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The Anti Splat "Nose Job" a review

Give you give me the contact on who I contact to purchase the RV6A front gear upgrade.
Thanks
Building an RV6A

Hello :
We have finished up all fabrication on this third run of 400 kits. The 4130 chromoly parts are back from heat treat and the plating shop. The fairings are now finished so we are now shipping again this week. Total introductory cost for ?The Nose Job? $379.00 plus freight $14.00 to lower 48 states, on orders of more than one kit add $5.00 freight for each additional kit. Tax if shipped to California adds 8% or $30.32. Orders to Australia are $60.00 freight. Should you wish to order and have not done so already you should now make payment. This will insure your place in line as most of these are now sold. Also it will keep the introductory pricing in place for your order. Please be sure to include any special or detailed shipping instructions and a contact phone number where we can reach you.

PayPal payments go to [email protected]

Credit card payments; Monday through Friday 8; 30 AM 4; 30 PM please call (909) 824-1020 ask for Jami with card and shipping information.

Should you prefer to pay by check; Mail to Anti Splat Aero LLC
346 south I street suite #3
San Bernardino, Ca 92410

Regards, Allan Anti-Splat-Aero-LLC
 
Post-Landing

Mark (mcattell),

THANK YOU for posting your video!

Have you conducted a post-landing inspection and test of your nosegear/nosewheel system to see why the nosewheel was oscillating so much fore and aft? If so, do you have any results and conclusions to share?

I understand that you probably have a Matco nosewheel, but would you confirm/clarify for us which wheel and axle you have installed? I assume you have the standard Van’s Matco wheel and two-part axle, is that correct? Did you install the aftermarket adjustable Matco axle? Do you happen to have a Grove wheel/axle? Something else?

Thank You,

Bill Palmer :)
 
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Bill,

I do have the standard Matco wheel. I'm am going send it to Allan to have him machine it and install ball bearings. After that I will post another video. I'm just getting ready to go on vacation and with the holidays that probably won't happen until after Christmas. So expect something in about a month for a comparison video.

Mark
 
side loads?

Question occurred to me as I was thinking about the Nose Job on my way to work this morning. This is not a criticism of the product, which I have recently purchased, but just a thought I had.
If, during a nosegear incident, the loads are not exactly parallel with the gear leg, is it possible (or at all likely) that there could be enough of a sideways component to the force to cause the gear leg to bend and twist around the Nose Job reinforcement? I'm just thinking that sometimes when you make something really strong in one mode you find that it's almost as weak in another mode. In this case, I'm visualizing a bending gear leg bending sideways enough to bypass the "feet" on the Nose Job strut and fold as if the strut were not there.
Is this an exceedingly unlikely possibility?
 
In this case, I'm visualizing a bending gear leg bending sideways enough to bypass the "feet" on the Nose Job strut and fold as if the strut were not there. Is this an exceedingly unlikely possibility?
I am not an engineer but having an adequate amount of observational and analytical skills I can say with some measure of assurance, YES, it is an "exceedingly unlikely possibility".

The cradles at each end of the brace are very close to the gear leg. They truly do cradle the leg such that if there were any bending in practically any direction except perhaps forward (cannot even imagine how something could cause that to occur in normal operations) the leg will come into contact with the bracket and much, if not all, of the force will be transferred to the bracket. I suppose if there was some very large force applied laterally to the gear leg somehow the leg could bend laterally without the bracket coming into play. It seems to me though that kind of force would be a very catastrophic force that would be very much outside of the normal operations of the aircraft. It could be possible but not very probable. Perhaps others with more engineering prowess will comment further.
 
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I hope it's not too much thread drift, but I installed the Nose-Job, then saw the video on this thread and removed my Van's standard nose wheel assembly to completely inspect it. I found evidence of galling (caused by rotation) between the spacer and the fork, and evidence of rotation between the inside of the bearing and the spacer. This is with the tension on the bolt being enough to require about a 3-5 lb pull to get the wheel to rotate. It was torqued to Van's spec. It seemed like a lot of drag on the wheel but I thought the point was to eliminate the possibility of the parts rotating instead of the bearing. It doesn't seem to work in my case the way Van intends.

Having seen this, as well as the video, a friend of mine offered his experience and said to drill hole through the fork and into the spacer, tap the spacer for a screw and put the screw through the fork into the spacer, removing the ability for those two part to rotate against each other. He is also machining a spacer to connect the two halves inside the wheel so it will immobilize the bearing to spacer rotation from the inside.

