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Show us your panel !!!!!

Engravings

All the holes, engravings, and paint done by Front Panel Express. Just down load their free design software and design your panel. Email them your design and 5 days later you'll have a completed panel with powder coated paint per your specifications. The best part is when you're designing your panel, the program keeps track of how much each hole and engraving will cost you. My panel, delivered to Wisconsin, cost $432, $5 shipping charge.
 
Design Stage

I'm starting the design of my panel, so here's an early prototype.

Some points:
  • It'll have 2 Garmin G3X displays unless they release a single large display soon.
  • Avoiding extending the panel into the leg area any, so it's a little cozy.
  • The RockRack style (APEM) switches take up a lot of room, but I like them.

Still trying to decide whether to mount the iPad Mini Horizontally or Vertically. I'd rather it be mounted semi-permanently to the panel and not on an articulating mount.

Thoughts on the panel?

Thanks!
Russ

DSC00867.JPG
 
Hey Russ,
Boy those switches take up a lot of room.
You will find that while using the G3X with GMC305 a TO/GA button would be nice.
If your intentions are to use the Mini B as a back-up instrument for IFR then more line of sight would be much better.
Most install just to the Left of the PFD. Above the radio stack gets it out of view.
Oops, after looking again I see that you have no IFR nav source so I guess this is a VFR panel. so why then the backup Mini B?
 
I appreciate the feedback Mark.

Yep, it's VFR for now. The Mini B is a backup for Airspeed & Altitude and even Attitude in case I get into a bad vis situation (haze or at night). It's inexpensive enough and I like the completely different manufacturer backup aspect.

The more I look at the switches... the more I wonder about them.

What's a TO/GA button do?

Thanks!
Russ
 
I dont have the GTN650 yet and still have some more placards to make but, this is essentially it!

IMG_0945.JPG


The VP-X really makes it cool!

The only fuses are for the backup battery.

Best of all, no smoke when I hit the big red switch!

I am gonna love flying this computer!

:cool: CJ
 
Russ...I don't think you are going to like the iPad that far to the right unless it is angled toward you. I have the rami mounts, which does push it off the panel but it gives the ability to move it around a bit and angle it toward me, which gives better viewing and access to.

Also, you say VFR now, do you intend make it IFR in the future? If so, you haven't left any room for growth in this panel. So you would be starting with a fresh new panel to cut...if you are ok with that then fine. Otherwise you may reconsider this one and leave space for a future (insert you IFR nav equipment) here.

just my thoughts.
 
Good points Ryan. The NAV upgrade options have been nagging at me a bit. Maybe there will be a remote box solution for a certified WAAS GPS based Nav that can integrate into the Garmin displays. The existing Nav solutions have really tiny displays.

For the iPad... I wasn't going to make it an important Pilot aid. Mostly planning and co-pilot usage.

Thanks,
Russ
 
Boy those switches take up a lot of room

+1! Only my opinion, but since you asked... From the looks of things, you could use toggle switches and place them under the G3X screens - same for the switches in the middle. It would then free up the left of the EFIS for the back up Mini B, and free up the center stack for future upgrades for an IFR panel - GPS, second radio, audio panel, etc.

I also second the iPad comment. I LOVE the iPad's aviation capabilities, but the screen is an exercise in frustration in a bubble canopy. I imagine having it fixed - especially at that angle - would reduce it's already sketchy readability in bright conditions. The beauty of the mini is its perfect knee board size.
 
Hmmm... this talk about the mongo RockRack switches is good food for thought. If I want to stay simple and light, standard toggles may be the way to go.

There's a fair amount of complexity in illuminating the 2 RockRack LEDs independently. Below is a photo of the wiring needed to switch the lower LED on & off on a 2nd pole. Not shown is wiring for the negative side of the LEDs and the wiring of the item actually being controlled by the switch (to VP-X). Not exactly the definition of simple...

