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Introducing FlyLEDs

Paul from Flyleds

Well Known Member
Advertiser
G'day! My name is Paul, and Flyleds is my venture. I met Andrew (Aiki_Aviator) a few years ago, who had just started building his RV-10. I was excited to be involved in the build of his plane, but I think he was more relieved to have someone with 35+ years of electronics passion do the electrical side for him!
As a result I've been reading VAF for the last few years, including paying dues last year, learning lots, enjoying the trip reports that people post (Hi Vlad!), and appreciating the vast amount of information from the talented folk who contribute to this forum.

Very early on in the build, Andrew briefed me on what he wanted for strobe and position lights for the -10. "I want to be seen!" was the simple request. Having flown night circuits previously with Andrew over metro areas and trying to spot other traffic, I knew exactly what he meant!
So over several months I researched what was available and came up with a few prototypes for strobe and position lights using LEDs.
I came across this very in-depth analysis of a certified product, which I used as my design benchmark.

Another RV-7 builder friend of ours soon asked for a set for his plane as well, and so the process of making a kit of parts for others to be able to build some lights for themselves began.

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Over the last year or so we've sold more kits than I ever expected, many to people who post here. I love answering questions first and then have the customer proceed with their order, and I get an even bigger kick out of getting a fresh order from someone with no prior communication. We must be doing something right!

I tip my hat to all the accountants, doctors, construction and office workers, and (insert your profession/trade here!) who found the courage to start building themselves a plane in their garage. I figured that if you were that crazy, you might be interested in adding soldering to your skills list as well!
I'm also encouraged by the fact that we've sold far more of the DIY kits than we have the built-by-us version. I wrote the instructions for a customer with no prior soldering experience in mind, and I'm happy that plenty of you have had a go as a result. Of course, I?d be happy to assemble yours for you too if required!

What started out as a single design for the RV-10 (which is the same as the -14) became a dual-fit board for the -7 as well. I?ve now had enough response from other customers to have custom boards made for the -9, and more recently for both of the W-715 wingtips on the RV-7 & -8.

Watch this space for a kit for your RV-4, -6 and -8 with W-415 wingtips!

I?ve answered a few common questions below. If you have others, ask away.
Previous customers, please feel free to show off your handiwork!

There's more information and pictures on our website:
 
FAQs

Are you making LED landing lights?
The most common question we get, but sorry, No.
We?re more than happy with our decision to put HID lights in our RV-10. They?re readily available, lightweight, and have reasonable power consumption. Oh, and they?re really bright!

Will the Flyleds kit cause intercom or radio noise? (the second most common question!)
Short answer; No!
I designed the leds using simple resistors for current limiting for a few reasons: simplicity, ease of construction, and importantly, no electrical noise! There are other more efficient ways to drive LEDs, but they are more complex to design, and for you to make, and more components must be added to mitigate electrical noise. The resistors used in the kit dissipate a fair amount of heat, but they are rated appropriately and have a component count = 1.
If you use shielded cable out to the strobe lights, wired as detailed in the installation instructions, there will be no noise generated in your intercom or radio. The position LED circuit can use normal unshielded wire if that?s what you already have available in your wings.

How bright is the Flyleds kit?
More than bright enough! After reading a very thorough analysis of a certified name-brand LED product, I designed the Flyleds kit to produce the same light output as they did. The light output they (and we) produce easily exceeds the FAA minimums.

Which tail light do I use?
The standard tail light will flash in sequence with the wings when used as part of the complete kit. There?s no reason why you couldn?t choose the Stand-alone tail strobe, particularly if you like the custom strobe pattern feature, and just wire it separately to the wing kit.

Can I modify the Flyleds wing boards to be landing lights instead of/as well as strobes?
No. The board is not designed to support the LEDs running continuously. The LEDs will eventually overheat. There?s a reason why those LED spotlights for cars have big heatsinks on them!
Besides, strobes are designed to spread light everywhere-you want to be seen! Landing and taxi lights are focused into beams, which requires reflectors and/or optics in front of the LEDs. Different purpose, different design.

