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Modifications that you have Made to your RV-12 after Certification? E-LSA Only!

Hi,
can you give me some information how you did it? Especially considering the wiring? I own a RV-12 ULS (still with the D180) and I am also thinking about adding the trim and AP disconnect to the yoke. However, Vans couldn't help me with it and now I am not sure how to approach the change. Do you have a wiring scheme you are willing to share?

Thanks!
Oops, sorry I never look here.
What are you referring to "how you did it"?
The wiring is not all that complex if you understand schematics. The stick grip has a common ground and all the functions are switches that get grounded when they are operated. When ground is applied to say the trim up wire the trim servo moves up. The same when ground is applied to the com wire the radio transmits.
 
If you ever have to “top off” your tank adding a clear hose coupler is a good way to tell when you are full so you don’t overfill onto the windshield / paint. A 12” piece of hose is $9 and makes 3 couplers. I have this on the RV-12 classic tank.

filler coupler.JPG
 
Center console and armrest

Added a center console and armrest for my RV-12iS. Replaces the factory flap motor cover/cup holder. Provides a fair amount of storage with two padded covers that also function as an armrest.

Also replaced the twill carpet seat cushions with genuine naugahyde.
 

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In the April 2022 issue of EAA's Sport Aviation magazine, Vic Syracuse, in his article "Impediments to Selling," states "The only way you can make modifications are with authorization from the manufacturer." He goes on to say that doing so "invalidates the airworthiness certificate." I recently purchased an RV-12 from the builder and I am totally confused.
 
In the April 2022 issue of EAA's Sport Aviation magazine, Vic Syracuse, in his article "Impediments to Selling," states "The only way you can make modifications are with authorization from the manufacturer." He goes on to say that doing so "invalidates the airworthiness certificate." I recently purchased an RV-12 from the builder and I am totally confused.

S-LSA or E-LSA?
 
In the April 2022 issue of EAA's Sport Aviation magazine, Vic Syracuse, in his article "Impediments to Selling," states "The only way you can make modifications are with authorization from the manufacturer." He goes on to say that doing so "invalidates the airworthiness certificate." I recently purchased an RV-12 from the builder and I am totally confused.

This is true for S-LSA, not for E-LSA.
 
The article states specifically:

"Be sure to ask the seller of an E-SLA if any modifications have been made to the aircraft post certification without authorization from the manufacturer."

Perhaps the author meant S-SLA.
 
I'm about to begin building an RV-12Is-T equivalent, Dual G3XT's, Basically an IFR trainer with all options in the panel.

I have been spoiled having dual com radios and I wanted to add a second com to this airplane. Both Van's and Stein Air refused to help out stating it is not part of the approved package... Understood. It can't be added until after Certification.

The G3XT is fully capable of controlling a com 2. I am wondering if a second com would exceed the electrical capacity of the 912is Sport... Especially with all of the electrical options offered by Van's installed on the airplane?

Has anyone put in a second com after getting their 12 certified?
 
Thanks for the info.

I'm thinking about the Garmin GTR 20 REMOTE COMM, there's not a lot of panel space left!
 

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Flap Switch

Has anyone moved their flap switch from the center console to the panel? And/or, has anyone reversed the switch so that switch up is flaps up, and switch down is flaps down? The position and orientation of the switch drives me crazy!
 
Yup, I immediately reversed the flap switch. I had to call Van’s to confirm the plans were correct. Was told it’s to operate in the direction of a manual flap handle. Since +90% of my flying had been with electric flaps, reversing was a safer option for me. And a friend of mine did add a flap switch to their iS panel.
 
Yup, I immediately reversed the flap switch. I had to call Van’s to confirm the plans were correct. Was told it’s to operate in the direction of a manual flap handle. Since +90% of my flying had been with electric flaps, reversing was a safer option for me. And a friend of mine did add a flap switch to their iS panel.

Thanks! I knew the reason was that they though it should emulate a manual flap handle. But that's bunk! Every pilot I've flown with in the -12 repeatedly moves the switch the wrong way. When you see a switch, you don't think "flap handle". That just doesn't jibe.

If I could, I'd either reorient the switch, or move it to the panel where it would be a lot handier to find and to operate. The way it is just doesn't compute in my mind (or the minds of everyone I fly with).
 
Flap Switch

I moved mine to the panel. Bought a double throw double pole center off momentary one direction switch and one of the switch covers that looks like a "flap" from A.S. and just extended the wiring from the console switch. I left the console switch in place but it is no longer connected.
 
Yes. i reversed my switch from the start.