DSC00875.JPG
 
Russ,
The TO/GA buttom is a simple decrete input that sets up the Autopilot for a pre-specified take-off angle and same for Go-around during a missed. Mostly IFR stuff. You can fly like a Cirrus pilot hands off most of the flight. Hit the buttom before take off and then a few feet off the ground when you hit the A/P button it assume the pitch up attitude you have pre programmed. Same for a go around. Use a little Red button switch and mount it beside the GMC.
You will notice that most panels look almost the same as that is what works.
PFD dead infront of the pilot (I first thought I should cener the two. Wrong)
MFD to it's right side
Radio stack in the middle (Most stack are even in the same order)
Switches below
Back-up usually beside or right below the PFD (our panels don't leave room for below) (To the left beside the PFD keeps it in close to direct view)

Have fun with it.
 
...
Thoughts on the panel?

Thanks!
Russ

DSC00867.JPG

Here are some thoughts:
1. Don't mount the iPad, they age off too quickly to make a permanent part of any panel.
2. Mount the headset plugs on the sides, below the rail so the wires just drop along your legs and don't get caught in the canopy.
3. Move the flap switch to the right so you don’t have to move your hand from the throttle to raise or lower the flaps.
4. Dump the annunciators, your EFIS will have all you need built in.
5. Go with the Dynon D2 rather than the AFS Mini B. The reason is you can move it around as needed and you won’t take up your much needed radio stack space.
6. If needed, hide the USB ports behind the panel, out of the way and out of site.
7. Install two power ports. You will be surprised at how many things you will plug in to them.

Finally, I don’t know if it is because this is a mock up but your panel just looks overly complicated. Most likely because the switches look like they are sized for Andre the Giant.

Think about arranging your switches by phase of flight rather than function. Thus put all the switches you will need for takeoff and landing close together; taxi & landing lights, fuel pump, carb heat, etc. Starting switches can be grouped together, away from the others so you don’t accidently turn off your ignition in flight. Oh, where are your breakers?
 
Bill:
  1. Good point about the iPad's form factor becoming obsolete. I do tend to stay on the bleeding edge of computing.
  2. Exactly where below the rail are you thinking for the headset switches? I was also thinking about placing them between the seats somewhere.
  3. Flaps: Maybe I don't even need a Flap switch on the panel since I have dual Infinity stick grips.
  4. Annunciators dumped. :)
  5. I understand what you're saying about the D2 vs Mini B, but I already have the Mini B on the way and I really liked what I saw with AFS' other equipment at OSH.
  6. I'll leave the USB ports on the panel for ease of access, with so many devices now USB powered.
  7. I did buy a 2nd Cig Lighter style Power Port. I can add that.
  8. I'm reconsidering the RockRacks more. They'd be fine on a much bigger panel.
  9. Breakers? They're in the VP-X. Though if I have an emergency bus, I'll need a few. Or fuses.

Thanks!
Russ
 
My 7A Panel

Here is a shot of my panel with the EFIS powered up. This panel has not flown yet but it is getting very close.

dsc_4496r.jpg
 
Bill:
2. Exactly where below the rail are you thinking for the headset switches? I was also thinking about placing them between the seats somewhere.
See picture above ^, that was the location I was thinking about. Works great as the wires lay right along side your leg and you can reach the plugs, if you need to and you will be surprised at how many times you need to.

3. Flaps: Maybe I don't even need a Flap switch on the panel since I have dual Infinity stick grips.
Dump it. You are adding complexity (and weight). These planes land just fine without flaps, if it comes to that.

5. I understand what you're saying about the D2 vs Mini B, but I already have the Mini B on the way and I really liked what I saw with AFS' other equipment at OSH.
No big deal. You will be happy with the Mini B.

6. I'll leave the USB ports on the panel for ease of access, with so many devices now USB powered.
7. I did buy a 2nd Cig Lighter style Power Port. I can add that.
No big deal. I had my USB ports hidden on the sub panel and they were easy enough to get to.
I installed a nice double marine powerport that I bought at West Marine but I cannot find it on line. It looked like a this.
In searching for it, I found this double plug with USB ports that looks it could be modify to fit nicely in your panel (remove the clear cover?). (They also make triple plugs, which wouldn't take up much more space.) Originally I had one plug wired to the always hot bus and one to the avionics master. Later on I rewired them both to the always hot bus and used the breaker on the avionics bus for something else.

