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RV-12 Canopy Incident

fholbert

I'm New Here
I don't see this posted here.

07TS Georgetown TX 7/3/2106

Video https://youtu.be/IliX5VGOV_Q

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That is indeed discouraging.

My vote is for the canopy being caught by a wind gust....look at the trees.

Edit; Oops....Bruce beat me to it.....
 
O NO! did anyone get hurt, that could have been real bad! So sorry for this person, so much work goes into these things. is this considered a required prop strike teardown or does this not apply to Rotax?
 
This is not a first... I'm personally aware of three such prop strike incidents. I too have had my own similar experience but missed a prop strike by just inches. Aftermarket metal rod ends for the -12 lift struts certainly help with the all to often cracked lower ones, but nothing is a match for the force here. Some have developed their own solutions but given the frequency, expense, and safety hazard with this event, I'm hoping that Van's, Anti-Splat, Aircraft Extras, or other party will develop a clean engineered solution. It can and will happen to you and your beautiful RV-12 if you don't pay close attention to wind direction and gusts when the canopy is left partially open (moving or not) with the latch resting on top of the roll bar. Yes, I was one of those who thought it would never happen to me; but it did... and while I survived without a prop strike, both lift struts broke loose from their lower mount and the canopy swung open to within inches of the turning prop (back taxi event). This event happens so fast it's over in the blink of an eye.

This video should be required viewing for all RV-12 owners.

[ed. This aircraft looks familiar... N457JJ purchased out of Florida?]
 
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I had three sets of the plastic rod ends fail on my RV12 SLSA. They are junk. Van's knows about this and Van's should issue an SB and parts to correct the problem.

I know of one other SLSA that had the same experience in a moderate wind. In may case the rod ends broke simply from letting the canopy slip out of my hands after opening it about 2/3 of the way.

EBB
 
To the best of my knowledge, all the failures have been the "lower" lift strut rod ends. I have replaced my lower rod ends with the metal ones in hopes that will make such an accident less likely. Comments anyone?
 
The clear entry access of the 12 compared to the 6,7 and 9 is due to the strut size and rail mount location. But this location does not have the leverage of the 6,7,9 set-up.

This will continue to happen if this weakness is ignored. Never leave an open canopy unattended. Open it.... get in... close and LATCH it. Close it during fueling. Never leave it open.

You could install a simple cable 1/16th inch that would give better leverage against a wind load, but you would need to deal with it each time you enter or exit.
 
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As a temporary safety measure----a stainless cable to keep the canopy from moving too far forward. We did that on race car suspensions, to keep them attached after crashes.

This is serious.
Tom
 
Possible Fix

I wonder if a lanyard cable could be looped over the current standoff?s for the cylinder rod ends? The cable loops could be placed onto the standoff?s before securing the cylinder rod ends so that the cylinder rod ends would actually keep the lanyard in place. The lanyard would limit travel if any failure occurred to the cylinder itself or the rod ends.

McMaster-Carr has several styles of cable lanyards available with different lengths/ends. Right now I?m thinking the lanyard with loop ends might work well for this application. I?m going out to the plane today to take some measurements...
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As an interim fix, how about using a bungee cord? Attach the cord to the canopy handle and attach the free end to the horizontal crossbar behind the seats?
 
This was one of my neighbors. It is just sickening to watch this video, and I can't imagine how he feels....

It gets so hot in these planes in the summer here in Texas that we have to have some way to get air into them. With my slider it is easier, but the tipups are more of a challenge.

I wonder how hard it would be to add a second latch position. So that you could latch the canopy closed as normal, but also latch it cracked open, just for ground operations.

That would let you taxi out and get some air, and also fuel, etc. and get most of the benefits of leaving the canopy open without the risks.

Regardless this is something that Van's really needs to address. This is going to cost a ton of money (insurance?) to repair, and it is something that everyone I know with a tip up does on a regular basis.

BTW, it was fairly windy on Sunday, but I've seen/flown in a lot worse so while I'm certain the wind is what caused this, I sure wouldn't call it an excessive or unsafe amount of wind to fly in.

