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Throttle/mixture cable bracket

BobCollins(AA)

Well Known Member
I have a IO-360 cold air induction with horizontal fuel servo and I am looking for brackets to support the appropriate cables. Where can I get the brackets ?

Thanks
 
bracket

I built mine from mild steel. Using Vans stock cables, I had to use extensions from ACS but I wanted the stock cables as they are less $ and quicker to order and replace in the future. The extensions caused the nut to be located farther aft and the bracket attaches to the rear of the Superior sump. The 4 pipe Vetterman Exhaust allows me to run my mixture underneath and do away with the bellcrank. The weight of the bracket and washers is less than the weight of Vans throttle and mixture bellcrank.

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https://plus.google.com/photos/1168...6024014302147333138&oid=116821714990094458128
 
You need the bellcrank kit, or direct connection? I have a bellcrank kit I'm not using and would sell. Let me know.

Bryan
 
Same setup on my 9A, I had to fabricate the brackets for throttle and mixture from mild steel and hung them on the aft corners of the sump.
 
Vans

I bought the ones from Vans and cut it up to work. I have a Superior XP IO-360 with cold induction with horizontal intake.
 
Throttle & Mixture Pics

Throttle Bracket

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Mixture Bracket

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Got more pics on the build site.
 
I called Van's this morning and asked them about the brackets I need to use for the throttle and mixture cable on my IO-360 from Superior with cold air induction and horizontal fuel servo (silverhawk).
The person from tech. support at Van told me he had never seen a Superior engine with cold air induction and therefore could not help me. He suggested I go to this website and try to find someone whom has installed this engine...
Can anyone help
 
Here's what I did on mine, IO360 with Superior cold-air horizontal, Bendix injection and Vetterman crossover, on a 9A.

This is the throttle cable bracket, I fabbed this from a piece of 8" C-Purlin I had laying around, it is attached at the right aft corner of the sump. You can't see it from the angle of the photo, but the top portion of this bracket is custom-shaped to fit the cast sump, to prevent it from rotating around the shaft of the bolt and putting the cable in a bind.

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Here is the throttle arm connection.

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I don't have this done for the mixture yet, but the procedure will be the same, the cable lays out nicely for a bracket to attach at the left aft corner of the sump.
 
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Here are my solutions. Different setup (ECI Cold Air Intake), but might give you some ideas. I did need to purchase a longer mixture cable.

Used Vans throttle bracket, but just reversed it, then tweaked it a bit. Perfect!
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Fabricated my own mixture bracket to avoid the Rube Goldberg bellcrank system. Less complexity and weight.
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Bob,
Looks like I have the same set up you have. I have some extra material left over if you want to make one you are welcome to a piece. You can come check out what I did or I can send you some pictures.
just PM me.
 
Am I crazy?

Hey guys, I was admiring this problem for a while, and decided I really didn’t want to cut the vans bracket significantly to fit it on the bottom of the sump. I got a wild hair to put the bracket on top. It makes the arm geometry a bit funky, but I found a sweet spot that allows stop to stop with smooth action. It did require a hole closer to the pivot point for the cable side to give enough throw. Does anybody see an issue using this solution? Thanks!

Memphis
 

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Hey guys, I was admiring this problem for a while, and decided I really didn’t want to cut the vans bracket significantly to fit it on the bottom of the sump. I got a wild hair to put the bracket on top. It makes the arm geometry a bit funky, but I found a sweet spot that allows stop to stop with smooth action. It did require a hole closer to the pivot point for the cable side to give enough throw. Does anybody see an issue using this solution? Thanks!

Memphis
It might look different in person, but from the pictures I would not do it this way. This is an area for perfection, since failure can be rather severe.
 
It might look different in person, but from the pictures I would not do it this way. This is an area for perfection, since failure can be rather severe.

I appreciate the insight. Out of curiosity, what concerns you from the pictures? Just trying to learn!
 
Angles

It did not look quite right to me either, I am no FWF expert but have worked on lots of other mechanical devices... the concern is the angle of the rod end fittings and the degree to which they are out of alignment with the load that is being transferred. This will put side loads on the bushings and the flat bellcrank and that may not be ideal.
And bolt shank should point down rather than up (cable end attach) per normal aircraft practice.
Just my 0.02 opinion, we are all learning.
 
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I appreciate the insight. Out of curiosity, what concerns you from the pictures? Just trying to learn!
Exactly what Paul said - the angles are much larger than I believe these kinds of things are designed for. The ideal would be completely straight motion, and the rod end bearings are there just to deal with the small angle changes due to the lever length and throw of the cable.

