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New RV-14 Builder

G’day,

I am looking to embark on the RV-14build process. Lots of thoughts and questions, I have been through the 50 odd pages of RV-14 talk on here and read a bunch of blogs, YouTube channels and various other bits and pieces. I am based in remote Australia so want to minimise my freight, a whole day drive to the nearest big town/city.

First question, I am going to get the Cleveland tool kit. Pneumatic squeezer, an extra countersink cage, extra lightweight hose, 1 inch scotchbrite wheel.

I am not sure about the yokes. I am looking at the following:
https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products/3-pneumatic-yoke?variant=18378208018494#.WIDVILYrKgQ 3 inch, think it comes with the kit.
https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products/25-flange-nose-pneu-yoke?variant=18378207526974#.WIDVbrYrKgQ I think this is what most people call the Longeron yoke.
https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products/4-thin-nose-pneu-yoke?variant=18378210508862#.WIDVlrYrKgQ the 4 inch yoke.

And this as a torque wrench. https://www.cleavelandtool.com/prod...1&_sid=6fd4ec07a&_ss=r&variant=18378249044030 I can probably borrow some bigger ones later in the build.

Are there other tools for the RV-14 that I am likely to need for the empennage and fuselage?

Which is my next thought, I am probably going to go with the quick build, figure to order the empennage and fuse at the same time. The quick wings seem pretty straightforward so might as well wait on them. I will use flyleds, they’re Aussie and close/easy to get. Will go Dynon.

The kit seems pretty complete, I can see there were some issues with the wiring harness in the early kits but that dies down so I am assuming the harness is pretty good these days?

I have seen the hoses for brakes and FWF that are available, I can appreciate they are probable a great product but I am thinking to go stock. There was a poll regarding brakes and those that went with vans seemed happy enough with them. The fuel lines, I checked with Vans, are aluminium so I would imagine are long lasting but maybe need some bending etc to fit. I can live with that.

Are there any other upgrades that I need to think about? In particular for the Emp and fuse?
 
And...

I was looking to order some extra clekos and rivets, what size should I get?

Are the oops rivets supplied with the kit of do I get somewhere else?
 
I'm at the same point as you except not in a remote location. Thats got to be an added logistical challenge. I have ordered my tail kit and expect it to arrive in about 3-4 weeks. I haven't ordered my tool kit yet but will do that in the next day or two. I too am going with the Cleveland kit however I'm on the fence about the squeezer. I have read some great reviews on the Numatx squeezer and I'm leaning that way. Its a little bit more expansive but the yokes they sell seem to be a little less expensive so all in its not that much more. I am waiting to make sure the yokes are fully interchangeable with the hand squeezer. Everything I have found indicates they are but I want to make sure.

I have been told to order extra #30 #40 drill bits so I will do that and I am ordering 3 micro stop countersink cages. This was the advice of a local builder who suggested leaving one set #30 one to #40 and one for everything else. I may order some additional #30 and #40 reamers. I have heard these are used a lot as well. They are not expansive and may be something you want to consider.

If I can think of any thing else I will let you know.

Good luck

Eric
 
My opinion

Concur with earlier recommendations.

Cleaveland was very helpful:
-tailoring my initial toolkit purchase,
-recommending other tools later, and
-selling reduced price returned tools when available.

Numatx squeezer:
-yokes interchangeable with Cleaveland "Main Squeeze" (another great tool)
-smaller, lighter working end than other pneumatic squeezers.

Oops rivets: ask Van's?
-negligible add to shipping/ crates
-rivet prices reasonable
-can order small quantities. See their parts list.

EAA, Van's, Zenith "how to" videos:
-show best practices,
-answer some after hours questions,
-help visualize solutions.

DRDT2:
very consistent dimples
easily adjusted
higher mass, more stable.

