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Firewall recess rivets

msmst25

Well Known Member
I've screwed up three straight rivets trying to attach the firewall recess (F-1001-K) to the rudder brace. The rivet gun with mushroom head doesn't fit into the recess, and my various methods involving strange combinations of bucking bars did not work.
Would this combination of tools work for these rivets
https://www.cleavelandtool.com/coll...k-riveting-bucking-bar?variant=18378216800318
https://www.cleavelandtool.com/coll...ucts/back-rivet-set-12?variant=18378216734782
Seems like a lot to spend to put in 5 rivets, but I feel like I'm going to ruin the firewall assembly with the way I'm trying to do it.
An offset mushroom rivet set seems like it would work, but I haven't seen one of those.
https://flic.kr/p/2jXektc
 
2x gun may fit

Matt,
What size rivet gun do you have, is it perhaps 3x, from the photo it looks like it might be? A 2x gun is shorter overall and could fit within the recess. If you can borrow one from another builder nearby you then that might work out, sorry I am a long way away!

Otherwise, pulled rivets may be an option to check with Vans.

Paul.
 
Avoid pulled rivets in the firewall. Those rivets are best set by backriveting. Any bucking bar should work with the manufactured head and a mushroom set (not the type with the rubber ring) will get you onto the shop head side. I wrapped a rag over the body of the gun so I could put it right up against the firewall without marring the surface. That long backrivet set would also probably work well.
 
What Patrick said.. Two people, Large bucking bar and back rivet. Invest in a back rivet head for your gun, there will be other places you will use it.
 
Good day Matt,

Just completed this step last week. l used standard riveting for the lower 4 rivets with the the gun/mushroom at an angle as it didn't fit in the recess but holding it firmly worked really well. For the top one used back riveting as it was too close to the inside angle for the mushroom.

Best regards,

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I just recently assembly this section for the first time and I noticed that even though the recess doesn't have these same 5 holes on the opposite side, the part F-1001E-R does. Do these need to be match drilled into the recess and riveted, or are the holes in the right center angle just ignored?
 
I used this set
https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/11/Level/a/ProductID/14/Default.aspx
I also used this set for all of the 'open field' riveting after I purchased it. I was much less likely get a smiley from miss-alignment of the gun.

On the other hand, if you don't have a back rivet set you should buy one. Perhaps not the really long one, but they are fantastic. I never had one slip off the rivet. With a good smooth bucking bar (or surface) the rivet quality was the best quality and consistency I found.
 
Good day Tim,

I personally ignored them, I don't believe the recess has to be matched drill on the opposite side, it is nowhere mentioned...
 
Good day Tim,

I personally ignored them, I don't believe the recess has to be matched drill on the opposite side, it is nowhere mentioned...

Thanks, I figured it was probably safe to ignore them but wanted to check since the plans are a little less detailed with the fuse.
 
I had the same question so I asked Vans. You do not need to install the rivets on the right side. The F-1001E-R and L are the same part before bending, just bent for right and left. The 5 holes in the R can be left untouched/riveted.
 
I had the same question so I asked Vans. You do not need to install the rivets on the right side. The F-1001E-R and L are the same part before bending, just bent for right and left. The 5 holes in the R can be left untouched/riveted.

That definitely makes sense. Thanks for the confirmation!
 
Problem solved

I ended up getting a number 2 rivet gun, which fit in there very well. I find that I like it more for doing all of the skin riveting, too, so I'm glad I got it.
 
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