Can I change the custom patterns on the tail strobe?
I program your three custom patterns into the controller chip for you before shipping, and you can choose between them when you?re on the ground. The messages are not reprogrammable later by you unless you have access to a PIC programmer.

Do you offer a guarantee?
Yes, I guarantee you?ll have lots of fun building the Flyleds kit, and I guarantee you?ll get lots of comments about them when they?re on!
The tail LEDs are hand made by me. I have bench run each one of them for 24 hours. If yours fails, I?ll replace it.
In all seriousness, if you can follow the instructions and take your time to solder the components properly, the kit will work as advertised. If something actually fails later on, I?d be very interested to know. There?s always a first!

 
Welcome as a Van's advertiser

First, to be really CLEAR.... I am not complaining... just a caution.
I removed my original Whelen strobe and incandescent light assembly from the tail of my 9A. The power supply box was heavy and located aft.
I used a modified LED flashlight with current limiting for a while, but planned on a better product. Paul's design fit the bill for me.
When I tried to install it... the power supply board would not fit the standard empty space at the back of my rudder. I simply separated the power supply and installed it inside the inspection panel opening at the bottom rear of the fuse.
Ran a red and black wire back to the rest of the assembly and it works great.
Paul offered my money back... but I like it fine the way it is.
Apparently there is sufficient room in an RV10 for the product as is.
So, do some careful measuring if you are doing the tail position strobe.
BTW... mine flashes my initials in morse code now.. which is a bit of whimsy from past days as a ham... using morse on HF radio. Paul can program the light to say anything you want. His cree LED is one of the brightest ever made and he runs it conservatively and with a good heat sink. I think you will like it.
 
Paul,

The original builder of my -10 did not include a tail strobe for some reason. I was looking at the documentation for your tail nav / strobe combination and it looks like you call out shielded wire for that. I have enough conductors going back there to operate the light, but they're not shielded. Have you tested the strobe and know for certain that it makes noise without the shield?

Guy
 
It looks like you have an affordable alternative to pricey certified products Paul. I plan starting an airplane illumination after my Alaska trip. :D
 
+1 for FlyLEDs

I've built one of Paul's wing tip kits for my 10 but have yet to fly with them. I did test all three (tips and tail stobe) on the ground and yes, they are crazy bright. The kit is very complete and easy to assemble with basic soldering skills. Paul is great and like he stated, loves to answer questions. Here are a few pictures of my assembly.

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Does one kit do one Wing?

Just went to order and it isnt quite clear that when you place a 279 dollar USD order what you get in the kit, is that for both wings or one wingtip only at 279 each for the DIY kit?

Looks like a good option
 
Very happy with mine and the service. Paul has helped me troubleshoot a couple of my mistakes, and also helped me out when I recently stepped on a ruined my controller board. Thanks Paul!

Chris
 
Paul,
Have you tested the strobe and know for certain that it makes noise without the shield?
Guy

Actually it's the reverse. The stand-alone strobe didn't cause noise in our RV-10 using unshielded wire. Flightlogic also confirmed this was the case in his plane.
If you're still building I'd consider shielded anyway, until I get enough people confirming it's not a problem!
Note that I do recommend using shielded cable if you're buying the $99 part as part of the complete kit.

It looks like you have an affordable alternative to pricey certified products Paul. I plan starting an airplane illumination after my Alaska trip. :D

Bring on the accelerated product testing! Does anyone get more RV hours in than you Vlad?!

First, to be really CLEAR.... I am not complaining... just a caution.
...When I tried to install it... the power supply board would not fit the standard empty space at the back of my rudder.

I didn't realise that the -9s had a smaller fibreglass profile than the -10 until your troubles. The profile on the -10 is positively huge by comparison. So, to solve that problem, I redesigned the board!

