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Panel - Paint or Powder Coat

jeffw@sc47

Well Known Member
Has anyone painted their panel instead of powder coated - and found a paint that they would recommend for durability, or have any feedback about painting vs. powder coating? Looking at painting only as a small savings in cost, not entirely sure it is worth it to powder coat.
 
SteinAir painted and then laser etched / filled my panel for me ... no long term testing yet, but the paint is surprisingly durable. I've installed nuts on switches, etc and have not had any issue with the paint whatsoever. It looks great.
 
If you are like many of us, your panel will be modified over the years because of adding and/or changing avionics or instruments. Painting is much easier to "touch up" than powder coat.

$.02 to your favorite charity please.
 
If you are like many of us, your panel will be modified over the years because of adding and/or changing avionics or instruments.

Despite what I thought was the exact panel I would have for a long time, I've changed it 3 times in 3 years. Very happy with the paint, though. Tough, just the right amount of semi-gloss. Sherwin Williams JetFlex Interior Aircraft Finish L09026, Robin Blue, BAC 510. Will use the same exact if I build again.
 
Paint (did it myself) but Stein cut the panel and did the layout.

Three years and 350+ hours and it still looks new. No major modifications, but I've drilled a couple new holes (oil cooler) and no issues.

-Dan
 
Another vote for paint over powder coat here.

Or, you can do what I did and simply use black-anodized .063 Al sheet for panel and engrave or laser-etch through the anodized layer. The anodization is tough but will scratch with enough encouragement and is not as easy to touch up as paint. Mine looks great after five years though, I'd do it again.
 
Yet another vote for paint. I've used PPG Concept over epoxy primer for multiple panels and they've been amazingly durable.
 
Rustoleum rattle can gray. 11yrs 2000hrs Still looks surprisingly good.
 
Rattle can paint has held up well on the panel of my -6 for 17 years. So, if you like the look of paint, that's an easy solution.
 
+1 for rustoleam rattle can

Used the gray like Scott on panel, roll bar etc, 10 years later and it still looks good. Easy to spray (used the primer first), flows well, sets up quickly, and seems to handle a wide range of application temperatures. I used the Brother TZ tape labeling machine for the labels and they look OK as well.
Figs
 
Powdercoat for me. But my wife's company has a production powdercoat shop.

Bob burns
 
Jetflex water-based has held up perfectly for my panel. I put labels on using the Decalpro system and sprayed over them with some clear/flat spray paint (Krylon) and no issues. Even added the Dynon Knob panel later and had no problems cutting/filing a new opening.

Keep it simple!
 
I used rattle can paint on the RV-10 panel and had Stein print up a sheet of water slide transfer labels that I clear coated after application. It looked great but after taking the panel on and off a couple times, the paint started to chip off around the edges and mounting screws. I plan on doing the same on the RV-9A panel except for using a two stage urethane and clear coat. You can see the chipping in the photo and how the water slide transfer labels look after application and clear coat.
26435778457_ea3f1461c6_z.jpg
[/url]DSC01553 by David C, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
I painted mine with a rattle can but then had a printer reverse engrave the labels on a piece of thin sticky Lexan film that he glued on top of the panel. In three years not a mark has been left on the Lexan. It is extremely durable. You cannot feel the lettering. I added one switch to the panel since then and was able to print a white label on clear tape with a Brother labelmaker that matched the font of the other labels.
 
panel finish

I did a Type II anodizing finish on my panel. It is MUCH more durable than Type I which will fade with UV exposure over time, but you can't vary the color much and the shade of brown to black is largely dependent on the particular grade of aluminum. However, I love mine. I did the lettering in photoshop and a local laser shop etched the aluminum after the anodizing, which turned the graphics white. 3 years on mine - the text will not fade since it is oxidized aluminum. Panel anodizing is still sharp.

oun.jpg
 
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Epoxy

I used two part epoxy paint, decal pro fx for all the lettering then Matt clear coat over it all. Bullet proof.
 
Aerothane Polar Grey (stir well) with flattener.
Have used the cellulose version (Polytone?), easier to spray but not so robust.
My panel changes every couple of years - powder coat is a non-starter!

Pete
 
Paint vs. Powdercoat

Rattle can paints are amazingly durable. Panel changes may happen sooner than you think and for $6 or so you can change the color if you want. Less is better here.
 
Stock powdercoat color that matched all the Van's powdercoated parts, for consistent look throughout entire cockpit (used color-matched PPG paints for any visible interior painted parts, like the aft inside top skin, etc., also).
 
I saw an RV-14 with a powdercoated panel. I liked the look.

Stock powdercoat color that matched all the Van's powdercoated parts, for consistent look throughout entire cockpit (used color-matched PPG paints for any visible interior painted parts, like the aft inside top skin, etc., also).
 
I'll second vinyl...

Found on Amazon for a few bucks a nice section of 3M vinyl that simulates carbon fiber. It applies easily to a clean surface, and the openings are a cinch to cut. If you make a mistake, start over or even patch it with excess material (will almost disappear). Very durable over time from what I hear.
 
The thing that concerns me about vinyl is what happens to it when you tighten down a screw on it? Does it wrinkle?
 
The thing that concerns me about vinyl is what happens to it when you tighten down a screw on it? Does it wrinkle?

Firstly you need to use the good stuff from 3M -

https://www.amazon.com/3M-CA-421-BLACK-CARBON-Wrapping/dp/B005HYF2IO

...and yes it will wrinkle if you over torque the mounting screws.

I used black screws with a black nylon washer under the head - when installed by hand and just snugged down no wrinkling has occurred.

In my case the switches were not a problem since I used a black engraved plastic overlay with the required lettering. Torquing down a switch nut directly on the vinyl overlay would probably wrinkle it.
 
...
In my case the switches were not a problem since I used a black engraved plastic overlay with the required lettering. Torquing down a switch nut directly on the vinyl overlay would probably wrinkle it.

Gil
Tell us more about this engraved plastic overlay.
 
The thing that concerns me about vinyl is what happens to it when you tighten down a screw on it? Does it wrinkle?

It does, even under dzus and camlocs. I used the "good stuff" from 3M, it looks like cr*p after four years in the hangar. I can't recommend it. Glad I didn't do the whole airplane. It's fine for decals in low traffic areas.
 
It does, even under dzus and camlocs. I used the "good stuff" from 3M, it looks like cr*p after four years in the hangar. I can't recommend it. Glad I didn't do the whole airplane. It's fine for decals in low traffic areas.

I think there would be a difference between external fasteners and instrument panel screws over any sort of vinyl.

The OP was asking specifically about instrument panels.
 
I think there would be a difference between external fasteners and instrument panel screws over any sort of vinyl.

The OP was asking specifically about instrument panels.

Noted. My point is, you'll be looking at the wrinkled low gloss icky texture surface of vinyl every time you fly. Few people would put vinyl wrap in a car that costs a third of what a new RV build does:

wd384_lg.jpg
 
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Vinyl under CS screws

I just finished applying this vinyl within the past week. The screw holes for the radio were countersunk, the vinyl was applied, a small nail sized hole poked and then the screw installed. Said another way, the vinyl is squeezed between the screw and the panel metal without any distortion occurring. The same is true for the non-CS screws in the background.

 
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We powdercoat the panels on the RV-12s that are built in schools. Just redoing a 12 built three years ago, and adding a second Skyview, so must match. We are going to strip the old panel and have it powdercoated. The paint has chipped badly, with very little use.

On my personal RV-9A, I did the panel in leather. Not only is it a great look, even after 10 years, but it has a second plus. Leather is sound deadening! It made the plane 0.0002 db quieter.

Bob
 
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