If the angle you are proposing was used for something non-critical and infrequently used it might be different, but this is one of the most critical systems and failure here could end with a very bad day. Also, there is a very clearly engineered and tested better way to do it that's working pretty well on over 10,000 aircraft.
 
Here's a picture of mine. If I remember, I had to grind away some material form one part of the bracket to fit around the hex nut port on the sump. I think I swapped the mixture arm and throttle arm to get clearance from the starter and get a better angle, but its been a while.

While your down there, start planning for the starter wire routing, since you'll be installing adel clamps on a lot of the sump bolts to hold the fat wire.
 

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Bracketology

Hey guys, I was admiring this problem for a while, and decided I really didn’t want to cut the vans bracket significantly to fit it on the bottom of the sump. I got a wild hair to put the bracket on top. It makes the arm geometry a bit funky, but I found a sweet spot that allows stop to stop with smooth action. It did require a hole closer to the pivot point for the cable side to give enough throw. Does anybody see an issue using this solution? Thanks!

Memphis

I concur with others, who have said your angles look excessive. Sorry, it looks like you've worked HARD at your solution ;(. I remember having to cut out a bit of the bracket to fit in front of the plug...in fact, I think I swapped out the plug with a shallower one so that it was "more flush" when screwed in. This decision minimized the amount I had to remove from the bracket. Sorry...not at the hangar for pictures.
 
I just looked up drawings on OP-22 & it depicts the bell crank pivot brackets bolted to the oil pan below the flange, this would level out the linkage geometry so the servo lever, closer to the desirable linkage 70 to 110 degree lever sweep & link near straight on alignment.
Looks like if the pivot brackets modified to go around the plug boss you would be in business again!

Note the longer cable described in 6/14/2014 post would, I think, reverse the mixture actuation.. push- idle cut off, pull back- full rich.. Hope he re-visited that..
 
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Looks wrong

It looks like the bracket is installed wrong. Nobody would design a bracket with these angles. The bracket should hold the bellcrank so everything is in line. I would take the bracket away and just put the bellcrank in a position where it is all aligned. then figure out which way the bracket should be. JMHO.
 
throttle and mixture bracket

I have an Superior Aerosport IO-360 M1S (I'm pretty sure the S denotes cold air induction) with a Silverhawk EX fuel injection system. *****Have to put a shout out to Darren at Aerosport Power.***** Super Excellent guy, and I would recommend the build school to everyone if they can do it.

I am buying the FWF kit and want to know if I should go with the Vans bracket for the throttle and mixture cable. I'm hearing the cables are too short and that the bracket does not fit perfectly so a modification is necessary.

Or better yet did anyone take a different path and find a bracket made specifically for the Superior cold induction and Silverhawk EX setup?
 
Or better yet did anyone take a different path and find a bracket made specifically for the Superior cold induction and Silverhawk EX setup?

Bending relatively thin 4130 isn't a big deal. You can use a hammer or plastic mallet to form flanges by bending the steel over a wooden straightedge like a 2x4. Buy a small sheet of steel from Aircraft Spruce and either chop up the standard bracket and fabricate bolt-on extensions, or just fabricate a whole new bracket.
 
Thanks for the responses

All, thanks for the responses! Based on the concern, I modified the bracket and ground the plug from the oil pan down a bit so that the bracket will fit on the bottom of the flange. I think I’ll weld a plate on the front of the bracket (opposite of where I had to remove material) to add some strength back.

For those that were confused, I was trying to find a way to make the Vans bracket work without modifying it, so I intentionally installed it on top of the flange to see if that was a viable solution. No bueno- do the mod.
 
Here’s my throttle cable bracket with the Superior cold air sump. Made from stainless. Needed a custom length throttle cable but the stock mixture cable and linkage worked with minimal modification to the bracket.
 

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My brackets took a little fabricating as well, to fit up satisfactorily.
I elongated the throttle bracket and put a 30 degree bend in it to lower the throttle cable to a better position.
I also filed down the sump plug to clear the mixture bracket, tried to get a more level throw as the mixture cable was worked back and forth. The starter was an interference point for awhile. Replaced the starter with a newer one. This was an IO360B1E before sump change.
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Wendell,

I’d get rid of that spacer on the mixture bracket and use a shorter bolt. You can get the angle much straighter.
 

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Wendell,

I’d get rid of that spacer on the mixture bracket and use a shorter bolt. You can get the angle much straighter.

My bad for not completing the story. That picture was what had to be done with a MagnaFlite Starter when I first fitted the mixture linkage years ago. I changed to a skytec starter and reclocked the control arm to a better position. I eliminated that spacer. However, that older linkage worked fine.
FP25112013A0000Y.jpg
 
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