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RV-10 door pin travel question

Mike D

Well Known Member
Does anyone have a picture of the door pin in both closed and open position?

Seems the pin has 1.25 inch travel, but the blocks are only 0.75 inch deep.
So how do the pins stay in the blocks when open? Do they protrude 3/4 inch when open? If this is the case, how do you get a close seal (fore and aft direction)
 
Mike,
I am not sure what you are saying. I have the Plane Around center latch system, and my handle rotates 180 degrees. My pins are essentially flush with the door delrin guides when the door is open and when the door is latched, extend through the delrin block mounted on the fuse, into the cabin vertical support and protrude around 1/2"-3/4" as I recall.
 
THANKS!!!

humm...
If i make my pins flush when open, they will protrude 1.25" when closed. This is a 90-deg turn on the handle (stock setup)

maybe I have answered my own question here.:eek:

If I make them flush when open, then they will push into the door frame whn closed (like their supposed to). But when open, they will have 3/4" of block to keep them aligned.

I think what messed me up was the longer blocks I saw from Plane Around. So, now I'm not sure why they make them longer.
 
Mike,
You should really consider the center latch system for several reasons. The main being safety, but if you plan on using the McMaster Carr seal, you will need the extra pull the center cam provides. It is impossible with the center latch, to screw up closing the door properly.
 
door pins

I completely agree with Bill. I have just finished aligning the door pins, magnetic switches and the Planearound cam locking system.

I tried to misalign the doors and operate the door handle but couldn't.

i could only get my door safety lights to operate when the door pins were fully extended into the door frame.

I am using the Mcmaster door seals as well. good luck
 
I have considered the Plane Around latch. But I am not completely happy with their design. So for now I am going to "roll my own" center door latch.

I am using the McMaster Carr seals, but there is too much gap. I have not joined the door skins yet, but there is more than 1/4" gap in places. This wont be taken up when the door is joined and trimmed. There is a larger seal available, but I don't want to go that way because I would not be happy with the look.

Just a little picky I guess.
 
Just make sure that when closed, the pins go thru the airframe, not just the delrin blocks; and the bevel should be all the way thru, so the entire round pin is thru the airframe, not just the beveled end.
 
Just make sure that when closed, the pins go thru the airframe, not just the delrin blocks; and the bevel should be all the way thru, so the entire round pin is thru the airframe, not just the beveled end.

What Bob said is very important.

I had to modify one of my gear racks to get enough travel, due to the previous owner changing things a bit so he could install a lock in the door mechanism.

Drilled a hole and tapped 6-32 into the end of the rack, and removed the rivet that is used to limit rack travel. Washer and screw with blue locktite.

I got just over a quarter inch more travel-----which was enough to fully engage the alum structure.

PC160026.jpg


PC160025.jpg
 
I am using the McMaster Carr seals, but there is too much gap. I have not joined the door skins yet, but there is more than 1/4" gap in places. This wont be taken up when the door is joined and trimmed. There is a larger seal available, but I don't want to go that way because I would not be happy with the look.

I'm a little confused by your statement. If you haven't joined the door skins together, how can you measure you have a 1/4" gap? Until they are joined and trimmed, I would think it impossible to make accurate measurements.
 
Please consider

+1 more to the 3rd latch. I hate to beat a dead horse but I feel the need to get preachy for future builders who may see this and are still on the fence about going with the Planearound.com 3rd latch system... DO IT! There is absolutely no reason not to. Its safer, it works great, and its cheap insurance to the most looming possibility for an in-flight accident on the RV-10.

Here is a link to purchase:
http://planearound.com/NEW-DOOR-180-KIT-NEW180.htm


Link to a great retrofit write up:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=55429

Link to a video explanation of the system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRF42r5OBhA
 
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I wasn't originally on board with the Plane Around third latch system, my door was closing just fine with the factory set up. If the doors are fully latched they are safe with or without the third latch. What the Plane Around latch system did for me is take it from a two hand operation to a one hand operation. With the Plane Around third latch I no longer have to reach behind the seat pulling in the back corner of the door, making it much more fool prove in my opinion.
 
Thanks for the reply everyone.
Please don't think I am not implementing the great features of the Plane Around solution. I am just doing it in a different way to solve for the parts that I don't like. This is experimental, so I am experimenting. :)

I should mention I am a industrial designer in my day job. So I am always considering the human factors and user experience elements of what I am doing. The Plane Around system does solve the issue, just not as elegant as I want it to be. Not being a perfectionist, but just building the plane I want.

I really like Mike's solution to the rack stops. I may implement this even though I could use the stock solution. I like that a flat surface is meeting another flat surface but I need to think about the force direction change.

The gap I am measuring is from the seal to the inside door skin. There will be some gap reduction when the door is assembled and trimmed, but I have a lot more gap than that.

Some days I think it is just too easy, and other days I have know idea how anyone does this. (building a -10)
 
T

The gap I am measuring is from the seal to the inside door skin. There will be some gap reduction when the door is assembled and trimmed, but I have a lot more gap than that.

It's not unusual to have that and when using the McMaster seal you will often have to build up the flange so that the seal is the proper distance from the door. Some places I had to grind down, others I had to build up. Once the distance to the door is right, you can grind down/build up the backside of the flange so that it is the proper thickness to hold the seal.
 
Mark, Thanks! I will need to adjust the door flange for sure. Just worry about modifying the top too much.
 
The reveal between the inner door skin and the seal edge should be no less than 1/4 inch. That's if you are using either the 1120A311 or 1120A411 door seal from McMaster.
 
I have considered the Plane Around latch. But I am not completely happy with their design. So for now I am going to "roll my own" center door latch.

I am using the McMaster Carr seals, but there is too much gap. I have not joined the door skins yet, but there is more than 1/4" gap in places. This wont be taken up when the door is joined and trimmed. There is a larger seal available, but I don't want to go that way because I would not be happy with the look.

Just a little picky I guess.

Mike,

All advice above is excellent. I would add two things if you have not glued the doors yet. One is install the third latch before gluing the doors together as I believe Bill Peyton has done. And two. DO NOT use the dimple index on the skins from Vans...build spacers for the door to be set in, to correctly locate the door in the cabin top frame. There are a number of RV10 doors that sit too low in the cabin top including ours, because of the dimple not being in correct location. The result of being low is a very small flange on lower door and having to trim the cabin top down for Sean's latch to clear. Also, If I had to do my doors over, I would glue them with the Lord adhesive from Aerosport Products.
 
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