds (one for each switch) rather than the four described in the manual? What are your fuse/breaker values? Naively one might go with 20A by summing the recommendations from the manual, though it also seems like 15A might be fine.

It surprises me a bit to see this approved by Barry, because the manual is quite explicit about providing separate bus feeds for the ECO and coils, and using a DPST switch for them. The way it's written implies to me that it's important that those feeds be separate, but it seems like that's not the case - perhaps I'm reading too much into the documentation.

I wouldn't mind getting back two slots in my planned fuse blocks.
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  #14  
Old 07-11-2020, 07:11 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N546RV View Post
Yup, this (three position switch)is pretty much exactly the procedure I had in mind; I kind of feel like the switch setup has a certain elegance to it.
It would need to be a three position, three pole, or if unavailable in your preferred brand, three position, four pole with one unused.

In terms of serviceability, using an ON-OFF double pole for the red and purple, and a separate ON-OFF single pole for the kill means you could get field replacements almost anywhere, unlike the fancy switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by N546RV View Post
It surprises me a bit to see this approved by Barry, because the manual is quite explicit about providing separate bus feeds for the ECO and coils, and using a DPST switch for them. The way it's written implies to me that it's important that those feeds be separate, but it seems like that's not the case - perhaps I'm reading too much into the documentation.
I too am surprised. Private guidance from SDS insisted on separate red and purple power supply all the way from the source bus or battery.
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  #15  
Old 07-11-2020, 08:48 AM
Chkaharyer99 Chkaharyer99 is offline
 
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Location: Pilot Hill, CA
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I have the SDS dual CPI2 in my RV-8. I installed the provided filter supplied by SDS. My ECU?s are mounted to the bottom of the cover that is next to the right gear tower. My backup battery is also mounted there. To gain access, remove the screws and pull the cover. There is a sufficient service loop in the wiring harness to sit in the seat and rest the ECU and cover it?s mounted to on my right knee. Satisfied with this location so far.

I wired the ECU in accordance to the SDS diagram. The two hot leads go directly to my primary battery.

My display/controller is in my panel. I like it there, easy to monitor the ignition and check battery health.

Really easy to operate. The SDS support has been fantastic. Glad I waited for CPI2. Works as advertised.

Run ups and mag/system checks are easy.
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RV-8
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  #16  
Old 07-11-2020, 10:28 AM
sjarrell sjarrell is offline
 
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Location: Hendersonville, NC
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Default SDS CPi-2 Wiring Diagram - VPX, Garmin G3X

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
...I too am surprised. Private guidance from SDS insisted on separate red and purple power supply all the way from the source bus or battery.
Same here. The documentation is very clear.... power source -> breaker -> switch -> cpu feed AND source -> breaker -> switch -> Coilpack feed. (x2 if you have a dual unit). I also verified the need for the separate feed and switch for each with Ross via phone as it didn't make sense to me why you'd have to have redundant switching (master switch + individual switch).

Also SDS highly recommends not using the VPX breakers as your source of power for the Coilpack.

My system consists of:
  • VPX and G3X (panel and all avionics by SteinAir)
  • CPi-2 Dual System
  • Backup alternator and backup SDS CPi-2 battery
  • Traditional On-Off-L-R switch for my ignition. Two ground wires go from the ignition switch to the CPi-2 units that ground them out and allow testing and engine shutdown just like traditional mags would work.
  • I ran a separate feed to a separate small bus that has 4 breakers - 2-10a (Coilpack feeds) and 2-5a (cpu feeds) as SDS highly recommends NOT using the VPX breakers to feed the Coilpacks.
  • 2 DPST switches (a Coilpack and a cpu feed to each) between the breakers and the CPi-2 units.

Since my CPi-2 panel controller is on the other side of the cockpit I also have a third "LOP MODE" switch that turns the LOP mode on and off remotely and also causes a LOP Mode On annunciation on the G3X PFD.

My wiring diagram is in PDF format and is too large to load here as an image file, but if you'd like a copy you can download it here from Dropbox. Note that there are multiple pages, and the third page is the pinout drawing that's key to understanding the wiring diagram on the first page.

Here is the notice that I have in my wiring diagram that will go in my POH regarding the SDS switches in the panel:



Here are the pin numbers in the connectors. I gave the connectors my own "C" numbers to make them easier to identify for me:



Here are my switches on the left side of the panel. We decided late in the build to add the LOP MODE switch so I used the Spare switch shown here and just ordered a new switch cover. Thank goodness for spare switches!



And finally here's the panel controller and the breakers on the co-pilot's side of the panel:

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Last edited by sjarrell : 07-11-2020 at 10:55 AM.
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  #17  
Old 07-13-2020, 10:56 AM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
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Location: Calgary, Canada
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Barry had a look at the posts here and made these comments:

Nobody has reported a fuse blown yet. Not critical to mount with fuses accessible, but I would do it if it's possible. Might be good to mount the gold ecu such that you can get it out easily, since it's likely there could be a software upgrade in the future and the gold ecu needs to be removed for this.

"Engine shutdown via keypad is really only meant for installs where there is no more room for kill switches. Likely nobody would use this feature, but it was easy to add in software.

Best use the diagram posted using the honeywell switches or install dedicated kill switches. If you use pushbutton kill switches you should mount them close together so you can put your thumb across both for shutdown.

Also for proper shutdown its best to shut off the CPi2 power switches first, then press or flip kill switches, then shut off your main bus power last. This insures the CPi2 will do it's automatic power-off routine properly. Cpi2 may have trouble turning off if it's still connected to the mainbus, due to capacitors and or residual voltage from other devices in the airplane."
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Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 441.0 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


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  #18  
Old 07-13-2020, 07:37 PM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
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Location: Newport, RI
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Default 4 circuit bus

I posted earlier. Here is the four circuit bus I used. Made by Blue Seas.
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  #19  
Old 07-13-2020, 11:04 PM
Bicyclops Bicyclops is offline
 
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Location: LA, California
Posts: 326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Carter View Post
I've been running a dual CPI-2 setup for just over a year. Great unit. Like an earlier poster, I've only needed access once to install a capacitor into each of two wiring connectors.

I'm finalizing a new panel design with SteinAir, and based on feedback from SDS, I will be using a pair of locking toggle switches to provide "off", "run", and "mag check" positions for each ECU.

That portion of the panel design looks like this:



This is a wiring diagram that I got from SDS. I understand that this was created by another SDS customer, and reviewed by SDS.



I'm very tight for panel space, so this makes the most of a limited amount of real estate.
Breakers are to protect wires, not devices. If you power both the ECU and the coilpack from one breaker, all the wires to them need to be large enough that the breaker pops before any of the wires burn. So, if it's a 15A breaker, all the wires need to be able to carry 15A. That purple wire probably needs to be upsized. Other than that, I don't know why this schematic wouldn't work.

Ed Holyoke
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  #20  
Old 07-14-2020, 08:13 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicyclops View Post
Breakers are to protect wires, not devices. If you power both the ECU and the coilpack from one breaker, all the wires to them need to be large enough that the breaker pops before any of the wires burn. So, if it's a 15A breaker, all the wires need to be able to carry 15A. That purple wire probably needs to be upsized. Other than that, I don't know why this schematic wouldn't work.

Ed Holyoke
That switch is listed in the diagram as DPDT, but it is really a DP3T for those looking to use something like that. However, it only acts at a 3T when the jumpers are installed. It is needed in this case, as it continues to "make" the exsitiing connection (via a wiper) on one pole as the other pole "makes" a new connection in the top or bottom position.
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Last edited by lr172 : 07-14-2020 at 08:17 AM.
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