I know there has been lots of discussion about this in other threads that I have read, but I confess to being one of those people who has to actually go out, take the parts off and hold them in my hand before I can visualize what's going on:eek:

Thanks for the video, this discussion and to Allan for the Nose Job. Everyone at the airport who sees it has the same reaction: great engineering as evidenced by the "of course" reaction to a simple elegant solution.

All Best

Jeremy Constant
 
Having done more flying (and taxiing) with the nose job I have noticed that there seems to be some beneficial damping happening in my case. In my initial taxi tests before first flight, when I would taxi with full aft stick, between 5 - 10mph, observers said that my nose wheel would actually leave the ground in a specific area of the taxiway at LVK. I would have to go very slowly there otherwise it would set up a "hobby-horse" pitch oscillation, ultimately lifting the nose very slightly off the ground. It seems peculiar to my CG and aircraft...I haven't noticed it in the other RVAs on the field. In the plane it was clearly observed with the plane feeling like it was "bucking". With the Nose Job, this effect is greatly lessened. I now have an expanded range of taxi speeds available. I'm guessing that in addition to more mass (damping) the clamp itself around the weakest part of the gear is changing the spring behavior, in my case for the better.

Just one more observation, FWIW

Jeremy Constant
 
A question. When I installed the (Fairings-Etc.) nose gear upper intersection fairing, I did some fiberglass work on the lower cowl so the intersection fairing would "nest" into lower cowl seamlessly. The anti-splat kit includes a redesigned gear leg fairing that has been reshaped. Will the upper portion of the redesigned gear leg fairing fit into my existing upper intersection fairing or am I in for some additional fiberglass work to get it to fit? The photo was taken before the cowl was painted. Because the older photo shows the area unpainted, it should provide a better illustration of my concerns. Bottom line: Will the reshaped anti-splat gear leg fairing fit into the existing upper intersection fairing without reworking the (now painted) area?

10x91rs.jpg
 
Rick please read

Rick , I just did this install with my fairings etc upper fairing. I had to cut about 1/2 off the fairing bottom to give me more for to aft space. It was not too bad.
 
I did the mod about a month ago, the biggest part of the job was remaking the fairing :(

I trimmed about a 1/2 inch from the aft edge of the new fairing all the way down with some additional trimming at the top to fit the current intersection fairing (I think it was from fairing etc.). I wanted the fairing width to be as narrow as possible as I don't really like the looks of the wider fairing so I made it so it would just fit.
 
I added material to the trailing edge of the upper intersection fairing, otherwise it didn't fit properly. The width/chord of the new fairing is greater than the old one, so it extended out the back of the old intersection fairing.

Merry Christmas, happy Chanukah, happy holidays...

Jeremy
 
Thanks guys. Even though I am comfortable with the nose gear after replacing the fork to comply with the factory SB, obviously not everyone feels that way. Realistically, common sense tells me that installing ANY anti-splat device is likely to increase the potential market value of any -A model that sports it. Still undecided on whether or not to go ahead with a purchase, your valuable input has confirmed my suspicions that reworking the fiberglass to some degree will be necessary to achieve the fit I require.
 
I'm curious about normal use contact with the support ends of the anti-splat. As the nose gear does its normal dance, won't there be some normal operational contact of the end ears against the gear leg? It seems that the long term effect of that contact would be less than ideal.
 
Thanks guys. Even though I am comfortable with the nose gear after replacing the fork to comply with the factory SB, obviously not everyone feels that way. Realistically, common sense tells me that installing ANY anti-splat device is likely to increase the potential market value of any -A model that sports it. Still undecided on whether or not to go ahead with a purchase, your valuable input has confirmed my suspicions that reworking the fiberglass to some degree will be necessary to achieve the fit I require.

...When we made the molds for the leg fairing we made it fit the stock Vans split intersection fairing perfectly. out of the close to eight hundred kits we have sold to date, I have had two fellows say that it needed modification to fit their intersection fairings. After talking to them I found they had aftermarket or modified fairings. At any rare the fairing only required a notch at the top to cure their problem. Merry Christmas, Allan
 
I'm curious about normal use contact with the support ends of the anti-splat. As the nose gear does its normal dance, won't there be some normal operational contact of the end ears against the gear leg? It seems that the long term effect of that contact would be less than ideal.

