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DRDT2 Built into a EAA 1000 table?

JDA_BTR

Well Known Member
I built two EAA tables, and just happen to have some more 3/4 ply left over; enough to build another table with the top split down the middle. Soooo I'm thinking of building another EAA table, split in the center to take the DRDT-2. I could just bolt it on top, and might do that. I might also could sink the DRDT-2 down in the middle and build the top up to it at the right level. Or I could bolt the DRDT-2 onto the cross-piece 2x4s and then build the top up to the level of the dimpler.

I'm inclined to bolt it on top and fabricate a shelf just for the dimpler. Otherwise it seems it will be too low to operate easily.

Has anyone solved this problem and have any ideas about better/worse ones?

How much does it help to have the carpeted support on either side of the dimpler?
 
Either way works, it was very helpful to have my dimpler built into the table. I just bolted the C-Frame to the table and made some table top extensions with carpet on top to bring the tabletop level to the dimpler.
 
I too used leftovers to make a dimpling table. Mine is smaller though and works well for my height. I haven't yet needed extensions beyond what were indicated by the DRDT-2 instructions.

I do say yet...as I have yet to dimple wing or fuse skins. I had no issues with the tail feather skins. I found that the smaller table made for less strain on bends.

 
Build the little carpeted table..

..that way you have flexibility with how and where you can dimple. The little instructions that came with the DRDT2 show you how to build the little table, just like in the pic in the post above. IMHO, that's wokred best. I didn't even bolt mine down. When I need it to be fixed, I clamp it to my table with C-clamps. The width of the base is similar to the EAA table width (short direction).
 
..that way you have flexibility with how and where you can dimple. The little instructions that came with the DRDT2 show you how to build the little table, just like in the pic in the post above. IMHO, that's wokred best. I didn't even bolt mine down. When I need it to be fixed, I clamp it to my table with C-clamps. The width of the base is similar to the EAA table width (short direction).

I second (or third or fourth or whatever) this. I did mine differently at first. Thought I was being fancy by building it into a big table but found that different pieces called for different arrangements and I had to pull it out of the table.

Built in is fine for flat pieces but things like leading edges require you to be more flexible.
 
Dudley,

I have built the -2 into the tables.

Use the EAA tables and use a 2x12 on each end, this will be the vise.

Use 1/2 bolts to tighten the vise and the -2 will slide out for ribs and will
Slide back for skins.

I just got done with tables and will post as soon as I get the -2 (leg less) in from Paul.

There are pics under SHOP on my web page.
I like the new design better though.
You can stow the -2 upside down with this design.
 
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I built mine into the table. I used 2x12 cross pieces as the support for the dimpler frame. Both of my tables are on wheels, so that made it easy to arrange them for a wide expanse of support when dimpling wing and fuselage skins.

My DRDT-2 just went into a storage unit. If anyone in the Austin area needs one, mine won't be in use for a while....
 
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