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Need Static System Advice

Reaver

Well Known Member
Patron
I am not the builder. The connection to one of the static ports fell off. The line appears to be 1/8" OD, coupled (heat shrunk?) to the more standard 1/4" OD line. I don't think the fitting is the Van's standard part, because it does not appear to be barbed. Images of both the disconnected line (in the empanage) and the exterior port are below.

Does anyone know what this setup is? I'm debating fixing it or just installing the Vans static ports and running "normal" plumbing. Either way, I will be fixing the fact that the static line doesn't go "up" before going down.

IMG-2107.jpg

IMG-2109.jpg
 
Those are Vans standard ports, just a pop-rivet with the center punched out. Super basic, but they work and are accurate. I used the pop rivet, but attached one of the fuel tank drain flanges on the inside (bonded with pro-seal, mine is riveted as well, but that is not necessary). That provided a 1/8 NPT female fitting rather than trying to get a hose on the rivet tail. I think it is part number VA-112, could easily make one as well if you have a lathe and 1/8NPT tap.

FP22062012A0003T.jpg


FP14042012A0004F.jpg


FP14042012A0004I.jpg
 
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As mentioned above, the standard VANS ports works and it is accurate but in my opinion not as reliable of a connection.

A much more reliable and just as accurate since it has the same shape of VANS port, is the Cleveland static ports. They use a standard 1/4" push-on type connector which is super reliable.
I can't view your picture but if you can easily pull the ports, installing the Cleveland static port is very easy.

Hope this helps.
 
Ok thank you both for the insight! I can't tell if the one that I already have has been prosealed/bonded in place, so I am apprehensive about trying to remove it. Do you think it's better to add the fitting like Colin (WingsOnWheels) said, drill it out for replacement hoping I don't just make an extra hole in the skin, or plug this one and cut a hole for a new static port like the Cleaveland one?
 
Either will get the job done. Less risk of messing up your paint with the flange method. Have you verified the accuracy of the current pitot-static system (done some GPS triangles)?
 
Ok thank you both for the insight! I can't tell if the one that I already have has been prosealed/bonded in place, so I am apprehensive about trying to remove it. Do you think it's better to add the fitting like Colin (WingsOnWheels) said, drill it out for replacement hoping I don't just make an extra hole in the skin, or plug this one and cut a hole for a new static port like the Cleaveland one?

If indeed is a pop rivet type which is very easy to identify, it would be very easy to remove even if it is prosealed. The Cleveland static port requires a .5" hole where as the pop rivet is a 1/8" hole in the skin. Once you remove the existing static port, use a unibit to enlarge it to the correct size for the Cleveland port and simply either use proseal or red RTV to glue it in place. I have done multiple using red RTV with great success and no issues after 10 years.

Just keep in mind that the static port location is important as well as the shape of the port. In my first RV, I used a flush static port and had a good amount of error in my IAS. I then changed it to rivet type and eventually to Cleveland type with a great accuracy. My current RV has the Cleveland type and I have verified the accuracy of my speed to a fraction of a knot using a 3-way GPS method.
 
Why not get a new short piece of Tygon (PVC) tubing to replace the stiffened one you have and just slip it back over the pop rivet you have in place (as per the plans). Maybe a little RTV if you are concerned about it leaking/loosening in the future.

If it?s ain?t broke ....

Peter
 
...A much more reliable and just as accurate since it has the same shape of VANS port, is the Cleveland static ports. They use a standard 1/4" push-on type connector which is super reliable...

^^^This


https://youtu.be/6duzMKyRkMw


@Reaver, I think I'd look to see how the old static port is installed. If its bonded in place, can you maybe use some unwaxed dental floss to "saw" through the sealant and pull it out? From your 1st picture, it looks like some sort of pull rivet installation. Does that look like it can be drilled out?

If you go with the Cleveland static port, you're gonna make a 1/2" hole there anyway. So, that at least gives you a little room to make ugly before you clean it up with the unibit.
 
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One option would be to abandon the existing port and install a new port. Van actually had 2 approved location for the static ports, 1 OR 2 bulkheads aft of baggage compartment. I have used both locations and they perform well.
 
I would go with the $30 Vans Static Port Kit. Their ports have the same profile as the rivet, are secured with a nut and lock washer on the inside and have a barbed 1/4" tubing connection. Search Static Port in the Vans store. It also shows the tubing layout.

I think it is an easy replacement for your existing Vans rivet port. Just drill out the current rivet, enlarge the hole for the new port and route the new tubing. Other than the journey into the belly of the beast to do the work, should be quick and simple.
 