2hmkew1.jpg


The orange board also now includes the magnetic reed switch already mounted to the board, and a cable tie hole so you can anchor the power wires.
The guy who arranged the laser cutting for the metalwork for these lights is building a -9, and I've verified that it's now an easy fit.
Let me know if you want me to swap out your board!


Just went to order and it isnt quite clear that when you place a 279 dollar USD order what you get in the kit, is that for both wings or one wingtip only at 279 each for the DIY kit?

Hi Dave
The kit price is for the two wing boards, the controller, and the required components. I've left the tail strobe as a separate item so that you can choose which one you'd like.
 
What does the magnetic reed switch do?

To change the strobe pattern requires pushing a button, which requires you to unscrew the strobe from the tail.
I wired a reed switch in parallel with the button. Now you should be able to simply hold a magnet to the side of the tail to select your strobe pattern.
An old car speaker magnet I have activates the reed switch from an inch or two away.
 
Paul,

I LOVE the tail strobe I bought from you for my rv4! The strobes are so bright and well built! Thank you.
 
I ordered my kit last week and the communication from Paul has been amazing. Before I ordered I had some questions and he answered the same day. The same thing yesterday when I emailed asking what kind of solder I should get. He said it is included in the kit. If his product is as good as his customer service, I will be a happy camper!!!! Can't wait for the kit to arrive.
 
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Kit just arrived today. Looks great! For someone who knows virtually nothing about electronics, it is quite a task ahead of me. Looking forward to it though.
 
Thanks!

Hi Andy.
Thanks for the compliment!
The closest I have so far is a video we took a while ago which you'll find on our news page.
We lined up two RV-10s nose to nose one afternoon and set the lights blinking.
The owner of the other -10 bought a Flyleds kit after seeing the comparison but he hasn't fitted them yet, so there's still an opportunity for us to set up a quick comparison flight.
Hopefully one evening sometime soon!

 
good enough for night?

It meets mine. Been flying around for four decades... and never met a single person with some kind of meter, to come over and measure my tail light.
I know I have to cover my face when it is powered in the daytime... or I see spots for 15 minutes.
 
Does the tail strobe meet the requirements for night flight?


That certainly was the intention!
3000 lumens, ~140 degrees of coverage. It's bright!

The stand alone model can even blink out a somewhat random pattern of flashes that a keen observer might realise is actually morse code for N688CD...
 
We recently did an install on a RV-4 replacing the old Grimes after building a new rudder. This product is the best performing product for a tail strobe considering features and price point. Paul has done a great job and I highly recommend Flyleds.

If we are able I will link up a night video from a distance to show how well this product makes you seen from a distance. Another person made the video then posted to his FB.
 
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That certainly was the intention!
3000 lumens, ~140 degrees of coverage. It's bright!

The stand alone model can even blink out a somewhat random pattern of flashes that a keen observer might realise is actually morse code for N688CD...

Paul - will you be at OSH this year exhibiting? Would love to stop by and see your products.

Thanks
 
When will the W-415 wingtip boards be available?
Bob burns
Rv-4 n82rb

Hi Bob.
The W-415 boards are 99% ready to go, except for some heat transfer tape which is due any day now.
2j1x454.jpg

The outward facing area is so small that I've extended the board inside the wing to mount the resistors, which is different to the other kits.

The metalwork and clear covers have also been ordered for those who don't already have the wing mods.

Paul - will you be at OSH this year exhibiting? Would love to stop by and see your products.
Thanks

I won't be exhibiting this year, but I am trying to convince myself that I need to come over for what looks like an amazing show!
 