....The gear leg is made of 6000 series spring steel. It is by no means fragile, nor will it scare easily. They are basically a coil spring, like the ones on the front of most cars only they are straight and extremely durable. So far it looks like the continuous rubbing of the fiberglass fairings seems to do more than any contact from the "Nose Job". If you are seeing lots of contact with the end stops or saddles of the brace, that is telling you that without it you are on dangerous ground. End contact is only accomplished when the gear leg is over stressed. Merry Christmas, Allan
 
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The answer will come with the first "A" with an installed unit and a snagged nose fork in the turf....... It it does not flip, then it will be a success. Till then, it is an unproven product.

I hope it is a success.
 
Allan is absolutely right...I have a fairings etc gear leg and intersection fairing and i tweaked them to my taste. I think there is some known variation in stock cowls because when I went to order from fairings etc, they wanted some very specific measurements on the cowl to determine which intersection fairing would fit best. I think they have three different versions with different dimentions and curvatures. That said, even that needed some tweaking to adjust to taste. This is by no means a criticism of the nose job fairing...just an acknowledgement that even with a vans part, there is a good deal of variation. I know some folks had cowlings or wheel pants that fit really well as delivered and others that needed many hours of work, all from the same factory and the same time frame. It also depends on how you want your parts to fit. My intersection fairings go all the way to the edge of the exit area, some stop well short. It's just what you like, no right fit or wrong. In my opinion the fairing supplied with the nose job is an excellent part and in my case it required only minor tweaking of the intersection fairing to make it look like I wanted it to look. Others may have it work right out of the box. Also, the notch approach that Allan mentions would certainly have been a solution that would have worked too, in my case.

Merry Christmas

All best

Jeremy
 
The answer will come with the first "A" with an installed unit and a snagged nose fork in the turf....... It it does not flip, then it will be a success. Till then, it is an unproven product.

I hope it is a success.

You will never read about about a "A" that does not flip. All you will ever know is that there appears to be less flipping. You will never know if that is due to the Van's SB mod, the Anti-splat, or increased awareness and therefore better weight distributions and pilot technique.

I think all will play a factor.
 
You will never read about about a "A" that does not flip. All you will ever know is that there appears to be less flipping. You will never know if that is due to the Van's SB mod, the Anti-splat, or increased awareness and therefore better weight distributions and pilot technique.

I think all will play a factor.

No one complains about clean toilets Phillip. I too think all three factors will play a part in reducing flipping.
 
The answer will come with the first "A" with an installed unit and a snagged nose fork in the turf....... It it does not flip, then it will be a success. Till then, it is an unproven product.

I hope it is a success.

You don't need to snag the nose for it to be a success. If if it prevents the nose leg from curving into a half moon...........then it's done it's job of saving the prop and an engine teardown. It looks to me as if it will serve that purpose.

L.Adamson
 
You will never read about about a "A" that does not flip. All you will ever know is that there appears to be less flipping. You will never know if that is due to the Van's SB mod, the Anti-splat, or increased awareness and therefore better weight distributions and pilot technique.

I think all will play a factor.

Due to the fact that most all of these Anti-splat kits are sold through this site, when the next nose failure happens with this option installed, it will be reported here. If for no other reason than to brag or complain.
 
You don't need to snag the nose for it to be a success. If if it prevents the nose leg from curving into a half moon...........then it's done it's job of saving the prop and an engine teardown. It looks to me as if it will serve that purpose.

L.Adamson

If you don't snag the nose wheel, the leg won't curve into a half moon.

What I expect to see, and hope for is the bending load will be transferred up near the motor mount. This will cause the nose to lift and maybe skid to a stop without the gear leg snapping off or tucking far enough back to allow the nose to fall.

Sure would be nice to just replace the leg and maybe the motor mount. We will just have to wait and see.
 
If you don't snag the nose wheel, the leg won't curve into a half moon.

Assuming that the front of the nosewheel fork needs to drop into a hole, or hit the edge of an intersecting runway; or something to that effect...

I did neither. Just a slow speed pitching down moment from the last bounce. And it did curve into a half moon. Didn't feel like it was going to flip, and didn't get thrown against the seat belts. Got the C/S prop though. I'm certain the "anti splat" would have saved the day. Too bad it wasn't available until a few weeks later. Note: older fork.

Second note: fly out of any first bounce, even if it seems quite benign, and something you see taildraggers do all the time.