Has anyone moved their flap switch from the center console to the panel? And/or, has anyone reversed the switch so that switch up is flaps up, and switch down is flaps down? The position and orientation of the switch drives me crazy!
 
Has anyone moved their flap switch from the center console to the panel? And/or, has anyone reversed the switch so that switch up is flaps up, and switch down is flaps down? The position and orientation of the switch drives me crazy!

I removed the factory switch and replaced it with a double throw sustained (non-momentary) switch and relocated it to the front panel.

Much easier to use and access. It also freed up the center for an armrest console that I built.
 

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Has anyone installed the F-12132 headset brackets from the 12iS on a legacy 12? Seems like they'd be handy.
 
EZPZ

A buddy gave me a pair of the F-12132 headset brackets. Took me awhile to figure out where to mount them in my classic 12.
I was investigating the 12iS KAI to see what it would take to add the egress handle to my build. I happened to notice the brackets on Page 29iS/U-08 (rev 1) in SECTION 29iS/U: FWD UPPER FUSELAGE.
Easy install - identify & drill out two rivets, bracket holes line up, pull two new rivets.
The only "issue" is that I have dual screens (no map box). So on the passenger side, the clearance between the bracket and the under panel map tray is a little tight but hanging the headset (at least my DC's) is doable.
 
Rudder Pedal Mods

Anyone got anything better than the typical "bolt a 4x4 to the pedal" option. Looking for a way to "move/rotate) the pedals closer to the short pilots (both sides) feet.
 
Anyone got anything better than the typical "bolt a 4x4 to the pedal" option. Looking for a way to "move/rotate) the pedals closer to the short pilots (both sides) feet.

Updated Pictures!!! Did a fit check yesterday on a flying RV12 ULS and it worked like a champ. 3" standoff on the ones you see. Will go fly with them tomorrow and report back. Will also get photos mounted on the plane. They were rock solid on the fit check!!!
 

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Updated Pictures!!! Did a fit check yesterday on a flying RV12 ULS and it worked like a champ. 3" standoff on the ones you see. Will go fly with them tomorrow and report back. Will also get photos mounted on the plane. They were rock solid on the fit check!!!

What was the source for those extensions?
 
What was the source for those extensions?

I made them here at my shop. It's what happens when you have a CNC machine shop.... a wee bit overkill but I wanted something robust that didn't feel like a hack and wack. Two bolts (per pedal) and you're flying. No modification to the plane needed.

Thinking of making a base plate that fits on the stock pedals to give you a more robust feel.
 
I made them here at my shop. It's what happens when you have a CNC machine shop.... a wee bit overkill but I wanted something robust that didn't feel like a hack and wack. Two bolts (per pedal) and you're flying. No modification to the plane needed.

Thinking of making a base plate that fits on the stock pedals to give you a more robust feel.

The reason I ask is that a lot of us have CNC equipment. I wasn't sure if this was a design that's been mentioned earlier in the thread or elsewhere, or something new you are trying.

Do you intend to make this a product? If not, share more about the design and dimensions since it's working? I might be interested either way. I have the equipment to do it, but also have plenty other things to work on.
 
The reason I ask is that a lot of us have CNC equipment. I wasn't sure if this was a design that's been mentioned earlier in the thread or elsewhere, or something new you are trying.

Do you intend to make this a product? If not, share more about the design and dimensions since it's working? I might be interested either way. I have the equipment to do it, but also have plenty other things to work on.

Hey Nate, Nope this is a new addition. I just didn't like was I was finding out there. Not sure if I will pursue this for a product for my store or not. Will depend on how well it works, ease of taking on and off and if it can be made at a pleasing price point that allows me to not just swap dollars. If I decide not to pursue it I will make the Fusion 360 file available.
 
Updated Pictures!!! Did a fit check yesterday on a flying RV12 ULS and it worked like a champ. 3" standoff on the ones you see. Will go fly with them tomorrow and report back. Will also get photos mounted on the plane. They were rock solid on the fit check!!!

Went and flew the RV12 ULS for 1.5 hours this morning with the new pedals. Did 4 take off and landings. Took a few minutes to adjust muscle memory to the new feel and pedal location but after that all was great!!!! Will be working on a revised version that is slightly easier to get on and off quickly. Hopefully a (1) bolt attachment design. Was amazing at how much more confidence I have with good rudder authority!
 
Do you have your upgrade process detailed anywhere online?
I do not.

The GPS175 is connected to the system via RS-232 to the GDU and ARINC 429 to the GAD 29. The GPS20A was removed (and I guess I should get it listed in Classifieds) but the GA36 WAAS antenna the GPS20A was using is compatible with the GPS175 so it was left in place (which means I guess I could also list the GA35 antenna could also be listed in Classifieds).

