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SB: 14-11-03 Issued (RV-12 Wing Skin-to-Spar Rivet Wear)

I was fortunate that this SB was issued just as I was finishing my wings...
Recently I received the '12 Wing Doubler Install Kit' from Vans, which contains some 5/32 rivets (BSPQ-5-4). They don't seem to 'pull' exactly the same as, for example, the smaller LP4-3 rivets. On these larger rivets, the mandrel is breaking off right at the top of the factory head. (The smaller ones of course leave a little 'hole' at the top).

I was just hoping that the remaining mandrel stem still has adequate strength. And also hoping I'm not doing these incorrectly for whatever reason.

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j351/califlor/rivet mandrel_zpsbxt49uu3.jpg

PS This is an excellent forum and I have already learned a lot of valuable things, thanks to all who have shared their hard-earned experience.
 
I was fortunate that this SB was issued just as I was finishing my wings...
Recently I received the '12 Wing Doubler Install Kit' from Vans, which contains some 5/32 rivets (BSPQ-5-4). They don't seem to 'pull' exactly the same as, for example, the smaller LP4-3 rivets. On these larger rivets, the mandrel is breaking off right at the top of the factory head. (The smaller ones of course leave a little 'hole' at the top).

On the test installation of the S.B. that I did, the stem fractured slightly below the top of the rivet head (maybe .025 - .030") so it was not exactly like yours but similar.

Did you use the prescribed #22 drill for these holes? A larger diam hole would allow the stem to pull into the rivet a little further (it will also not result in a rivet that is expanded to fully fill the hole near the manufactured head of the rivet).
Another possibility is if you are using a pneumatic rivet puller, you have the air pressure set to high so that it pulls the stem too quickly. I have seen this produce different results with rivets compared to pulling them slowly with a hand tool.
 
Thanks Scott, yes I used a #22 drill for the holes. The first one I pulled was with the pneumatic puller, at the usual 90psi. After seeing what it did, I used the manual puller, which I think maybe fractured the stem slightly lower but not by much.
Do you think I'll need to re-do these..?
 
Thanks Scott, yes I used a #22 drill for the holes. The first one I pulled was with the pneumatic puller, at the usual 90psi. After seeing what it did, I used the manual puller, which I think maybe fractured the stem slightly lower but not by much.
Do you think I'll need to re-do these..?

No.
I think they are fine as long is the shop heads do not look unusual.
 
Bob - I found 40 psi was much better for pulling LP4-3's than 90 psi. Much less bounce, good control. Puller was from the Cleaveland kit.
 
Bob - I found 40 psi was much better for pulling LP4-3's than 90 psi. Much less bounce, good control. Puller was from the Cleaveland kit.

I agree.
It is better to use just enough pressure for the tool to fully set the rivet.

Bob your shop heads look like the ones in the test installation.
 
SB 14-11-03 Doubler Installation

In the WARNING:, just before Step 7 of the SB, it says to protect the spar caps by inserting a thin stip of steel, .040" max thickness, between the skin and spar caps (L wing only). What are people using for the thin strip of steel?
 
I 'fabricated' a protective strip from one of the metal straps used on the shipping crates.
 
I did the service bulletin today on the right wing which I still had in work so had avoided installation of the rivets that were required to be drilled out. I seem to have an issue with the 5/32 rivets that was being addressed in this thread. I used a #22 drill per the instructions for the 8 holes. All of my 8 rivets ended up slightly higher than the manufactured head. I used two different manual pullers and also my pneumatic puller. I got similar results with each one. The picture shows close-up of the stems. Looking at the pieces that broke off the break is in nearly the same place on every one of them. What should I do now? I'm afraid if I try grinding or filing on the stems it will loosen them. My shop heads look exactly like they should based on the other pictures I have seen.
IMG_2606-L.jpg
 
All eight of mine broke proud of the rivet head also. I filed 'em down flush with the rivet head. The trick on that was, do the 5/32"rivets first, and counting from inboard, do #8 first, then #7, and so on trying not to scratch the doubler with the file. The picture below is also a link to my blog post on the SB.
 
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All eight of mine broke proud of the rivet head also.