L.Adamson -- was a 6A
 
A video

A couple of months ago, I posted a review of the Nose Job. My lovely bride gave me a Drift HD170 camera for Christmas, so now I can see the nose wheel action. The link is to that video posted on You Tube. What I found interesting was that even though there is a lot of back and forth travel of the nose wheel strut, it didn't seem to be enough to make contact with the Nose Job brace. Yet I do have evidence on the strut of light contact, mostly at the bottom cup.

My review and opinion of the brace has not changed. In fact I am now in the camp that opines that all "A" owners should have this.

This strip is short, and not too smooth. I plan to get the airplane painted in Feb, and plan on grading the strip, and replanting the grass then. That will also add another 400 feet of grass area to use.

http://youtu.be/MVhRCg8k_ig
 
Thanks for the video Mike.

This strip is short, and not too smooth. I plan to get the airplane painted in Feb, and plan on grading the strip, and replanting the grass then. That will also add another 400 feet of grass area to use.

http://youtu.be/MVhRCg8k_ig

I am not trying to criticize you, but my observation on the video...
The take off was classic good form, but the landing didn't look optimal.

It appeared that the nose wheel contacted the ground about 1 second after the mains. This may be due to landing on such a short strip and needing to brake right away.

I am not saying that I could do any better on that strip.

Under those conditions you may be right that the RV-A should have the brace on the front wheel.
Not all RV-A driver will be using such short strips.


Kent
 
You are absolutely right about the landing. In that short space,I approach at between 55 to 60 mph IAS. After the slip, this leaves very little elevator authority to hold the nose up. The stick is all the way back throughout the landing roll, but the nose comes down quickly. As I said in a previous post, it reminds me of landing in a short body MU-2. It also does help in getting brakes applied quickly. Anything over 2000 feet, and it is a standard RV landing, touch down at 65 to 70 with the nose held off.
 
Wow, good job on that short strip. It's easy to see how with not all that much roughness, that the fork nut could pop down and catch the ground. I installed this brace this past weekend and I look forward to having whatever extra margin it provides.
As we said in nuclear power, you practice and prepare for high risk low frequency events, everything else is just a day's work.
 
.....It's easy to see how with not all that much roughness, that the fork nut could pop down and catch the ground....
Yeah, everybody likes to think "It can't happen to me." There is just too much anecdotal evidence out there to make me think otherwise. After watching the video, I figured $393 for a sort of lifetime insurance policy is worth it if for no other reason than resale value. It is amazing to see how much back and forth flexing goes on down there under any circumstance. I ordered the Anti-splat device yesterday morning and a few hours later received a tracking number. I'm not too enthusiastic about match painting the new fiberglass fairing and getting it to seamlessly fit into the existing upper intersection fairing but I'll make that tradeoff for the peace of mind I will gain anytime I choose to land or taxi on anything less than a smooth surface.
 
Rick,

I owned the airplane for about 6 months and was agonizing about brining it in here. I looked at all kinds of ideas, but none gave me enough confidence to try it. The brace came out, and it was obviously my solution. Now after landing in here more than 50 times, I have a procedure that works, and with the brace on, I can concentrate on flying the landing, and not have the "Splat" running around in the back of my head. All the video did was to reenforce the correctness of this solution to the nose strut problem. I do believe that Allan did a great service to the "A" community with this, and I hope he makes gobs of money with it.
 
. . . I'm not too enthusiastic about match painting the new fiberglass fairing and getting it to seamlessly fit into the existing upper intersection fairing but I'll make that tradeoff for the peace of mind I will gain anytime I choose to land or taxi on anything less than a smooth surface.
Rick, just a data point to ponder. I installed my original leg fairing around the anti-splat brace. It does not fit perfectly but it does fit well enough that you do not notice any difference unless you crawl underneath the belly and examine the fairing from the back side. In addition to appearances I have noticed no unusual flight characteristics with this set up either. I have been watching for any abnormal wear on any of the fairing materials. I have about 12-15 hours now with the brace and have noticed nothing unusual.

There is a slight gap at the back of the fairing where the bracket attached to the gear leg. The trailing edge of the fairing is spread out just a little but the hinge is holding the fairing on well. I was able to slide the hinge pin through the bottom 1/3 of the fairing. Then at this section where the hinge would not come together the pin does not slide through any of the eyelets. Above this section the hinge comes back together and I slid the pin through the rest of the hinge eyelets to the top. If you go back to post #29 in this thread you can see pictures of my installation.

