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New Plexi glass rear window

08FATBOY

Member
I just received the new molded Plexi glass rear window. I installed the kit window , drilled and tapped the rollover structure. My question is where to start since the new window is not predrilled and i'm concerned about the tapped threads?


Rod ELSA#120162
 
I just received the new molded Plexi glass rear window. I installed the kit window , drilled and tapped the rollover structure. My question is where to start since the new window is not predrilled and i'm concerned about the tapped threads?


Rod ELSA#120162

I just finished my install (of the replacement plexi).....I recommend trial fitting side to side, then to rear (I had to shave a little in the center rear where the overhead butts into the bulkhead). Have someone help push the rear of the plexi window tightly to skin while you dril from center rear to sides attach holes (cecoing as you go); then...starting .from top center to each side use a #40 drill bit to drill plexi where you previously drilled roll bar holes, again cecoing as you go... Then, with plexi off....open holes with #27 drill bit.

Not really that difficult....
 
Where' you get it? I found some old posts mentioning Carl Eldridge, but the email address was no good and Google hasn't been any help.
 
Thanks Ric. I'll start as soon as the weather warms. I called Vans to order, on packing slip part #F-1277B, cost $390.00 plus $10.00 crating charge and $77.00 ground freight to Ohio.
 
Thanks Ric. I'll start as soon as the weather warms. I called Vans to order, on packing slip part #F-1277B, cost $390.00 plus $10.00 crating charge and $77.00 ground freight to Ohio.

Strange, I ordered a new window about 4 months back from Vans, $189 and pre drilled.
 
08FATBOY -

I live right down the street from you (Hinckley). I sent you PM and also email thru VAF Forum. Maybe your email address is incorrect in your profile.

I'm at [email protected]
 
The new is form molded plexiglass. Old is lexan.

Just curious if the molded window is drape formed Lexan (Makrolon) vs Acrylic/Plexiglas mentioned. The structural integrity difference was debated a couple of years ago, just wondering if Van's changed their view on the material properties for the window. There was also some discussion on molded Lexan being less susceptible to crazing than cold formed bends.

John Salak
RV-12 120116
N896HS
 
Just ordered the new window: $390 and they don't allow returns with credit for the old lexan window. If anyone needs my new, untouched lexan window, I've got a deal for you.

Jerre
 
Is Vans saying this is the fix to prevent crazing from fuel spills? If not I'll just buy a sheet of lexan at Home Depot to replace mine.
 
...the never-ending debate #235 ! :)

If you haven't seen previous threads on this, just a reminder that if you seal the edges and drilled holes, you reduce the fuel crazing hazard.
To reduce further, you can apply a clear laminate to the lexan; since you don't look thru it, a less than perfect job shouldn't be an issue. If you aren't comfortable doing it, a window tint place might be an option.

3m #8991 polyester anti-graffiti film is one product I've used on flat lexan bus shelter cabinet faces.....it's nearly indestructible!
( not to be confused with painter's tape with the same number!)
tech data: and yes, it says 3 years outdoor, but I have seen NO yellowing after 5+ in the sun. It also cautions of installing over lexan as bubbles can form underneath from outgassing of the moisture in polycarbonate sheet, but it beats crazing and failure!

https://s3.amazonaws.com/fellers/production/documents/3m-8991-product-data-bulletin-1146.pdf

one source;
https://www.fellers.com/fellers-sho...cotchgard-graphic-and-surface-protection-film
 
Looking back at the history of the lexan window I love how we have come full circle on this subject matter.:D
 
Me too! I have the earlier molded tinted one as well as the Vans one, think the tinted one will go on the plane.
Looking back at the history of the lexan window I love how we have come full circle on this subject matter.:D
 
Just got the email offering the new rear window. Only $390 more in the finish kit. No returns for credit of the old one in the fuselage kit. But, now I have a backup in case I mess up the new one.:D
 
It's a change in the kits. I'm just one of the lucky ones caught in the transition.
From the mothership:

"The RV-12 Finish kits are going through a change due to the Rear
Window F-1277A found inside the RV-12 Fuselage kit. F-1277A Rear Window is now obsolete and the replacement part# F-1277B Plexi formed rear window is inside the RV-12 Finish kit.
If you have F-1277A Rear window from your fuselage kit, you may
choose to keep it and delete part# F-1277B from your Finish kit and keep the same price of $10180.00 for your kit. Or you can upgrade and your Finish Kit will be $390 more ($10570). *Note we are not excepting any returns of Part#F-1277A."

Came by email after I ordered the Finish kit.
 
Don't fuss about sealing the edges

The edges aren't the problem in my experience. Filling recently on a windy day and a gust splashed unleaded onto the window - instant crazing and cracking. Could track where each drop of fuel had landed. Seem to recall a minor splash of avgas earlier which did no harm but it was much hotter when the unleaded did its stuff - not sure whether heat was the difference or the different fuel.

Have a new sheet of Lexan purchased loacally and will apply a fuel resistant film. Using Xpel but there are others.

Jack
 
why would sealing help?

just a reminder that if you seal the edges and drilled holes, you reduce the fuel crazing hazard.