It seems that this a common issue for the BSPQ. Is there a method to avoid that, or at least to minimize the probability that the stems break proud?
I am about to install the SB doubler plates and I don't like the idea of filing them down after riveting.
Thanks !
 
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Back on 1-28, Bill and Scott suggested using less air pressure on the rivet puller...so I tried 40psi. It did work better, breaking the rivet stem just barely below the top of the factory head.

Just FYI, I'm using the Isham (planetools.com) rivet puller, their 'heavy duty' model.
 
I got the doubler but have not installed it yet, the wings are still in somebody else's garage.
Noticing most builders have some problems with long stems, I did some checking.
The rivet diameter is .155"
The No 22 drill is. .157
A fractional 5/32 is. .156
This 1/100" May make a difference, or at least I will try it when I get to it.
 
finally I did it like that

I sacrified three of those BSPQ and practiced on a scrap piece. The first one I pulled by the hand riveter, the others by the pneumatic puller at 40..45psi. All stems broke proud.
To install the doubler I followed Kevin's suggestions. I started with the 5/32" from outboard to inboard.
After each rivet, I filed down the stem. All stem broke proud 3/64" above the dome head. The trick is go slow and
to take your time while filing. Constantly check that you don't scratch the doubler or (even worse) the skin. There's not much clearance.

29njpk5.jpg


Then I installed the cherry followed by the AD41H and finally the LP4-3. (whouu 4 different types of rivets for a doubler plate :eek:)
At the end, I smoothed the BSPQ row by 400 sanding paper and finally scuffed the doubler plate by scotch brite pad.
I am happy how it came out, but have to admit that it's much easier doing that during the build.:)

205frzk.jpg


And yes, I did prime the bottom side of the doubler plate prior installation.
 
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Holes Do Not Match Up

I must be doing something obviously wrong, but I can't get the doubler holes to line up with the closely-spaced holes on the main spar. Am I missing something?

The holes along the red lines do not match up. Are they supposed to?
b6qxwn.png


2i6ialz.jpg
 
Hi

Try flipping the doubler over. I had this happen on my right wing at the weekend. I stood staring at it scratching my head and my friend just picked it up, flipped it over and all was well!.

Anthony
Tamworth, England
 
Understanding the problem

Required Action Inspect if no signs of rivet wear re-inspect at every annual.
My question has anyone found this problem in the first 400 hours or is this a item caused by fatigue.
Thanks

Joe Dallas
 
I can tell you that I have 650 hours and no sign what so ever of wear on these.

Brad Stiefvater
Salem SD
 
SB: 14-11-03 Issued (RV-12 Wing Skin-to-Spar Rivet Wear

When I did this I just slipped an 18" steel scale in the gap to protect the spar.
 
Warning ;-)

I chamfered the edge of my parts at home before taking them to the plane to undertake the rest of the work. This is not the sequence called out in the plans, but I wanted to use tools I had at home.

Beware! In addition to checking which way to orient the part to make the holes line up, you also have to check which orientation does not result in overlapping an existing rivet (after drilling out the required ones). I guess that's three chances to do it wrong, and just one chance to get it right. Defer any chamfering until you are certain which orientation is correct for each wing!

Cheers...Keith
 
SB 14-11-03 Kit Order #

Can someone help me with the order number for the SB 14-11-03 ?WING DOUBLER INSTALL KIT? I tried unsuccessfully every possible way to find the part in Van's Order system.
Thanks for your help
 
I can not find it on their website either. But on my order form the part number is "SB 14-11-03" and the description is "12 Wing Doubler Kit" and price is $17.50
 
Error in the manual?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have a question related to this installation. On page 17-02 Step 4, the WARNING says to install a piece of steel in-between the spar caps and skins of the LEFT wing to protect the underlying spar caps from being inadvertently drilled. However, it seems to me this is an error in the manual, since the spar caps underlie these holes only on the RIGHT wing. On the left wing the spar caps are installed on the other side of the web, so they are nowhere near these holes.

My wing kit is only a year old, but I checked the original SB14-11-03 and it also clearly says to protect the left wing and that the right wing is not an issue here. So seems like the error started there and maybe never got corrected. Can anyone else corroborate this experience? Or am I misunderstanding something? Thanks!

Steve
 
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