-Dan
 
Bungee cord

Using a bungee cord was my adaptation to this threat. My canopy opened during a turn while taxing. The crosswind caught it and flipped it open very quickly, breaking the plastic strut ends on both struts. Contact with the prop resulted in a shattered canopy, with shards whizzing past my head. Fortunately nothing struck me. This is a very real threat if you leave your canopy propped upon on the canopy handle.

As an interim fix, how about using a bungee cord? Attach the cord to the canopy handle and attach the free end to the horizontal crossbar behind the seats?
 
I wonder how hard it would be to add a second latch position. So that you could latch the canopy closed as normal, but also latch it cracked open, just for ground operations.
Wow. I've been careful about not leaving the canopy open, but I often have it sitting on the latch -- as I suspect every other -12 pilot who flies when it's hot does. That would really, really suck.

I haven't had a chance to get to the hangar to take a look and see if it would be practical, but I was thinking a horizontal slot near the top of the roll bar might be the thing. Somewhere you could latch the canopy securely open a few inches, almost as far as having the latch resting on top of the roll bar. You'd probably need a reinforcing plate, maybe .063 or even .125. Just an idea at this point, like I said I haven't even looked at mine to see if it would work. If it would, it seems like it would be a relatively easy retrofit with a Dremel and a few blind rivets.

I'd prefer something like that over any solution requiring an additional step that could be forgotten.
 
Wow. I've been careful about not leaving the canopy open, but I often have it sitting on the latch -- as I suspect every other -12 pilot who flies when it's hot does. That would really, really suck.

I haven't had a chance to get to the hangar to take a look and see if it would be practical, but I was thinking a horizontal slot near the top of the roll bar might be the thing. Somewhere you could latch the canopy securely open a few inches, almost as far as having the latch resting on top of the roll bar. You'd probably need a reinforcing plate, maybe .063 or even .125. Just an idea at this point, like I said I haven't even looked at mine to see if it would work. If it would, it seems like it would be a relatively easy retrofit with a Dremel and a few blind rivets.

I'd prefer something like that over any solution requiring an additional step that could be forgotten.

Dale, the slot is an option that has been discussed and implemented on tip-ups over the years. It reduces air flow a bit but does secure the canopy in windy conditions.
 
Any details on structural modifications for a slot? Sounds like a good solution since air flow is critical here in the heat especially when you have to wait for the oil to warm up.
 
I did a modification on my 7A tip up that moved the struts off of the sill and down to the side wall of the fuselage just a bit forward of the instrument panel. The mod involves idler arms. It was designd by a friend who is a double amputee with a 9a who needed the sill to be clear to swing into the seat. He insisted on a keeper cord that went between the canopy handle and some solid structural piece to prevent wind from catching the canopy and failing the struts. His observation was that we were trading clean access, no forward pressure in the closed position, positive over-center closing and a bit more opening with the downside of weaker resistance to wind gusts than Vans' design for the 7. My keeper cord is simply para cord from the handle to the longitudinal structure between the roll bar and baggage bulkhead. There is space between the structure and the rear window to lace the cord around. I'm sure there can be a more elegant solution but this has worked well for me so far, although I have never had it really tested.
 
The exact same thing happened to me on Saturday during run up, but my guardian angel was working overtime because the strut rod ends didn't break, so there was no damage. I routinely put a 1" wood block under the canopy edge when I taxi and run up for ventilation, and this was the first time in over four years of operation that this has happened. I was facing into a 7 knot wind when it happened.
 
I've seen a design out there consisting of basically a plastic block with a slot cut out of it mounted to the roll bar. The roll bar latch slides in the slot to prevent the canopy from catching the wind. Anyone heard of or seen this mod?
 
I had been routinely doing the run-up with the canopy latch propping open the canopy. As Rich noted, facing into a 15 knot wind, I pushed the power up and the canopy started up. I grabbed it, pulling it down as I came off the power.

I suspect that, into the wind, the canopy would not have gone to the stops.

In the video, there was a lot of cross-wind (or so it appears). It appears that the canopy came up as the power increased to taxi. Perhaps that was the difference between his event and mine.

A lanyard may be a good idea, but one would have to consider the ease of egress in an emergency.