I would go with the $30 Vans Static Port Kit. Their ports have the same profile as the rivet, are secured with a nut and lock washer on the inside and have a barbed 1/4" tubing connection. Search Static Port in the Vans store. It also shows the tubing layout.

I think it is an easy replacement for your existing Vans rivet port. Just drill out the current rivet, enlarge the hole for the new port and route the new tubing. Other than the journey into the belly of the beast to do the work, should be quick and simple.

I recently did exactly that and I?m very happy with the outcome. It?s an easy, neat, robust and leak free upgrade that I suspect many owners of older RV?s will need to do.
 
I would go with the $30 Vans Static Port Kit. Their ports have the same profile as the rivet, are secured with a nut and lock washer on the inside and have a barbed 1/4" tubing connection. Search Static Port in the Vans store. It also shows the tubing layout.

I think it is an easy replacement for your existing Vans rivet port. Just drill out the current rivet, enlarge the hole for the new port and route the new tubing. Other than the journey into the belly of the beast to do the work, should be quick and simple.

I called Vans this morning to ask about the 1/8? vs 1/4? and they said the static port kit on their site still uses 1/8?. So instead I ordered the flange and Cleveland ports as previously recommended here, and will see which arrives first. It sounds like either should work. Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
I called Vans this morning to ask about the 1/8? vs 1/4? and they said the static port kit on their site still uses 1/8?. So instead I ordered the flange and Cleveland ports as previously recommended here, and will see which arrives first. It sounds like either should work. Thanks everyone for the advice!

That's interesting. Below is the quote from the Vans site.

"Static Ports
These static ports have been designed to replicate the shape of the SD-42-BSLF rivet tradionally used and supplied in the STATIC KIT.

They attach with a jam nut and lockwasher and have a barbed end to fit standard 1/4" tubing. 6061-T6 clear anodized aluminum, complete with installation hardware and instructions."

Wonder which is correct. The site description or the information you received. I suspect the person you spoke to may be confused since they also sell a Static Kit which uses the rivet. It would use the 1/8" tubing. The better ports are in the Static Port Kit which are pictured in the Store.
 
I am not the builder. The connection to one of the static ports fell off. The line appears to be 1/8" OD, coupled (heat shrunk?) to the more standard 1/4" OD line. I don't think the fitting is the Van's standard part, because it does not appear to be barbed. Images of both the disconnected line (in the empanage) and the exterior port are below.

Does anyone know what this setup is? I'm debating fixing it or just installing the Vans static ports and running "normal" plumbing. Either way, I will be fixing the fact that the static line doesn't go "up" before going down.

IMG-2107.jpg

IMG-2109.jpg

I noticed the connections in the picture have the right side approaching
the T from the top and the left side from the side...the line carrying static pressure to the instruments is on the bottom.

The instructions for van's pop rivet static ports show the left static port attaching to the bottom of the T, with a little bit of a loop and some slack, and the main line connecting to the 90 degree leg of the tee facing forward. It seems that a little strain relief would go a long way along with some rtv and this problem should be fixed for good.
 
I never saw this post 10 months ago, but thought I would comment now to point out this is probably one of the reasons why the standard/simple static ports get a bad rap regarding being unreliable. These were clearly not installed per the instructions. If they had been it would not have come apart.
 
Also if the T is directly opposite or lower than the port any water that enters has a chance at draining to the bottom tube and causing errors. If you locate the T higher than the Port, water will naturally drain out.
 
This is an old post and it was fixed last summer. I ended up buying two drain flanges (Vans part number VA-112) and prosealing them around the existing static ports as a way to not modify what had been working, but get a nice NPT fitting that was easy to plumb (correctly this time, going up first with a T junction at the top) into the existing system. Worked great and no issues since!
 
This is an old post and it was fixed last summer. I ended up buying two drain flanges (Vans part number VA-112) and prosealing them around the existing static ports as a way to not modify what had been working, but get a nice NPT fitting that was easy to plumb (correctly this time, going up first with a T junction at the top) into the existing system. Worked great and no issues since!

Glad you found an easy fix, but my point was to help newer builders to know that it failed in the first place because it wasn't installed per the static system plans (I know you weren't the original builder).

The "tee" is supposed to be above the left port, and tied off to the bulkhead with a short piece of tubing curving upward to it to prevent water entry into the system. There is also supposed to be a fillet of sealant round the outside of the of the tubing where it contacts the outer skin.

If installed per the instructions, the tubes stay attached to the ports (rivets) and the system works quite well.
 
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