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Nose wheel bearing seized?

Dgamble

Dgamble

Well Known Member
Heard a nasty rattle while taxiing tonight. Stopped and shut down immediately. Outside, I found one of the little anti-spin doohickeys had sheared completely off of the nose wheel fork - luckily, found it sitting close near by.

Up on the jack, I think the nose wheel bearing is trashed:

http://youtu.be/ok3ieKMk8YM

I don't remember installing those bearings like we did with the mains. So,

- how do I get them out of there?
- has anyone else had to replace them, and if so, where did you get the new ones>
 
Dgamble said:
Heard a nasty rattle while taxiing tonight. Stopped and shut down immediately. Outside, I found one of the little anti-spin doohickeys had sheared completely off of the nose wheel fork - luckily, found it sitting close near by.

Up on the jack, I think the nose wheel bearing is trashed:

http://youtu.be/ok3ieKMk8YM

I don't remember installing those bearings like we did with the mains. So,

- how do I get them out of there?
- has anyone else had to replace them, and if so, where did you get the new ones>
Click to expand...

The nose wheel bearing is a sealed unit I believe....I just did mine....

Btw, I think this is the second or third report of a nose wheel bearing failure I have read on here.

Warranty?

http://http://www.matcomfg.com/index.html
 
A maybe - -

do you recall how much torque on the axle bolt ? Would seem maybe too much is a possibility.
 
Nose Wheel Bearing Adjust - 35-07

The -12 nose wheel bearings are different than the main wheels in the adjustment procedure. The nose wheel bearings are a ball bearing rather than the tapered roller bearings used on the main wheels.
The instructions say to torque the nut until a slight drag is felt and then back off 1/4 turn. A heavy side loading due to excess bolt torque on these ball bearing will no doubt destroy them in short order.
i-44dHxWp-L.jpg
 
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I think the wheel was probably off at the paint shop, so I honestly can't answer to what the current torque was. They're A&Ps and had the maint. manual, and their work was very professional, but it's certainly a possibility that they got it wrong.

It's also possible that I did, too.

The next question is how to replace them. They don't seem to want to come out of the wheel in the way that the mains do, and I can't seem to find any more info on replacing them. I'll split the wheel today after work and see if that makes any difference.

Checking 'The List', all I find that seems close to the part in question is:

BEARING LM-67000L-A MATCO NOSE WHL/EACH $19.50
or
NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS $130.00

I'll talk to Ordering today - hoping it's the LM-67000L-A that I'm looking for.
 
Dave - -

if you don't have an "inside" bearing puller, sometimes you can go thru the other side and tap them out with a small longer punch. Be sure you are tapping the bearing and not the shoulder they go in against. Tap from side to side so they come out evenly as possible.
 
I will have to double check mine. USUALLY in such applications, there is a spacer inside between the two inner races, and the bolt is then tightened up to max torque of the bolt. This installation would appear to put some side load on bearings that are not normally designed for side loading.
I can understand the paint shop perhaps making this mistake, I cannot recall reading those instructions when I installed mine..
 
So is the problem too little torque causing the seal to rotate instead of the bearing or too much torque causing compression and side loading issues, etc?
 
John - -

nose wheel is not the same as the mains. The nose bearings are sealed ball bearings. A small side load they can handle, but that is it. The mains are another issue.
 
Just looked at original instructions - -

there was no mention of how to torque the front axle bolt. Not sure when it was added.
 
I can't believe my good luck at seeing this. I'm doing my annual and torqued this bolt yesterday. Today I'll readjust it. Hopefully no damage was done to the seal.
 
Rich - -

it is not actually the seal, but the bearing itself that is of most concern. If the seal pops out, it is a likely sign the bearing has failed or soon will.
 
Is the bearing mod done by Antisplataero applicable to the RV12 ?
I had my 9A front wheel done to prevent a lockup like you experienced, but at higher velocity. Would make for a bad day.
 
flightlogic said:
Is the bearing mod done by Antisplataero applicable to the RV12 ?
I had my 9A front wheel done to prevent a lockup like you experienced, but at higher velocity. Would make for a bad day.
Click to expand...

No... The bearings that Allan uses in his nose and main mods is no $15 Bearing like this cheap standard roller in the RV12 application.
 
Nose wheel bearing

Here's what I used...

16282RS Rubber Sealed Imperial Deep Groove Ball Bearing

Cheers...Keith
 
Ywes, RV12 nosewheel

I think I cracked a ball bearing in the nosewheel - don't know how/why. I found the serial number of the bearing stamped on it and ordered a replacement from a bearing supplier in the UK. Around $15.

Cheers...Keith
 
Dave- Found this on a Google search of the part number for the 1628-2RS nose wheel bearings you need. It appears as though that bearing has a EMQ rating which is for electric motor quality. Should be able to spin fast one would think ... but there is no mention of how much of a load the bearing is designed for.

A west coast vendor has the bearings for $10.37 along with the bearing specifications here:
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7636

Hope that helps,
 
Timken 03062/03162 tapered roller bearings. This set will require a seal and a new modified axle set Vans U1210B/U1210A. The seal I found is a Chicago Rawhide 12329 (1 1/4" ID X 1 5/8 OD X .188). The 1628 bearing width is .50
the 03162 race is .43 wide. How deep is the bearing pocket in the wheel? Looks like we would need .626" or very close to that to get the edge crush to hold the seal.
1628 bearing STATIC LOAD = 1010 lbf DYNAMIC 2595 lbf
Timken set is 4780 lbf STATIC and 5700 lbf DYNAMIC
I do not have a hub to measure.
CHeck ebay for USA made NICE 1628 DCTN bearings.
 
RFSchaller said:
Is this really an issue? How many people have had a failure when the axle bolt has been correctly tightened?
Click to expand...

I am seriously thinking about getting the anti-splat job going on all the wheels after cert....maybe while in paint.

Looks like they do a nice job, and the small investment to never have to futz with those main wheel bearings again, or worry about the issue with the nose wheel bearings would be worth it.

I read John's post about the having the main wheels done, wondering if anyone has had a RV-12 nose wheel done yet?

Meanwhile back to my canopy!

Section 34! KHAAAANNNN!
 
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I could be wrong but my understanding that they don't have anything for the nose gear on the 12, just the mains. I hope someone proves me wrong!

Bob
 
John,

I don't know if you will gain much since you still have to pull the wheels when you replace brake pads. Granted you won't get any wheel bearing grease on those soft airline pilot hands! :)

Rich
 
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