I know this is not an ideal setup and I anticipate installing the provided leg fairing down the road sometime. However, as long as my original fairing continues to stay mounted in this fashion without any problems I will continue to fly with it this way.

This installation is working for me so far. As I said, just another data point to ponder.

Live Long and Prosper!
 
For whatever it's worth here's a picture of my new fairing with "Anti-splat" mod:

New-Fairing.jpg
 
Impressive!

Wow,

I ordered mine yesterday and received a tracking number some 25 minutes later!
Checked tracking today, it's on its way :D

Thanks Allan
 
Mike's Video

Hello Mike

Thanks for sharing your take offs and landings in video.
So far, all looks good for such a small strip.

Whats the difference inbetween the first and the second flight?

On the 2nd, the wheel comes off earlyer, you rotate far beyond the hangar, by the landing, you turn in front of the hous ... thats all earlyer, shorter compared to the first flight.

Did you had the Pax seat empty on the 2nd, or did you had wind?

Thanks and regards,

Dominik
 
Good Eye

Good Eye, in fact I did have a pax on the first time around. My youngest son's girlfriend was visiting, and I took her up for a brief ride. Her first time in a small plane and she LOVED it. I think we have a new aviation enthusiast. More reason for my son to get his PPL.
 
Feedback as Requested

...any feedback that you may have or suggestions to improve our products are always welcome. Thanks, Allan Anti Splat Aero LLC (909) 824-1020...
I received the Anti-Splat kit today and gave it a look over. My impression of the parts including the small amount of welding on either end of the brace looks to be of high quality. It is obvious that for me at least, the biggest part of the retrofit process is going to be riveting on the hinge halfs, trimming and match painting the new fiberglass fairing. Out of curiosity, I weighed the individual parts and then together minus the hinges needed for the fairing. I'm guessing the total installed weight of the mod should come in around 2.6 lbs. but about 9 ounces of that total weight includes the fairing. I am very pleased with the speed in which the kit was delivered. Not to quibble, the average purchaser may reasonably expect the hinge stock and rivets needed to tie the trailing edge of the new fiberglass fairing together be included with the kit but for some reason, are not. I'd expect there are more than a few builders or second owners out there who do not have spare hinge stock or even rivets laying around. Oh well. The important thing is to get the brace installed as soon as possible and worry about installing the leg fairing later. On a scale of 1-10, I rate this kit an 8.5 - 9. :)

1lw6a.jpg
 
I was curious about the lack of a hinge on the fairing when I received mine, and emailed Allan about it. He replied that the new fairing is much stiffer than the stock fairing and will stay closed at the back without any fastening at the back, or will work very well with some heavy duty velcro sealing the seam. He said the hinge was not included in an effort to both keep the cost down, and I would assume, weight as well. I plan to go with a velcro strip when I install mine.
 
.....He replied that the new fairing is much stiffer than the stock fairing and will stay closed at the back without any fastening at the back.....
Gerry,

Much stiffer? If he saw what I saw, I don't think Allen would want to be held to the exact wording in your post. :) I've only worked on a few stock fiberglass fairings but even with the limited experience I do have, none ever exhibited the consistent gap along its length that this Anti Splat fairing does. There is no way this fairing is going to seal itself shut without some help. Sure, using Velcro as an alternative to aluminum hinge is a more economical alternative but in this particular application I choose to use a material I have never had any trouble with and am most comfortable using. Velcro? Not for me. Call me a traditionalist. Good thing I happen to have some spare hinge on hand. :)

s1pbow.jpg
 
Can't argue with you looking at that picture Rick, and I certainly wouldn't argue with your choice to use what you're familiar and comfortable with. Having said that, my fairing looks very different; there is no gap whatsoever on mine and considerable tension holding the trailing edge closed. It looks like it will require little or no help to stay closed once the hose clamp is tightened at the bottom and clamped by the intersection fairing at the top. Obviously some variability in the fibreglass parts Anti-Splat is producing.

As for me, I'm a cheater RVator; I bought rather than built, and most definitely don't have any spare hinge, rivets, or riveting tools lying around, so I'll go with what I am comfortable working with; self-adhesive velcro! Probably would still be using it on my shoes if they made toddler sneakers in size 14:)

I am also completely in agreement with your assessment that the important thing is to get the brace on, and worry about the fairing later. Hopefully this weekend!
 
