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wing plugs to allow you to jack a wing up

EV's RV6

Member
Awhile back I had seen an ad for letting you remove your wing tie down bolts and installing a tool in that hole that would let you jack the wing up to change a tire anyone know about a tool like that?
Thanks
EV
 
Awhile back I had seen an ad for letting you remove your wing tie down bolts and installing a tool in that hole that would let you jack the wing up to change a tire anyone know about a tool like that?
Thanks
EV

I’ve used Bogert Aviation‘s that Carl linked to with a harbor freight bottle jack (with a platform stand) and they work great.
 
I use an 18" HF bottle jack. Drilled a 1/2" hole in the top, parallel to the stroke of the jack. Insert a ~5" piece of 3/8" threaded rod into the tiedown hole, with the other end in the hole in the bottle jack. Very stable and secure. Of course you have to properly brace the jack (there are a couple threads on here about building the jack stand).
 
Be very careful using jack pads - especially with one wing and no tail stand. They have a nasty proclivity to slip off the jack and then you have a big hole in your wing. You might consider placing a piece of 2X6 wood with foam or carpet between the tie down bolt hole and jack instead.
 
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Be very careful using jack pads - especially with one wing and no tail stand. They have a nasty proclivity to slip off the jack and then you have a big hole in your wing. You might consider placing a piece of 2X6 wood with foam or carpet between the tie down bolt hole and jack instead.

I would suggest you go to Vans site and read how the factory recommends jacking your RV. Your statement contradicts this and many of us who have followed Vans recommended practices for years. The few problems that I am aware of where pure negligence.
You couldn't knock my RV off the jacks if you tried.

By the way, for the OP, yes, you can buy an expensive insert, or you can do like most of us; grind down the head of a grade5 or grade8 bolt and use a proper jack adaptor with a dished out receiver. By the way, Vans used to supply a plastic insert, yes plastic. I used it for years before making my own bolts.
 
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I would suggest you go to Vans site and read how the factory recommends jacking your RV. Your statement contradicts this and many of us who have followed Vans recommended practices for years. The few problems that I am aware of where pure negligence.
You couldn't knock my RV off the jacks if you tried.

By the way, for the OP, yes, you can buy an expensive insert, or you can do like most of us; grind down the head of a grade5 or grade8 bolt and use a proper jack adaptor with a dished out receiver. By the way, Vans used to supply a plastic insert, yes plastic. I used it for years before making my own bolts.

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I used to use plain old carriage bolts. But I also had a plywood board around the carriage bolt with felt between the board and the wing, just in case.
 
I thought of carriage bolts initially but the ones in our local hardware store looked pretty crude & maybe brittle. I opted for grade 5 bolts rounded off, when they got lost my next batch were grade 8 (batch because I tend to loose them)
 
I thought of carriage bolts initially but the ones in our local hardware store looked pretty crude & maybe brittle.

This is what caused the one accident I am aware of. You absolutely don?t want to use a cheap or unknown grade bolt. The accident also involved how the guy used the jacks. He did not raise the tail and put a side load on his cheap bolts, which snapped. There is a conversation about this accident somewhere in the archives.

I always insure my bolts are perpendicular to the jack, or as close as I can get them. Probably overkill for a grade5 or 8 bolt, but I don?t want to put them in shear regardless.
 
Or just bolt a 1-1/8? or so 3/8 drive socket into the tie down and run the jack ram into that. No jack mod required. Been working for me and the local gang for over a decade. I put a UHMW tape covered fender washer between the socket and skin to protect the paint.
 
Angle the Jack

For best results and safety, you need to angle the jack outward at the base. The angle at the jackpoint gets surprisingly large and scary looking as you raise the wing high enough to get the tire off the ground.
 
An Allen Head Bolt

I use a 1? stainless allen head bolt with a large area washer under the head. I snug it to the bottom of the wing and lift away with my short wing jack. (got lucky on a pair of jacks intended for low wing Pipers). Stainless just because it looks cool, plain steel would be just as good. I don?t use that hole for the tiedown any more after installing spring loaded retractable tiedowns in the wingtips.
 
I just bought some large steel pipe caps, drilled them in the center, and inserted a grade 8 bolt and put a washer and nut to hold it in place to capture the hydraulic ram from the jack.

IMG_1215-M.jpg


Easy project at minimal cost and they have performed just fine for jacking up the airplane.
 
Ditto for me.
I just bought some large steel pipe caps, drilled them in the center, and inserted a grade 8 bolt and put a washer and nut to hold it in place to capture the hydraulic ram from the jack.

IMG_1215-M.jpg


Easy project at minimal cost and they have performed just fine for jacking up the airplane.
 
For best results and safety, you need to angle the jack outward at the base. The angle at the jackpoint gets surprisingly large and scary looking as you raise the wing high enough to get the tire off the ground.

Raise the tail.
It is really important to raise the tail and reduce that angle. The one accident I am aware of used hardware store bolts and did not raise the tail putting the cheap bolts in shear. He might have been fine if he raised the tail but still use quality bolts or an engineered product.
 
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