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  #141  
Old 12-07-2019, 02:49 PM
rv6ejguy's Avatar
rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcjetpilot View Post
Does ND (Japan) actually make them or do they outsource it out to the same folks making the clones? Who knows. VW's are made in Mexico and Honda's are made in Tennessee. A
Denso can't afford substandard parts quality to save a few pennies by offshoring components. I'd guess that any plant they set up outside Japan would be supervised by Japanese and employ the same process control and QC as is used in Japan.

You don't risk a 50 year reputation as the top OEM auto supplier of electrical components in the world. We've seen how that turned out for one supplier here...

I have a friend who works at Denso in Japan, I'll ask and see what he can find out.
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Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 441.0 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


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  #142  
Old 01-14-2020, 12:27 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default Second PP 60 amp alternator failure on RV-10

First one that came with the kit failed at 191 hrs. Voltage down to 12.8 from 14.2 VDC. Whining over intercom below 1200 rpm. The STATOR was not secured properly with epoxy coating, hot glue or sealant. No star washers were used under screws. This caused the the stator wires to break down deep, which are unrepairable. Replaced stator for $80. Keeping this alternator for a spare. Prop was balanced (PP liked to blame all of their broken stator wires on vibration or heat), no #1 exhaust heat shield and no cooling blast tube used since new. No problem with rectifier, regulator, oval 3-pin connector or brushes. No signs of overheating.

Second one has now failed at 45 hrs. Voltage down from 14.2 to 13.6 VDC. I will let you know what I find on that one. Time for a change and I won’t be spending $600-$800 anymore on $100-$150 alternators. 3 pin oval connector replaced as part of my troubleshooting. No change. Replaced 9 year old PC925L just in case. No change. Replaced 3 yr old, 3rd PC680 aux battery. No change.
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Last edited by Wayne Gillispie : 01-18-2020 at 09:14 PM.
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  #143  
Old 01-14-2020, 02:39 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Gillispie View Post
First one that came with kit failed at 191 hrs. Diodes. Second one has failed at 45 hrs. Time for a change.
I hope you are holding Hartzell's feet to the fire for help on that early hour failure. Like an overnight shipment, teardown report, and labor to install the new one. Levi ( I think is his name) came on here and helped us at one time understand their improvements.

Do you know what failed? Did you use the new connector, or the old one?
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  #144  
Old 01-17-2020, 06:45 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default 2nd PP voltage decreasing

See my edit above. I will keep you guys informed.

There is nothing special about these overpriced alternators with their “proprietary” overvoltage protection. How many overvoltage occurrences have you heard of in automobiles or aircraft. It’s just a way to charge $500 more to us “rich” airboat owners.

I am not calling Hartzell. It is poor business practices and customer service to sell an alternator, then not provide repair parts or repair services at a minimum. Instead, they just recommend buying a new one. I trust my local guy with 50 years of experience.
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Last edited by Wayne Gillispie : 01-17-2020 at 07:43 PM.
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  #145  
Old 01-17-2020, 11:08 AM
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azrv6 azrv6 is offline
 
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My Duralast 14184 finally quit last month after 24 years and 1000 hours of faithful service.
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  #146  
Old 01-17-2020, 06:18 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Location: North Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azrv6 View Post
My Duralast 14184 finally quit last month after 24 years and 1000 hours of faithful service.
If you still own the 1978 Honda Civic you can go get a free replacement alternator.......
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  #147  
Old 03-31-2020, 09:02 AM
pecanflyboy pecanflyboy is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Granbury, Texas
Posts: 89
Default Internal to External VR conversion

Back to the basics.

Thanks for all the advice and information, but this is my configuration (as are many):

I have an auto alternator (Duralast 14824, 55amp) that is internally regulated as purchased from Autozone. I'm am pairing this with a B&C external regulator.

Question 1: I need to convert the round 3 pin (B+ not included) internal regulator to a one wire field input from the external regulator. The only information I've found is the Lynn French document which is not comprehensive and a bit confusing. Is there another approach for converting the internally voltage regulated alternator to an externally voltage regulated alternator?

Question 2: Is there a one wire, externally regulated alternator part # that only has the field input, and is rated at 55amp +?

KISS,
J
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  #148  
Old 03-31-2020, 09:10 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pecanflyboy View Post
I have an auto alternator (Duralast 14824, 55amp) that is internally regulated as purchased from Autozone. I'm am pairing this with a B&C external regulator.

Question 1: I need to convert the round 3 pin (B+ not included) internal regulator to a one wire field input from the external regulator. The only information I've found is the Lynn French document which is not comprehensive and a bit confusing. Is there another approach for converting the internally voltage regulated alternator to an externally voltage regulated alternator?
Just did this to a Denso last week, good article in Kitplanes last Nov. Also last March or thereabouts.

Basically what I did was to ground one side of the brushes and bring a lead for the other side out for the regulator. I ended up using techniques from each of the Kitplanes articles.
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  #149  
Old 03-31-2020, 12:33 PM
pecanflyboy pecanflyboy is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Granbury, Texas
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Kitplane article:

Rewiring a Nippondenso Alternator

https://www.kitplanes.com/rewiring-a...so-alternator/

https://www.kitplanes.com/alternator...major-surgery/

After reading these articles, I'm not a fan of either option. Is there a 50+amp auto alternator that I can get at the local auto parts supply that is single wire (no internal voltage regulator)? I'd need a part number or a make/model/year. I have a Duralast 14824, but it has the round 3 pin internal voltage regulator.

JC

Last edited by pecanflyboy : 03-31-2020 at 02:41 PM.
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  #150  
Old 08-05-2020, 11:12 PM
amaris amaris is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Santa Ynez, CA
Posts: 269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_ascent View Post
There are lots of old threads on using auto alternators. I've read through lots of those and it's still not clear what a good direction is. I'd like a 50+ amp, external regulator alternator. Preferably counter clockwise rotation. Also, I'd prefer not to have to swap the pulley to a single groove pulley. Anyone gone down this path recently?

Another thing I'm unclear about is the mounting bracket and whether the alternators require different brackets. There seem to be some previous discussion on this. Where is the best place to find the brackets?

There is always the B and C route but I'd like to understand the auto options better before making my final decision.
Did you get any further along? After reading a lot of pages about this, I still don't have a clear idea if there's a bolt on option that won't require modification. I don't have a lathe and spending 10 hours of my time to rewire or modify a cheap alternator or get someone to fabricate a bracket, I'd just as well buy a B&C.

(I'm going to be mounting a IO 360 M1B)
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