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T-405 Fabrication

JDA_BTR

Well Known Member
Is a scroll saw the best way to fabricate the curves on this piece? My band saw complained bitterly about the side cut. Or do I drill a bunch of 30 holes and buff to shape?
 
T-405 fabrication

If the T-405 on the RV-8 is like the one on the RV-7 (tank attach bracket) I used the dremel to make a rough cut then the scotchbrite wheel to shape it.

Doug
RV-7
 
Band saw blade

I have a 7TPI 1/4 bandsaw blade for thick material. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. It does leave tooling marks so cut outside the line and sand to the final shape.
 
Similar

I used a jigsaw to make the rough cuts, then like the other responses above, buffed it on the scotchbrite wheel to the right shape. I've also found a reciprocating saw with a fine pitch blade & lots of boelube cuts the aluminium sections fairly easily & cleanly.
 
I used a combination of 30 drill, band saw and buffer to shape the piece. I have it at the width shown exactly and a very good match on the symmetric 2.5 inch side.

I?m working to get the contour of the tank rib correct and finding a little trouble getting the piece right. If I read the plans correctly the outside of the angLe is 2 inches from the tip on the outside of the tank. Thus the contour has to be relieved to make room for rivet heads and the rib thickness at the top flanges.

It seems when I do that and still try to keep the width 3-3/4 with the outside of the flange at 2 inches there will not be a fit for the width.

Or am I reading it wrong? What are the critical dimensions?
 
I cut mine with a scroll saw with a fine-toothed metal blade. They were so frustrating to make this way, that I got a band saw the next day. SOO much better now with a sharp Lenox blade.
 
As others have mentioned - band saw with a fine-toothed blade. Rough cut outside of the final size, remove tooling marks and fine-tune the shape with a vixen file, then final smooth the edges with a scotchbrite wheel:

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I did one all bandsaw for the rough cut. The second one I drilled #30 holes around the edge then let the band saw separate the piece. This worked very well
 
In 1993 when I started my RV4 there were a lot of parts that had to be fabricated from heavy angle. I did not have a bandsaw for that project. A good hack saw with the proper blade cuts a lot faster then you might think. A guality set of coarse files with a large radius are used for inside corners. A good vise is essential, as the part needs to held securely
This is likely the only part that you have to make on the RV14. Consider old school tools.
 
I used a hacksaw to make the rough cuts, then a file to get the basic curves right, followed by 400 grit sandpaper/scotchbrite wheel. Took about 45 mins per side - don't overthink it!
 
I used a hacksaw to make the rough cuts, then a file to get the basic curves right, followed by 400 grit sandpaper/scotchbrite wheel. Took about 45 mins per side - don't overthink it!

This is how I did it on my 9A but used 120- and 240-grit paper. Took about the same amount of time and came out fine.
 
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