Good luck with designing your panel! I really enjoyed this process!
One more suggestion, take your full scale panel mock up and put it some place where you will see it every day. (Mine was in front of my stair stepper.) You will find you will move things around until you are happy with it.

PS. These panel reviews shouldn't be in this thread, only finished panels should be displayed here. You might want to cut this out and put it on it's own thread.
 
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John, nice panel. Where did you get the usb connectors about the Skyview? I am about to do some panel updates and would like to add those. Will sure make update the SV maps/software easier.
 
Version 2.0

Taking advice from comments on this thread, here's my panel version 2.0.

  1. iPad mount is still up in the air. I'll place one on the panel and see how it looks.
  2. Replaced big RockRack/APEM switches with standard toggles. I'll install colored boots on them to help signify function. White for lights, Red for Master & Avionics power, etc.
  3. Moved the headphone jacks to the lower corners.
  4. Moved the GRT Mini-B to the left of main display
  5. Now have room for Radio/Nav expansion
  6. Added a 2nd 12V power port
  7. Leaving USB port on the panel, though it's not shown

Version 1.0
DSC00867.JPG


Version 2.0
Panel_2.0.jpeg
 
Looks very close to what I have planned, except I'm leaning towards a GRT efis (grt, please add real AOA!). Will be interested to see your final design and how you like it.

Chris
 
...Version 2.0
Panel_2.0.jpeg
Comments:
1. The plugs are too far towards the center, mount them under the vents, along the side skin. Where they are now will put them in your way.
2. Raise the Garmin?s
3. Run the switches in a single row on the very bottom of your panel. This gives you a place to rest your hand in bumpy air while you flip a switch. This includes your master and ignition switches. It is way too easy bump a switch while pressing a button on the Mini-B.
4. Put the non-critical switches (cabin & panel dimmer) way over on the right side.
5. Put your alternator field on a pullable breaker. You will only pull it when there is a problem. A number of people have toasted their alternators by testing them during the pre-flight.
6. Your key ring will lay on the cabin rail and scratch whatever paint you have on there.
7. Where is your cabin heat, carb heat, ELT head, etc?

One other thing, by moving the switches out of the ?radio stack?, you give yourself room to add future electronics.
 
Looks pretty good...the only opinions (and they are just opinions) I might add are:

1) Maybe you already have this planned, but I'd put the jacks on the elephant ears under the vents. Leave the cords even more out of the way.
2) Put the backup buss switch over with the other power switches, just because it allows you to keep all the "Power" functions for the plane in one specified area...and keep you from perhaps accidentally bumping the A/P switch when moving your hand back down from where the current backup switch is located back to the throttle where your hand will probably move to.
3) Throw the dimmers over somewhere away from the prime real estate of the radio stack. They for the most part are rarely used, and when they are mostly are a "set it and forget it" type of thing. This just give you space in that premium area to put a spare switch or something now and in the future. Also, that is a good area to put the ELT head as well.

Those are just my 3 cents!

Cheers,
Stein
 
I like this much better Russ. The suggestions are good too. For the switches, have you considered the small boat or car type? Since you have the VP Power system it may be an option.
 
I looked at your new design earlier but had to leave for a FAAST meeting and did not respond. I get back and Bill and Stein have the exact comments.
Very inconvenient spot for the jacks. I actually put mine on the seatback rail between the seats.
You will want the GDU's as high as they will go to get them into your natural view. This will give you room for switches below along the bottom.
Group switches as others have mentioned.
As Bill mentions move the start switch away from the side rail.
I disagree with the alt switch comment. I have mine on the master switch as a double throw switch.
Audio input plug is great over above the rail so that you can mount a iPod or something on tHe rail and it keeps the cord out of the way.

Your getting there and you will love the finished product.
 
USB Cables

Ryan

Regarding Post #820 about the USB ports and cables, I bought two of these off Amazon.com.

Cables to Go 28062 USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Panel Mount Cable (1.5 Feet, Black)

One end plugs into one of the USB ports in the back of the Skyview and the other end mounts to the panel.

John
 
Taking advice from comments on this thread, here's my panel version 2.0.