For now, I just close the canopy for the run up. I can re-open the canopy if I have to wait at the hold-short line.
 
How about a welded on long tab, easy to implement and works without thinking. Also a shortened version could fit into a slot in the roll bar. But, a long tab might seem in the way of rear access when the canopy is shut. Also it might be a head bump hazard. I don't know, never been in a 12 or even been up close. Just throwing a simple idea into the mix for fun.
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I like the idea of adding a slot to the top of the roll bar for the handle tab when canopy is raised for ground operations. Sounds like positive method to keep canopy restrained and still allow needed additional ventilation on hot days. I searched the RV-12 ELSA Modifications Thread to no avail thinking that someone may have documented this. I?ll go out to the plane tomorrow and consider a design for a Delrin or aluminum block that can be added to top side of roll bar.

?Napkin? sketch below?

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That's not a bad idea, Jim... if it works out I may have to actually use a couple of screws when I put the new rear window in (planning to use Sika). It could be made pretty low profile.
 
Update to my post #27 above... I went out to the plane today and looked at feasibility of adding "U" shaped block on top of roll bar to secure the tab extension on the handle. What I discovered is that the canopy plexiglass extends to middle of the roll bar. I suspect the plexiglass could be notched back so the "U" block could sit flush with the front of the roll bar but I'm not sure I want to make this modification. For now I'll use a bungee cord between the handle and the seat back rest.
 
I intend to weld a short horizontal tab to the bottom of the "handle", and cut a small slit in the top of the roll bar for it to go into. Nothing to bump your head or a bag onto, and will give even more fresh air.
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How about a welded on long tab, easy to implement and works without thinking. Also a shortened version could fit into a slot in the roll bar. But, a long tab might seem in the way of rear access when the canopy is shut. Also it might be a head bump hazard. I don't know, never been in a 12 or even been up close. Just throwing a simple idea into the mix for fun.
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While waiting on the official fix

...I hope this will suffice. Bought a $5 box of bungees from Aviation Dept at Home Depot, selected one which when wrapped around itself on the seatback crossbrace hooked into canopy handle with moderate tension.
Tiewrapped it to crossbrace. Dern thing lays right up against passenger seat back when not in use and is kind of hard to miss, being bright orange.
Added "canopy bungee" to pre-start checklist.

This time when the fix-kit comes from Vans, un-doing my fix will only take about 30 seconds.

That video is scary.


Jim
RV-12 #264
flying 400+ hours
 
...I hope this will suffice. Bought a $5 box of bungees from Aviation Dept at Home Depot, selected one which when wrapped around itself on the seatback crossbrace hooked into canopy handle with moderate tension.
Tiewrapped it to crossbrace. Dern thing lays right up against passenger seat back when not in use and is kind of hard to miss, being bright orange.
Added "canopy bungee" to pre-start checklist.

This time when the fix-kit comes from Vans, un-doing my fix will only take about 30 seconds.

That video is scary.


Jim
RV-12 #264
flying 400+ hours

Good idea, and easy/economical. I had thought the same thing about using a bungee.

I have a personal rule to always close and lock the canopy at the run-up area and I'm going to use the bungee if I open the canopy a crack whilst taxiing on a hot day.
 
Sitting in the plane today, I came up with this idea to keep the canopy from opening. Have not actually made it yet. Bend an 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar and fasten one end of it to the forward side of the roll bar so that the other end extends 1" past center. When the canopy is in the ventilation position, the aluminum bar will be inside of the handle loop, preventing the canopy from opening further. There is no extra step for the pilot to forget. Vinyl caps are available to fit the bar.
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Sitting in the plane today, I came up with this idea to keep the canopy from opening. Have not actually made it yet. Bend an 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar and fasten one end of it to the forward side of the roll bar so that the other end extends 1" past center. When the canopy is in the ventilation position, the aluminum bar will be inside of the handle loop, preventing the canopy from opening further. There is no extra step for the pilot to forget.
Nice. If that works it could be the most elegant solution yet. Can't wait to get to the hangar and have a look to see how these ideas look "in person".
 