If twenty of you pledge to buy a kit at Oshkosh, I'll exhibit!
I'll bring (a very heavy suitcase and) a soldering iron and show you how easy it is to build your kit. :)
 
FLYLEDS customer support

Some customers may be hesitant to get involved with an electronics assembly project, even though they are builders. Customer support is important if you do. Even with some experience in electronics, I made a mistake and burned up the programming chip in my tail strobe. Paul has shipped a new one, programmed with my N number... and he declined payment for the part.
I have followed years of both good and bad stories on products I purchase. Lightspeed comes to mind. They really support customers.
I see a good future for the LED systems Paul has designed for experimental aviation. They are a competitive alternative to the certified units that carry large developmental and testing costs. And the CREE lights these days are extremely bright if driven properly with well designed power supplies. Radio noise is a non issue with the FLYLEDS. The video posted prior gives some idea of effective radiation. I have read all the detailed FAA specs for years and some of it is rather obscure and emanates from a lab, rather than the real world. In the real world, I simply don't want to get run into by another plane. Paul's products will meet our needs, I am quite sure.
 
Strobes

Ok so strobes were invented to get a bright flash.. Now these LEDs are so bright why bother with strobes? From the video if seems the wing wag is just as effective. But curious if these are bright enough to be effective during the day. I would really love to see a video during a sunny day.

I will be putting these on my 9 gotta love them
 
In my observation, there is nothing short of the sun.... in broad daylight... that will show at half a mile. No strobe, no LED... nada. If you have ever flown near the Las Vegas solar mirror field... then you have seen what really works.
If the clever guys at Aero LED's wanted to, they could invent a tiny mirror ball housed in glass. It could rotate passively by venting a bit of air through the base to spin a rotor disc. The sunlight would hit the aluminum coated reflective bits just like an old dance hall disco ball. Now THAT would show up at a mile.
If they get rich off the idea... tell them you saw it here on Van's first.
Hey Paul, Aussies are quite clever... maybe make a mirror system (and figure out how to get it to reflect on the shady side too... while you are at it)
BTW... this observation does not include the super power landing lights set in wig wag mode. They carry out quite a ways, but are pretty directional.
 
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Great idea

I have an idea to make this work. You are right the sun on a 4 square inch mirror. That should do it. And if there is no sun FLYleds. Brillant.
 
started assembling mine

Today I started assembling mine. First I used the scotchbrite wheel to ground the edges to match the 9's wing tips. Then I started in with his excellent instructions. I haven't done a lot of soldering in my life and know almost nothing about electronics. I got the strobes and the red led's soldered on. It was a blast and I love the way they look. Being able to say I built them is icing on the cake. Can't wait to keep going on them.
On a side note Paul realized my kit was shorted a couple pieces as he was assembling a kit for another customer so he emailed me about it and shipped them out same day. Great service so far!!!!
 
From your picture I can't fault your soldering work, Dave.

Just the right amount of solder, nicely flowed and smooth joints. 10/10!
 
Looks cool, but the Products, News, Information and Contact Us sub-pages on your site are throwing 404 (not found) errors:

flyleds.jpg
 
Some new products

Hi all.
Firstly, to Bob (and others), the W-415 boards to suit the -4 and -6s are now ready to order!

Introducing a new product I've imaginatively called The Skinny.
Designed for those of you with landing lights already in your wingtips, and you can't bear the thought of slicing into your leading edges to move them...
sfudxh.jpg

The boards are sold as a $20 addition to one of our kits. Simply use the 1" wide Skinny board on your forward facing light panel instead of the regular Flyleds board.
It should leave you with plenty of room for your existing halogen lights, or even room for an LED spot light, as per the Baja Designs LED spots some of you are installing.
It won't be as bright as using the full Flyleds board, but you'll still need eye protection!



 
The Skinny

I had contacted Paul about being able to use my existing Creativair Halogens with FlyLed's. He was already in process of designing "The Skinny." Here is one mounted. The Skinny requires about an inch inboard of the light. Paul provided some heat transfer tape that allows my Alum. light mount to be used as a heat-sink for the strobes. I haven't run the (-) negative wire back through to wing the control board for the strobes, but they are very bright on the test stand. I have a 7A with Bat-Wingtips(curved trailing edge.)
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Oshkosh

G'day all.

