What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Alternate Air and Cabin Heat cabling

Berchmans

Well Known Member
I am trying to figure out a good way to route and mount the push/pull cables for the alternate air source and cabin heat. I do not want to run them through the cargo area behind the firewall. Any suggestions on routing? I am going with a XIO360 M1B if that has any affect.
 
Cabin Heat

Burke,

A picture is worth a thousand words. Sorry I have no pic for you, so I'll keep the description to a minimum.

I mounted my cabin heat push-pull cable low on the aft face of my right gear tower. The cable makes an "S" turn inside the gear tower and exits the forward face of the right gear tower through the pre-punched hole at the bottom, passes low through the deep portion of the baggage hold and then through the firewall via a SafeAir pass-through, located low and near the lower right engine mount. This is the same route my alternator and starter cable and a few miscellaneous electrical wires travel to the engine side of the firewall. The push-pull cable is covered with a rubber tube to avoid chaffing anything else on the way through. The cable seems to work smoothly. I chose this route to avoid another firewall penetration.

I plan a simple shield in that portion of the baggage compartment to protect various wires, although flexible conduit would work as well. It is very low and far right in the compartment and should not interfere with future use.

As for the alternate induction air, I am using a simple spring/lever assembly and have no need for a cable.

Wow, a little over 200 words.....

Don
 
Pretty much did the same thing as Don for my cabin heat cable. For the alternate air I ran the push pull cable through the top of the left gear tower then through the firewall and forward to the snorkel. Snorkel required a great deal of modification to fit IO-360 M1S.


img1008tj.jpg



Good luck!

Dave Casey
RV-8 QB
LyCon IO360 M1S, 10" Skyview, D10A EFIS, D10 EMS, Garmin GTN 650
 
One way....

I am trying to figure out a good way to route and mount the push/pull cables for the alternate air source and cabin heat. I do not want to run them through the cargo area behind the firewall. Any suggestions on routing? I am going with a XIO360 M1B if that has any affect.
Not much to the FAB routing. Neither cable runs through the baggage/cargo compartment. Because of the placement I chose, the cable from the knob in the cockpit to the FAB is a fairly straight run. I did add a bit of extra length to the angle on the corner of the rear baffle to support the cable.

bedi5y.jpg
 
Cable routing

Don, Dave, Rick...thanks for the comments. Rick, I have run my push/pulls similar to yours but I place both a little lower on the gear tower than yours. I simply could not work my hand into the gear tower in such a manner that I could get the lock nut on if I mounted the alternate air in the same location as you show...I will add some pics once I get the it all tightened down...sometimes I feel like a contortionist after a sesson the the plane.
 
Not much to the FAB routing. Neither cable runs through the baggage/cargo compartment. Because of the placement I chose, the cable from the knob in the cockpit to the FAB is a fairly straight run. I did add a bit of extra length to the angle on the corner of the rear baffle to support the cable.

bedi5y.jpg

As an aside note in the picture, having an adel clamed to a B-nut, is like putting a wrench on it. Having another adel attached to it with a cable is like having a wrench with force trying to work it loose. This is not a good practice.
 
As an aside note in the picture, having an adel clamed to a B-nut, is like putting a wrench on it. Having another adel attached to it with a cable is like having a wrench with force trying to work it loose. This is not a good practice.
I tend to agree with your opinion and knew when I posted the image that sooner or later someone was bound to comment. Fact is, I puzzled over the issue. The goal was to have the cable approach the door as straight as possible and be supported near the end of its run. With the XIO-360 M1B, I could not figure out how to meet that goal in an elegant manner so I opted for the arrangement I did.
 
You could put a tab on that intake flange bolt right there or tab down from the rocker head somewhere.
 
Rick,
How about an adel clamp on the adjacent intake tube?
Or will that interfere with the spark plug?
Jon
 
You could put a tab on that intake flange bolt right there or tab down from the rocker head somewhere.
Good idea! It never occured to me to tie in to the intake flange bolt with a piece of angle stock and then attach the adel clamp to it. It would be positioned a little bit farther aft than the current set-up but shouldn't be much of a problem. Anyone see a downside to that plan?

zirci0.jpg
 
Rick,
Of course on the other hand, if this arrangement has given you good service thus far, the only problem I can foresee is a possible slight loosening of the oil return fitting. This might result in an oil seep, that could be corrected when it is discovered, if in fact it ever happens. I realize it might be "bad form" to use it the way it is, but the "B nut" is essentially captured is it not? Sometimes, SOMETIMES, if it ain't broke DFW it!
 
Rick, like Jon says I guess its really no big thing. After posting I thought again and if one wanted to go really deluxe you could make a "U" tab with a saddle and pick up both intake bolts. Either way you need like bolt, tab, spacer, intake flange.
 
Push Pull Cable runs

Here is how I ran the push/pull cables after forum advice. I installed both on the left gear tower a little lower down than the throttle quadrant. This made it a bit easier to reach in the tower and install the locking nut. The Alternate air cable simple runs to the engine compartment at this time...no motor yet.
011.jpg


For the cabin heat cable this is how I routed it...I snaked it across the firewall and back to the cabin heat box. On the right side I drilled out a rivet and installed a K1000-8 nut plate on the engine side of the firewall. I then used camp to hold the cable in place. You can also see I used two clamps on the heat box bolt on the other side of the firewall plus running the cables through the stiffner. I am also using a locking bolt to fasten the wire to the operating arm rather than a bend...works for me.
016.jpg
 
Back
Top