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Need help removing a Pro-Sealed Fuel Sender

N49ex

Well Known Member
OK, I admit it, sorry, I don't have an RV, but you guys are my great hope in solving a problem. I need to remove one of my fuel senders, Proseal-ed to a fiberglass rib, which is the inner end of the tank, inside the wing, accessed only via a 6" access cover, about 1 foot away from the sender and rib. The sender won't let go from the rib for love or money! And it's a huge pain getting to it with tools and seeing what you are doing at the same time. Tried various prying, twisting, etc., but Proseal is tough stuff. And of course, for various reasons, heat isn't a good idea for this situation Any ideas?
Here's a picture of the situation....Picture is before the screws and safety wire were removed....

Reinhard Metz
N49EX
[email protected]
 
Last edited:
Thanks!
I've tried with a sharpened L shaped piece of .040 stainless, hammering it as well as I could, and haven't been able to get it to start into the, what is a very thin layer of Pro-seal/thin to nearly non-existent gap....
I'll try again with a putty knife, which may be easier to hammer...
 
Some heat directed right on the sender puck with a heat gun on low will soak through and soften up the pro-seal enough to easily remove it with the help of a sharpened putty knife. You won’t hurt the composite if you don’t over do it.
 
Seems to me I had some success with using a length of safety wire as a saw - just enough to get a spot to pry from. I could remember wrong, I know I tried it, but can't be 100% sure how well it worked.
 
When removing my rear tank panel, I heated a small chunk of steel with a torch pretty hot but not turning color. I then held it against the area I was prying loose. I was able to pry loose and move the steel block along then re-heat as necessary. Use the torch well away from the fuel tank of course. This worked really well to soften the pro seal.
 
Van's told me to try sharpening the end of a hacksaw blade, maintaining the rounded shape of the end, then slowly working it into the seal in several places. At that point a thicker, stiffer tool can be inserted and slowly (carefully) twisted to break the seal
 
Low adhesion sealant

Next time, use low adhesion sealant. I found some at skygeek.com

Bevan
 
Thanks to everyone who offered great suggestions! This had me really wound up, especially working in such an awkward space!

I'm thrilled to report I have finally been successful!

After reading all the suggestions, I first went the route of a well-sharpened paint scraper, but couldn't get enough force behind it to make progress, and that gave me the idea of how to get more force into this small space - which ended up being a super well sharpened and tapered tip on my air impact chisel - that did it just like that!
 
Thanks to everyone who offered great suggestions! This had me really wound up, especially working in such an awkward space!

I'm thrilled to report I have finally been successful!

After reading all the suggestions, I first went the route of a well-sharpened paint scraper, but couldn't get enough force behind it to make progress, and that gave me the idea of how to get more force into this small space - which ended up being a super well sharpened and tapered tip on my air impact chisel - that did it just like that!

There are times when MORE FORCE is the answer.
 
If you lubricate the scraper frequently with MEK and take your time, it cuts pretty well.
Sounds like you already got it removed; however, an impact chissel on an RV tank would create all kinds of leaks. They leak bad enough as-is...
 
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