Version 2.0
Panel_2.0.jpeg

A few things to be aware of with the iPad mini or tablets in general in the cockpit:
1) The iPad mini isn't viewable in the landscape orientation when using polarized sunglasses.
2) The screen isn't all that bright and washes out easily in the sunlight. It also tends to overheat and shutdown in direct sunlight.
3) Being located all of the way on the other side of the panel could make it challenging to use.
4) Tablet technology changes so fast you may not want to commit valuable panel space to a tablet.

I use a Google Nexus 7 in a RAM mount, attached to the F-704K upright cap strip. It works great!

DSCN2990.JPG
 
What Mike said

A few things to be aware of with the iPad mini or tablets in general in the cockpit:
1) The iPad mini isn't viewable in the landscape orientation when using polarized sunglasses.
2) The screen isn't all that bright and washes out easily in the sunlight. It also tends to overheat and shutdown in direct sunlight.
3) Being located all of the way on the other side of the panel could make it challenging to use.
4) Tablet technology changes so fast you may not want to commit valuable panel space to a tablet.

Concur w/ above, and I'll add:
5) Glare is an issue, and flat-to-panel installation may be disappointing.
The aircraft environment was probably not a design requirement; sight angle and interior/exterior reflections are an ongoing challenge.
Articulating mount, and matte anti-glare coating have helped me; YMMV...
 
N771RG

35iyhx0.jpg


I built the panel myself with a wiring harness from Pacific Coast. I've saved a bit of real estate on the left side for an autopilot, but really, so far, I've not missed it, flying VFR only. I'm holding off on ADS-B until I can get in and out complete. When in built the plane I was not yet a pilot, so the layout was a gamble, but I'm thrilled that it serves me perfectly, and is a joy to use.

Bob Mulholland
KAPA
FLYING SINCE 2008
Dues for 2014 Paid in Full ( thanks Doug for the site)
 
Finished Panel

I've posted several photos of this panel in progress over the last couple of years - but it is now finally finished! (at least as much as any panel is ever finished :rolleyes:).

batLS4zrNow9uyZKm0HN_dqx_Y0D-BvVk7LkbjXPm8gNOpgCmqMz8W6BLhg7DrTUbLooEz_p8T-hbYGEPk49-c77q7epTkijBAPxs4SoPl5RYEy1nu_R5TiKsx5VW1KG1IQc55rYiQkkmyJF9e-wFh5hy06Q9_coRa7yzLQEqoPivuP4GYk2fMS7kjfzTpZuDmznCEKUl87RiaFc6LjOU6d-7lYCMkqEait8DSS1tzlkggqTKnmHzh-Wu4a3GNvk3KXx3J6QpAENBM1JVL0hKIbie_HhjWpCs9DI8fqqE5B8T0lebfitCXcMmB7pwWEjIWZGMWeDYx-Yo8yXlCcV-nsSppAWGLG80Ru-HEmPTBcXi3TsTK4x1vHpa9yxzZIbDzC7G60Rh0jPZz5fYJ5sPWUZ5MDVHRgrW695DRivaGkClqNOH16fw-DG2wYPrdDdnjKPg4J4N4tHSwFU9RckSX_wEk2ds-OZDNuh2hcxn5-x_plTCVyD7ug3QynPWJSWQLcH1meJJ5sm3h3q1yaL4M36HhvY5c8-qIBZ68vX76GJl0bnYr2vujAScGOgKPIqsuuVDzgvVd8cU6cuKSPGP9UNM5pT-wzYJMkqeVJdav-lFzbA2NYlYkxO1Fb1n0YR8A02k7ZIvzJZ96K1Y1lub9FyDpI9V06l12AhhXTBDqRrdwENQOWzriNmO2P9RfznIPsQR74w-w2JMYdIdigC7im3=w1024-h576
 
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Awesome panel!! I'm jealous that you have the new Dynon control modules for AP and the bugs. My panel is similar but those items didnt exist when we designed and now it seems tough to work them in so that they look as good as you have done. Good job!
 
New G3X panel up an running, OTS for 6 weeks for the upgrade :eek:
Panel design by me, CAD/CNC work by "UpNorthaviation"
Some old and some new, I couldn't give up my round AS indicator or MVP-50 engine analyzer.

gxx%252520650d.jpg
 
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