I'll be visiting Oshkosh this year from Monday to Wednesday. (Woohoo!)

If anyone was thinking about buying a Flyleds product, I'd be more than happy to bring your kit to the show and hand deliver it to you.

That's a $30 saving in freight, or a 10% discount on a wing kit.

Actually, I'll extend the offer to: ALL orders placed before the end of Thursday 21st July will be posted for free.
There's an Oshkosh discount even if you're not attending!
(Select Oshkosh shipping, and in the order comments, write "Please post" or leave your cell number so I can find you there.)


In other news:
I have been waiting (and waiting, and waiting) for Van's to supply me with the parts required to modify the RV4/6 flat-top wings.
I will have the lenses and the last of Van's stock of the W-431 metalwork for six only kits at the show.
More lenses will be available after that, but the metalwork will be a DIY task for you instead.
Please email if you're interested!


 
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Ordered your tail unit and received in good order, this thing is Bright! one question, is there a way to run the tail light, and then with another power lead turn on the strobe? right now it is setup to have both when power is applied but what if I want to turn off the strobe portion while we taxi at night?
 
G'day Bret.

The easiest way for you would be to power yours from the Strobe panel switch instead. However you will be switching the position light function as well, of course.

You're not the only person to ask for this ability, so I've designed MkIII of the stand alone tail light:
33f83v8.jpg

With some extra components and some reprogramming, it now has separate power inputs for the strobe and position light functions.

Happy to swap yours out if you feel the need.
(And if any other previous customers feel the need, please drop me an email).

 
did you get the lenses for the flat top wingtips in stock yet? send me a note when you do so I can get an order in.

bob burns
N82rb rv-4
 
Hey Paul, mine is different than the one in the pic, I only have a +12v and 0v is there anyway to got the one you have in the photo?
 
Hi Bret.
This model is so new, the photo above is of the one and only of it's kind! I'll be making more of them this week.
I'll send you an email to arrange a swap.

Thanks for your patience, Bob!
I had to cancel my trip to Oshkosh for this year, where I'd arranged to pick up my shipment of parts.
A friend is bringing the lenses back to Aus for me this week, and I'll let you know when I have them ready to order.

 
Hi Bret.
This model is so new, the photo above is of the one and only of it's kind! I'll be making more of them this week.
I'll send you an email to arrange a swap.

Thanks for your patience, Bob!
I had to cancel my trip to Oshkosh for this year, where I'd arranged to pick up my shipment of parts.
A friend is bringing the lenses back to Aus for me this week, and I'll let you know when I have them ready to order.


That is great! I'll wait for your email. Thanks. Bret
 
thanks paul, set aside a set for me with the wing lights, and that new tail light. just let me know when they are available and we will get the ball rolling.


bob burns
RV-4 N82RB
 
Paul,

I have a 6A with the 415 wingtips. However, I don't have the light enclosure add on for them. Do you make anything to replace the old style, exterior bolt-on style nav/pos/strobe lights? I would like to go LED and appreciate the value of DIY kit.

Thanks,

Larry
 
Hi all.

A couple of customers building their kits have had issues with non-blinking lights, and invariably the problem has been that they didn't use enough heat to mount the small switching components under the controller board.
A simple reheat with the soldering iron and a little fresh solder fixes this problem.
Seeing as how I have the right tools here (a reflow oven and solder paste (solder in a syringe)), we will now supply the controller boards with the surface mounted parts already fitted.

2dj5ou8.jpg


You still get to fit and solder all of the other components on the boards, so we haven?t taken all the fun away? :)


 
Flyleds review

I've built and placed the flyleds into my RV 7A with great results. Here is a short video of my flyleds building adventure and flight. My concern of radio noise was wasted worry.... I'm happy to report there is no radio noise whatsoever. Highly recommend this product.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w0dc2MU1n4
 
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