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tool kits

Skeejere

Member
I want to accumulate all the necessary tools to start my RV-10 build. I have looked at the Cleaveland and Planetools.com sites. They offer their "complete tool kits." Are all the tools in the complete tool kits necessary? I want to order whatever is needed to complete the build, but don't want to waste money on things I won't need.
 
Dremel tool, diamond disc to cut canopy, Ti bucking bars, DA sander, painting equipment, one of those air powered guns to apply Proseal, complete set of numbered drills, light weight air line for rivet gun, small tire balancing thing, plumb bobs, level, and more. Many of these are not absolutely necessary but real nice to have. The complete tool kits are just the start.
 
All of the kits include the basic tool set. Most include extra things you will need only a few times during the build. There are a number of things you will need that are not part of the typical kit.

To start the tail cone kit you will need the following as a minimum;

Clecos (300 min silver, 50 min copper) many more will be needed for wings and fuselage (I have over 1000 silver and 300 copper). A few (one pkg of 20 or so) of the larger size will help later on to hold larger nut plates etc..

Cleco pliers (recommend 2 as they are always out of reach when you need them, and they are cheep)

#40 and #30 dimple dies. You will need other sizes as you go along to dimple screw head locations for access plates etc..

C frame or DRD2 and a squeezer to form the dimples (these are expensive, but will serve throughout the build)

#40 and #30 drill bits, micro stops for both, spring stops for both. A fractional and number drill bit set will be useful as you go along.

Drill Battery hand drill will work but an air drill is much lighter and easier to use for large numbers of holes. Air drills are rather expensive. I also prefer the smaller lighter air hose fittings and hose. There are a few holes where a drill press is a great help later in the build to keep things square and aligned.

Compressor, small 1 hp or so will do just fine for rivet and drilling. Larger will be needed later if you use an air sander or spray primer/paint.

Rivet gun and bucking bars. You will need many bucking bars over the build, some custom made. Buy a tungsten bar up front, you will use it 50:1 over the steel ones.

Deburing tools. A scotchbrite wheel (either 2" on an angle die grinder, or the larger 6" on a small bench top grinder) A hand rotary hole deburr tool. Many others that you can buy over a range of prices. Lots of time spent here, so if your time has value spend to get good tools.

I'm sure I left some off that others will fill in. There are lots of tool threads on tools if you search. Personally There is only one tool I bought that I regret and that is a pneumatic squeezer, expensive and I almost never used it. YMMV

Good luck! It can be (and was for me) a wonderful journey of learning and satisfaction.
 
I'm sure I left some off that others will fill in. There are lots of tool threads on tools if you search. Personally There is only one tool I bought that I regret and that is a pneumatic squeezer, expensive and I almost never used it. YMMV

Good luck! It can be (and was for me) a wonderful journey of learning and satisfaction.

Seems like in addition to your list some of the screw-specific dimples and/or countersinks were needed. And if you do the tail cone to completion there will be some fiberglass trimming and drilling needed with its associated tools.

I?ve seen your sentiment several times about the pneumatic squeezer on the forum and I?m curious what you didn?t like? I have a cp242 and love it. It?s the first thing I reach for whenever possible.
 
In hindsight, the first thing I would buy is a sheet metal class via EAA or Synergy or the like. Tool prefrences are already creeping in here, and there are many pages on these forums on ?what kit should I buy?. If you read all of them, I doubt you?d have the answer even then.

I didn?t originally take a class thinking it was expensive. I paid some additional ?tuition? and ended up taking a class anyway.
 
I?ve seen your sentiment several times about the pneumatic squeezer on the forum and I?m curious what you didn?t like? I have a cp242 and love it. It?s the first thing I reach for whenever possible.

I found the pneumatic squeezer heavy, and awkward. I found it almost always easier and better control to use the hand squeezer.

I used the hand squeezer with the table edge mount https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=5022-DX
The mount really makes small component riveting easy by freeing a hand to hold the part(s). THe squeezer is also a little heavy, but plenty of strength to squeeze the #30 rivets
 
I would give Cleaveland a call and speak with Mike. He built an RV-10 and can tell you that you?ll probably want more than what the kit offers. he also told me which things in the kit i should upgrade to make my life easier.

Do yourself a favor early on. Don?t skimp on tools.
 
Do yourself a favor early on. Don?t skimp on tools.


+1 on this advice. Also +1 on calling Cleaveland. I did this with Avery Tools :)() when I started and it was well worthwhile.

I smile to myself every time my 27 Gallon 220V air compressor starts up. It's quiet and I can have a conversation (albiet elevated) when it's running.

I also smile to myself a little every time I pull my good (Sioux knock off) pneumatic drill that is permanently designated for #30 out of the drawer because I don't have to change bits. Buy 2 drills. I have 1 for #30, 1 for #40, and 1 for everything else.


I use my pneumatic squeezer enough to justify it but this is definitely a personal choice.
 
Skeejere:

On my RV7 Vans Preview plans manual has a section3: tools and work space
which has a list of hand/ power tools, drill bits, taps, cleco's etc. and I suppose you have that for the RV10, what I'll say is you'll always need more tools
 
Dremel tool, diamond disc to cut canopy....

On my RV-3B, I tried my Dremel and diamond disk. It worked but was slow, very slow. I switched to a cut-off disk on a die grinder and that was smooth, fast and precise. It did use a lot of air.

For clecos, get only the Wedgelock brand. For dimple dies, get only the Cleaveland brand.

I tried a hand squeezer and immediately switched to a pneumatic one - so much easier. Life is too short for the two-handed effort of a hand squeezer.

Dave
 
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Mentor

In hindsight, the first thing I would buy is a sheet metal class via EAA or Synergy or the like. Tool prefrences are already creeping in here, and there are many pages on these forums on ?what kit should I buy?. If you read all of them, I doubt you?d have the answer even then.

I didn?t originally take a class thinking it was expensive. I paid some additional ?tuition? and ended up taking a class anyway.

That's the best advise in the thread. Either take a class or find a local Mentor. A few hours building a practice kit will introduce yiu to most if not all the basic tools. You will leave with valuable knowledge of which tools you want/need. Tools are so personal.
 
Numatx squeezer

I got the Numatx squeezer. It has a foot trigger so most of the weight is on the floor. A little spendy, but I use it all the time. I've been very happy with it.
 
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