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SB 16-03-28 Inbd Aileron Hinge Bracket reinforcement

J_Long

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SB 16-03-28 Inbd Aileron Hinge Bracket reinforcement interference with skin rivets

My RV-7 slow-build wing kit came with the Van's SB 16-03-28 Inbd Aileron Hinge Bracket reinforcement kit. I installed it with the aileron bracket and am now closing up the wing as I install the final skin, the lwr-outbd skin. There are two rivets to attach the lwr-outbd skin to the rear spar that can not be driven because of the close proximity with the SB 16-03-28 Doubler.

I'm wondering if others have had this same problem and what they have done?
 

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I would use an equivalent pulled rivet (aka pop-rivet). Im sorry I don't recall what the AN426AD3-3.5 equivalent is, but I know there are some countersunk pulled / blind rivets that will be fine for this.

EDIT: I had it my build notes: You can use a MK-319BS blind / pulled rivet to replace an AN426AD3-3.5 rivet. I wouldn't do a whole bunch of them, but for these two or three rivets, there shouldn't be a problem.
 
Thanks Lynn, I'll check into that -I hope that there's enough room for the un-pulled part of the pull rivet that pokes beyond the hole?
 
We made a custom bucking bar out of 1/8th by 1" steel bar. Ground it down to be really thin on one side so it would fit. It took a while to drive them because the bar was so light, but eventually they set.
 
Even to get a pulled rivet to seat all the way, I had to relieve the flange of the smaller doubler just a bit.
 
I would relieve the end of the flange that is in the way and use a standard rivet. I doubt that the elimination of a small amount of material on the end of that reinforcement is going to affect the performance. Your mileage may vary, I'm not a structures engineer, and Van's has the final say. :)
 
Just bend away the corner of the U-shaped reinforcement. I have seen that this have done many other builders.
 
I didn't see any way that this was going to happen without relieving the ends of those reinforcement channels. I took them back to about a 30* angle and then went with a MK-319BS rivet in those two locations.
 

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Thanks everyone for the great responses. I've already riveted a little beyond this area, closing it in a little so I might favor the pull rivets now rather than trimming the doublers. I have emailed Van's to see what they say about using pull-rivets here and will update this thread...
 
I asked Van’s if I could replace the two AN426AD3-3.5 rivets here with MK-319-BS or even CCC-32 Cherry SS Rivets which I had procured from Aircraft Spruce as equivalents. They said it’s permissible although the MK-319 was preferred. (I found another good thread relating to the CCC-32: https://vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56172&page=2 ). I think at this point I’ll go ahead and use the MK-319-BS rivets but like the simplicity of bending the doubler out of the way… might look into that a little first (thanks Dominik).
 
I would just trim the legs of that doubler at a 45 or more. You wouldn't lose appreciable strength (my shade tree engineering opinion). Whereas bending it, you risk bending more than you want with a higher risk of compromising strength.
 
Yeah, that's what I decided to do for the unassembled RH side, trim the corners at 45 degrees. Unfortunately I had already riveted enough of the LH side that it was difficult to reach for trimming or bending and so I opted for just the pull rivets.
 

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