Pneumatic angle drill:
For when you must drill a hole/drill out a rivet with limited access, less fiddly than adapter kit.
New is nice and very expensive, but you won't use Day 1, or every day.
Shop for used? Rockwell, Dotco, etc. available at Yardstore, other sources.



Best of luck to you!
 
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+1 on the tungsten bar

also, I would highly recommend the DRDT-2 dimpler. Seems like it made a big difference in the quality and consistency of the dimples (and there are thousands of them)

The frame is quite heavy, but if you can weld, it would be easy to make and would save on shipping

The front end mechanism can be bought separately at

http://experimentalaero.com/products/DRDT-2/DRDT-2.html

the site also has fabrication drawings for the frame

good luck!
 
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Certainly give Cleaveland Tools a call and discuss with them what you want. They were very helpful for me even to the point of volunteering to split the shipping into separate packages and over a few weeks to try to avoid the import taxes although they worked on USD$1000 not AUD$1000 so didn't quite work.

Talk with CH Freight based in Melbourne for your shipping. Christine did everything (except insurance) for me. Very helpful and will talk you through it all. They work with Vans regularly.

I would order extra 3M Scotch Brite Red Hand Pad - 3MP47 although I got them from an local source. Extra of the 3M CUT & POLISH WHEEL - 1" would be a good idea too.

Extra 300x 3/32" and 100 x 1/8" cleko's are what I'd order.

Hope that helps.
 
There is a special bucking bar you need for the trailing edges. Buy it or make it, but you must have it to do the job right.

There is some good advice here, but the main thing is to get started. You will figure it out.

Edit: And here is a P.S. A lot of people seem to want to deviate from the Van's plans. My approach has been to follow the plans as closely as possible, and it has worked out great. One example is the trailing edge process where people come up with all sorts of deviations from the recommended method. I followed the plans as written and ended up with great results. You don't need to overthink this. It is a marvel of a kit, and you will see that as you build.
 
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Thanks!

Thanks everyone,

I have a DRDT from a local builder, also got the side tables for it. Will definitely be getting a tungsten bar, everyone raves about them. The special bucking bar s the one I am curious about, is it quite long and thin?

Any comments on the harness from newer builders?

Thanks for the Cleko, size/numbers. Am thinking to get some extra standard rivets, if I need to drill a bunch out I don’t want to run out and assume they’ll probably get used over the life of the build.
 
Some advice from a fellow South Aussie. Don’t worry to much on the freight thing. No matter how hard you try to cover it all, you will have to spring for unexpected orders throughout your build. It’s just the nature of the beast.
Buy whatever tools you can locally. Those fancy toolkits look nice, but you are still moving heavy objects halfway around the world. The more you buy locally, the better. A high quality torque wrench(eg Norbar) bought here, will probably owe you less than the mid range item sent from the USA. Not criticising Cleaveland or anyone else, but the small saving on the complete kit will soon be sucked up in freight and gst.
I would recommend letting Vans organise freight on your kits. They have done it many times before, and know their stuff. I couldn’t have got a better deal or service from any local forwarder.
Just my opinions. Feel free to send me a pm if you want to.
Enjoy the journey.
Cheers, DaveH
120485:)
 
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Search Rv-14 on cleaveland tools and buy everything needed specifically for the rv-14.

Numatx is great. if you go this way, then you will need to have a c-frame built. Then you can use for both squeezing rivets and dimpling. I have the plans for the c-frame. Maybe cheaper way to go altogether. Can be sold in the end anyway. I have a 3”, longeron, and 4” yoke. The latter is heavy but very nice at times. I probably should have gotten a no-hole yoke. Instead I put pop rivets in where I could not get them. All Okayed by Vans. I also used as thick Al spacer between the piston and the die at times to get some extra space to squeeze some rivets.


I also have an extensive list of tools if anyone is interested. Most are suggested by Troy Grover (grove-air). I have been adding to it over time.

You also have to build a rib straightener, if no one has suggested this yet. Needed for wings.
 
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