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Winter Warmth...

Piper J3

Well Known Member
A simple way to block cold air from the baggage compartment...
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I've been pleasantly surprised. It hasn't been that cold here yet....+20F has been about it...but my -9A has been surprisingly toasty. Only air intrusion I can feel has been through the cursor knobs on my 430W.
 
Take some of that foam, cut it into triangular pieces, and shove a piece into every end of the corrugations in the aft baggage area bulkhead.
 
Take some of that foam, cut it into triangular pieces, and shove a piece into every end of the corrugations in the aft baggage area bulkhead.

I did that Bob, No joy. Closed cell foam too.

Also sealed the main spar hole.

I still get that draft up my arm pit. Either foam or a small blanket stuffed in the gaps has been working. Where the heck does that air come from? It is hard to fly and chase drafts.
 
I did that Bob, No joy. Closed cell foam too.

Also sealed the main spar hole.

I still get that draft up my arm pit. Either foam or a small blanket stuffed in the gaps has been working. Where the heck does that air come from? It is hard to fly and chase drafts.

You need more effort in the spar area. The internal wing area is high pressure, or at least higher than the cabin. I used silicone to seal all air gaps around the spar (there were many surrounding the spar protrusion) and gear leg area (A model). My only drafts are from behind the passenger (slight tip up seal leak and flap rod protrusion). I have none in the crotch area or sides.

Larry
 
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You need more effort in the spar area. The internal wing area is high pressure, or at least higher than the cabin. I used silicone to seal all air gaps around the spar (there were many surrounding the spar protrusion) and gear leg area (A model). My only drafts are from behind the passenger (slight tip up seal leak and flap rod protrusion). I have none in the crotch area or sides.

Larry

The spar area is sealed well, and aileron boots, and the bulkhead wall.

No gear legs in the cabin.

No drafts in the footwell, or up the stick boot or around anywhere front of the spar,

But. not the flap rod.

Mine drafts are all from the baggage compartment like the OP. Especially up between the fuse and seat rail. If that is stuffed, it is pretty warm down to -10F or so. Maybe more, I don't have much time under -10F. Open cell foam just passed it through.

Mixture, makes a huge difference but I have a knob for that;)
 
Cold air barrier



I used foam core board cut to fit just ahead of the spars up to the cross over bar behind the seat. A dose of fire retardant and the cabin is shirt sleeve warm down to 25F.
 
Stopping air from entering is only part of the battle; if it's coming in that means it's also being sucked out somewhere. Applying the weather strip kit to the canopy helps enormously in that department - that's the only major change I've made so far for controlling air and am quite comfortable flying in the winter. The bender baffle mod is also very important.

Two years ago I flew CA->WI for the holidays and was perfectly comfortable the whole way with this setup.
 
THANKS - - - - -

My invention of the "Heater Damper Door" is the best thing for winter comfort. A seal kit around the front canopy is needed, and the clear vinyl divider behind the seats was the last piece needed to make my plane comfortable in cold weather. We usually do not fly if below 25 degrees, but can.
 
Great invention, John, thank you. I had to make the baffle twice. CHTs need to be up around 100 C to get real warmth, and that requires very little gap. My first attempt looked like it should block nearly all the blast but I couldn’t get the CHTs much above 80 - 90. Had to make it a tighter fit.

Jack
 
THANKS ! - -

By also slowing the air flow thru the radiator ( heater ), it allows the air to heat more. Doesn't hurt the engine, and really makes winter flying enjoyable. I designed the oil therm setup also. That keeps the engine oil warm. Overall makes the plane an all season plane.
 
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