This is solution 101 based upon Mich48041's concept. I found that his idea needed modified since the socket for the handle in the canopy front would hit his angle. Solution is to curve the bracket to miss the socket and provide a "catch pocket" for the handle. I just drilled out the top three rivets left of the rollbar seam and used 3, 4-6 pulled rivets for a first install. If satisfied I may replace with larger structural rivets or thread for bolts. I just modified a curtain rod support bracket for this. Seems to work well. Hopefully this pictures will explain it all.





 
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FYI all,
Received this email from the mothership this afternoon...I don't see this or the updates mentioned on the support page yet. I'm sure it will follow soon.

TO ALL RV-12 BUILDERS AT FINISH KIT STAGE OR BEYOND

Van's Aircraft has revised the design of the RV-12 canopy installation for increased durability using all steel gas struts.
If desired, order "12 Canopy Gas Strut Kit" and install it on your airplane using the latest revision of RV-12 Section 34: Canopy Installation, available from the Van's Aircraft website.
This is not a mandatory change – old parts may continue to be used.


Van's Aircraft has updated the RV-12 Plans Pages with minor changes to the following sections:

SECTION 34 PAGES 01, 02, 03 and 15.

Download the latest version of these pages from the Van's Aircraft website and note the changes documented for each individual page if you choose to convert to the upgraded struts.


Be advised that Plans page updates have been posted to our website. Please visit www.vansaircraft.com, click on Support, then Service Information and Revisions or go directly to the revisions section using this link:

http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/service-rv12.htm


Van's Aircraft, Inc.
14401 Keil Rd NE
Aurora, Oregon 97002
503.678.6545
 
I should add that I plan to add a restraint based on one or more of the excellent designs discussed above. No reason to "test" the new struts unnecessarily!
 
Just copied the kit name and pasted it on the mothership website order search with no bueno. Come on guys, get it together!

I plan on coming up with my own solution to back up the mothership change.
 
Scott -

I like your fix. I'm currently using a bungee cord since this problem came to light. I'll copy your design only make from aluminum. Elegant solution, good pics...
 
Flew with the safety catch today. You quickly get the feel to engage and disengage the catch about like fully latching the canopy. Tested with a full runup and it works great but I still plan to fully latch for the short runup time before takeoff just in case during taxi there are any latch position movements. From scratch I would probably use aluminum and rather than a slot, match drill for the three rivets but hey, the bracket was in my junk box needing only minor modifications. Will paint to match roll bar and probably round corners more and dip in PlastiCoat to protect the handle power coat.
 
A revised all steel gas strut has been developed for the RV-12 canopy installation to increased durability. The new struts replace the plastic ends of the original strut with a robust steel end fitting welded to the ends of the struts.

Testing done during development has shown that the aircraft structure will begin to yield before the new strut design fails. In short, the struts will not be a failure point, allowing the canopy to open further than designed. However, we make no guarantee that a 737 taxing by an open canopy will not be an issue!

New bushings and hardware are required to mount the new struts.

If desired, order "12 Canopy Gas Strut Kit" and install it on your airplane using the latest revision of RV-12 Section 34: Canopy Installation, available from the Van's Aircraft website: http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/service-rv12.htm

BTW, the kit is now available via a search in the web store.
 
RV12 Canopy Strut

My 12 finish kit is on order scheduled to arrive in August. Are the new struts included or will these only be available as an upgrade?
 
Denny, can't answer your question directly, but today I talked to the mothership and was told they will probably back order my struts because they only received. A few sets.

BTW the kit is about $50 for new struts.

Rich
 
My 12 finish kit is on order scheduled to arrive in August. Are the new struts included or will these only be available as an upgrade?

I think the original e-mail notification said that it applied to any one with a flying airplane or that had already received a finish kit, so I believe the intent is that all future kits will receive the updated struts.
 
O NO! did anyone get hurt, that could have been real bad! So sorry for this person, so much work goes into these things. is this considered a required prop strike teardown or does this not apply to Rotax?

This definitely requires a prop strike inspection, but because of the gearbox on the Rotax the inspection is different than on a Lycoming. I think it just needs a gearbox tear down.
 
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