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Cracked steps

skiandtom

Member
I experienced a cracked starboard side step on my RV-7A. I discovered it while preflighting the airplane. I knew cracks can occur so part of my preflight procedure is to run my finger under the step at the inside top of the step where the cracks normally occur. After pondering the removal process, I decided removing the entire baggage area floor was not necessary. So after studying the applicable drawing I decided to cut a small oval shaped hole over the inner bolt retaining the step. I have an oval shaped panel to pop rivet over the hole. 8E780F87-DB86-4AC0-B801-0E57CD4B5192.jpg
 

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Hmmm, would have taken 5 extra minutes to drill the rivets and save all the cussing come time to put it all back together, plus the time to make a cover plate.
 
Hmmm, would have taken 5 extra minutes to drill the rivets and save all the cussing come time to put it all back together, plus the time to make a cover plate.
It takes hours to drill out the entire floor. It took me about 15 minutes to cut the hole and cut a cover plate.
 
Hmmm, my drill bits must be sharper:)

As a thought, maybe make the access hole bigger, than you have a bit of a cubby hole you could store the odd qt of oil, etc.
 
When I changed from tail wheel to A model, I had to drill out the floor rivets to install the blocks. I cant imagine trying to do it through a hole. It took about 15 minutes to drill the rives out - another 15 min to vacuum all the shavings but it sure made it easier to install the steps. Maybe just removal and replacement can de done with the hole. Post how it goes since most of the steps not reinforced will need to be.

Edit: I did not remove the entire baggage floor. I drilled out enough rivets to peal it back enough to get the blocks installed. I tied it up with wire to be out of the way. It took a bit more work to get it riveted back down to line everything up but really was a non event.
 
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I had to pull my baggage floor up once during construction, took about 10 or 15 minutes and made the next bit of work way easy and worth it.
 
Second block

I cant remember if the plans called for this, but when I was doing the steps, I wanted to make sure they were solid. I had them reinforced and added a second plastic block at the fuselage wall. It probably wasnt necessary and will surely transfer the stresses somewhere else - hopefully not causing my plane to twist apart but it does feel very solid using them.
 

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I installed a modified step on my 7 passenger side this summer. Used a small punch to drive out the pins in the pop rivets first. Only took about 20 min to drive the pins and drill out the rivets. I didn't do the very back rivets. Just did as rockwoodrv9 did and tied the floor panel up out of the way. Quick and painless allowing easy access.
 
You guys are much more efficient than I am. I had to drill out both sides of the baggage floor (I decided I wanted steps on my RV7 taildragger). It took me at least 4 or 5 hours! Made me decide to install nut plates and use screws when I re-installed the floors.
 
anti-splat had a tip many years ago about pumping in silicone to the step vertical portion by way of a couple drilled holes. I did that and remember before when I tapped the step with a piece of metal it would sing, after the silicone it would not.
 
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anti-splat had a tip many years ago about pumping in silicone to the step vertical portion by way of a couple drilled holes. I did that and remember before when I tapped the step with a piece of metal is would sing, after the silicone it would not.

I drilled a small hole in the foot-part of the step and filled it about 1/2 or so with sand, and epoxied the hole closed. The idea being to make it like a dead-blow hammer that wouldn't resonate - no problems so far.
 
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