I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes? :confused:

I am asking, because I am debating whether I should order the new Plexi window or stick with the one I received in my kit. I will soon have reached that step to install that window and I better do it only once, but then I do it right.
$390 plus shipping to Europe is then another question.

Thank you for enlightening me on that.:)
 
I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes? :confused:
Some types of polycarbonate sheet have a coating or film on the surface to protect against abrasion and things like gasoline. If the RV-12 rear window is that type (I have heard that it is, but I don't know for certain) than it would be more susceptible to crazing at the edges and holes.

I'm looking at my options now for a replacement window. I like the idea of formed acrylic, but not the cost. I need to go get some measurements and talk to my local plastic supplier to see what they have.
 
Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?
Correct
I advise to install the window that you have and try not to spill or splash fuel on it. If it becomes crazed or cracked, then replace it. It is not hard to replace unless it is glued in.
 
Thank you for the info and your advise. I will then install the window I have.
.....and will never let the line boy refuel my bird.
 
Correct
I advise to install the window that you have and try not to spill or splash fuel on it. If it becomes crazed or cracked, then replace it. It is not hard to replace unless it is glued in.

Joe,


My SLSA rear panel is bolted on and appears to have glue/sealant also. Is this what you're referring to when you infer it might be harder to replace?

Now that I'm aware of the crazing issue I'm thinking of replacing the rear panel with another Lexan (I'll have to check with Vans as I have an SLSA). If I do do you have any tips regarding removing the old glue/sealant?

If installing a new one would you just bolt it in rather than use any adhesive?

Thanks!
 
Which type of Xpel

The film used on car bonnets to protect against stone damage etc. It was recommended by one of their retailers. He didn't give me a code or put one on the invoice. I tried to get a 3M product, used by another Oz RV12er, from a different installer but was advised against. He recommended Xpel (although he doesn't sell it) - said it was better quality and clearer, and fuel resistant. I'll let you know how it works out. Hope to fit the new window next week.

Jack
 
My SLSA rear panel is bolted on and appears to have glue/sealant also. Is this what you're referring to when you infer it might be harder to replace?
Yes, if the window is sealed in place with fuel tank sealant, then it will be harder to remove. The plans did not call for using sealant when I built my plane 5 years ago. I have removed my rear window once and put the same one back in without a problem. (At least it was not any harder than installing it the first time.) Polycarbonate is strong and resists bending.
Now that I'm aware of the crazing issue I'm thinking of replacing the rear panel with another Lexan
Why?
If I do do you have any tips regarding removing the old glue/sealant?
No, but it should be similar to removing the top of the fuel tank with a putty knife.
If installing a new one would you just bolt it in rather than use any adhesive?
I would follow Van's latest plans. If sealant is not used, the window will be easier to replace. However, it might not be necessary to replace the window if it is protected from gasoline by sealant.
 
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My first crazing occurred no where near the edge. I will replace the rear window during my 5th annual in 2017. I'll try the formed plex version then. Hopefully there will be some operating experience available then to determine if it's worth it.

Rich
 
The film used on car bonnets to protect against stone damage etc. It was recommended by one of their retailers. He didn't give me a code or put one on the invoice. I tried to get a 3M product, used by another Oz RV12er, from a different installer but was advised against. He recommended Xpel (although he doesn't sell it) - said it was better quality and clearer, and fuel resistant. I'll let you know how it works out. Hope to fit the new window next week.

Jack
Where are you sourcing your Xpel from? Somewhere in Melbourne (Australia)?
John
 
I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes? :confused:

I am asking, because I am debating whether I should order the new Plexi window or stick with the one I received in my kit. I will soon have reached that step to install that window and I better do it only once, but then I do it right.
$390 plus shipping to Europe is then another question.

Thank you for enlightening me on that.:)

The crazing is NOT related fuel. I have seen crazing on the front edge of the lexan mid-way between holes. I have also seen crazing/cracks emanating close to screw holes that I know with 100% certainty were never exposed to fuel.

The flat lexan is under a lot of stress. I believe the cracks and crazing are stress induced. If I had the option of the plexiglass window when I built my -12, I would have paid the extra money.
 
Acrylic plastic drilling

I asked Van's if they sold #27 Plexi/Acrylic drill as called out in plans, answer was no, just go to venders..which I did and no one sells a number 27 plastic/acrylic drill...why would they call out use of something no one sells??
 
The crazing is NOT related fuel. I have seen crazing on the front edge of the lexan mid-way between holes. I have also seen crazing/cracks emanating close to screw holes that I know with 100% certainty were never exposed to fuel.

A more correct statement would be The crazing is not only fuel related .

Heavy fuel exposure can most certainly cause instantaneous crazing as a number of RV-12 owners have experienced. If not, the release of plans revision recommending a very specific process to seal teh window, would not have happened.
 
I asked Van's if they sold #27 Plexi/Acrylic drill as called out in plans, answer was no, just go to venders..which I did and no one sells a number 27 plastic/acrylic drill...why would they call out use of something no one sells??

One option is to just Make your own

There is lots of other helpful info by doing a web search on Plexi drill bits and drilling plexi
 
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