Gerry,

Much stiffer? If he saw what I saw, I don't think Allen would want to be held to the exact wording in your post. :) I've only worked on a few stock fiberglass fairings but even with the limited experience I do have, none ever exhibited the consistent gap along its length that this Anti Splat fairing does. There is no way this fairing is going to seal itself shut without some help. Sure, using Velcro as an alternative to aluminum hinge is a more economical alternative but in this particular application I choose to use a material I have never had any trouble with and am most comfortable using. Velcro? Not for me. Call me a traditionalist. Good thing I happen to have some spare hinge on hand. :)

s1pbow.jpg

This part doesn't look normal to me, and I am thinking it is one that possibly slipped through that shouldn't have. If you like I will send you another that has the normal tight spring loaded fit in the rear seam. You do not need the hinge as it only requires some double sided tape or a few dabs of silicone on the rear seam. Please let me know and I can ship you one tomorrow. We are very sorry for the inconvenience and wish to increase our rating to at least a "10". Regards, Allan
 
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install questions - option to bolt?

a couple questions for Allan and the guys....

1. if the trailing edge of the brace were machined to a taper, would the stock fairing fit better? I realize this affects the performance of the part to some degree.

2. If you did use Velcro to close the fairing, mine seems to collect a tiny drop if oil on every flight, something aerodynamic I suppose, but enough to trail out the bottom rivet holes. Would this affect the velcro's function at some point?

3. Can non-builders like me bolt the trailing edge of the clamp, rather than rivet? seems it would be a t the wide part of the fairing.

4. anyone using the stock fairing, now seeing a lot of chafing inside where the ends of the beam are moving around?

all siad, I think it's a great idea...and I hope to be able to install this spring.! ( no pun intended)
 
fairing

The fairing that came with mine is first class, with a perfect and tight trailing edge. I can see that it would work fine without a TE hinge. But I ordered hinge from Vans, and tonight it only took 90 min to go from bare parts to riveted hinge and the fairing in primer.
 
Fairing

I have been dreading the whole hinge thing since fiberglass is PFM (pure frigging magic) to me, so I am going to try 3M dual lock and see how that does. My part from Allan is also tight and even with good tension at the seam. So this discussion is great as it makes me believe that this fairing will stay closed at the back with very little help. I didn't like the hinge on the old part, as when I tried to remove it, the pin was a real problem to get out, and ended up bent.

I am having some discussions with Bob Snedaker at Fairings, etc. My airplane never had a fairing at the upper intersection with the cowl. Bob is sending me two different sizes to experiment with, and if one of them works then he will have a fairing that fits the anti-splat fairing. Will report on that when I get them.
 
mounting/attaching the fairing?

Having never installed a nose gear fairing, it isn't clear to me how one attaches the fairing. I understand the trailing edge can be left as-is, or attached together, with piano hinge or velcro. But what holds the fairing in place on the leg? Are there any drawings or documents available that show this?

The fairing on my old gear leg (I installed the Van's nose gear SB and the Nose Job at the same time) was bonded permanently to the leg by the previous installer filling the entire inside of the fairing with fiberglass resin. That doesn't sound like the way to go, or the way people here are describing attaching it.
 
Having never installed a nose gear fairing, it isn't clear to me how one attaches the fairing. I understand the trailing edge can be left as-is, or attached together, with piano hinge or velcro. But what holds the fairing in place on the leg? Are there any drawings or documents available that show this?

The fairing on my old gear leg (I installed the Van's nose gear SB and the Nose Job at the same time) was bonded permanently to the leg by the previous installer filling the entire inside of the fairing with fiberglass resin. That doesn't sound like the way to go, or the way people here are describing attaching it.

Piano hinge wire is marked in red. Attaches with pipe clamp. Top of the fairing sit's in a notch of the plate that holds the bottom cowl. This is a pic from my 6A.

20sytg5.jpg
 
nose job

Speaking of nose gear, I am just wondering how many have done the ball bearing substitution in the nose wheel? Antisplat does that as a relief for the to-fro "buck" or "nod" on the A models.
Have seen one kind gentleman's review; are there others who have done that mod?

Jimmy
 
Nose wheel mod.

Speaking of nose gear, I am just wondering how many have done the ball bearing substitution in the nose wheel? Antisplat does that as a relief for the to-fro "buck" or "nod" on the A models.
Have seen one kind gentleman's review; are there others who have done that mod?

Jimmy

So far we have only done 68 of these, but it is building momentum every day. We did 7 today and everyone says they love the way they work and the shaking is gone. Thanks, Allan:D
 
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