The actual installation was done by a Garmin approved avionics A&P shop. I purchased my RV12 flying and thus did not do the original avionics install and a few on VAF suggested that this install should be done by someone experienced.
 
I do not.

The GPS175 is connected to the system via RS-232 to the GDU and ARINC 429 to the GAD 29. The GPS20A was removed (and I guess I should get it listed in Classifieds) but the GA36 WAAS antenna the GPS20A was using is compatible with the GPS175 so it was left in place (which means I guess I could also list the GA35 antenna could also be listed in Classifieds).

The actual installation was done by a Garmin approved avionics A&P shop. I purchased my RV12 flying and thus did not do the original avionics install and a few on VAF suggested that this install should be done by someone experienced.

First, thanks for posting this pics. This is the first chance for me to see a completed install of a 175 from the same configuration as mine. I have a 175 sitting on the kitchen table that I'll be adding some time this spring/summer. Even without the install details it's good to see what a pro ended up doing with the space available. I'm not as concerned with getting it wired as I am the physical space and attachment.

Any chance you are willing to pull the 4 screws that hold in your MFD and gets some pics of the stack from the side and maybe the rear?

Did they work with the existing center panel or did they make a new one?
 
First, thanks for posting this pics. This is the first chance for me to see a completed install of a 175 from the same configuration as mine. I have a 175 sitting on the kitchen table that I'll be adding some time this spring/summer. Even without the install details it's good to see what a pro ended up doing with the space available. I'm not as concerned with getting it wired as I am the physical space and attachment.

Any chance you are willing to pull the 4 screws that hold in your MFD and gets some pics of the stack from the side and maybe the rear?

Did they work with the existing center panel or did they make a new one?
I want to add my thanks as well. These pics will be invaluable. If you have any tips or things that had to be changed that would help also
 
Any chance you are willing to pull the 4 screws that hold in your MFD and gets some pics of the stack from the side and maybe the rear?

Did they work with the existing center panel or did they make a new one?
.
The install did require a new center panel as the GTR200B radio had to be raised to make room.





pax3.jpgpax1.jpgpil3.jpg
 
IMC in Classic RV12.

I put in most of the standard modifications after certification including the bender baffle, oil thermostat, gear leg with intersect fairing, parking break, canopy lock, and engine preheater. The panel was a twin screen Garmin G3X, GMC307 autopilot, ES23 transponder, GDL 39R ADSB and GTR 200 COM.
IMG_2848.jpeg

This panel uses 15 amps which leaves very little room for expansion. I tried not to change much of the basic RV12 VFR electrical system. To accomplish this, a modified Z14 electrical system, based on the book AeroElectric Connection, was added to the RV12. Expanding the power budget was done by adding a B&C 30amp pad mounted alternator on my Rotax 912ULS. I ditched the stock battery and added two EarthX batteries behind the baggage bulkhead. The new alternator fed a new bus (Bus 2) and charged one of the new EarthX batteries. The Rotax 20 amp alternator charged the other EarthX on the original Bus (Bus 1). A crossover switch allowed either battery or alternator to be used for running the whole system in case of a failure. In normal operation the two busses are separated. Offloading one of the G3X screens to Bus 2 allowed enough power budget to add a Garmin GPS 175 to Bus 1. A GAP 26 heated pitot tube, MGL N16 VOR/LOC/ILS with a Razor Head was added to Bus 2. The MGL supplies VOR and ILS green needles on my G3Xs and made the 12 ready for my IFR training and IMC.
IMG_0270.jpeg

. TSflightline went out of their way to help diagnose an oil temperature issue which actually didn’t exist. B&C was very patient with my many phone calls about proper grounding and helped to solve the incorrect temperatures from engine sensors.
 
IMC in Classic RV12.

This panel uses 15 amps which leaves very little room for expansion. I tried not to change much of the basic RV12 VFR electrical system. To accomplish this, a modified Z14 electrical system, based on the book AeroElectric Connection, was added to the RV12. Expanding the power budget was done by adding a B&C 30amp pad mounted alternator on my Rotax 912ULS. I ditched the stock battery and added two EarthX batteries behind the baggage bulkhead. The new alternator fed a new bus (Bus 2) and charged one of the new EarthX batteries. The Rotax 20 amp alternator charged the other EarthX on the original Bus (Bus 1). A crossover switch allowed either battery or alternator to be used for running the whole system in case of a failure. In normal operation the two busses are separated. Offloading one of the G3X screens to Bus 2 allowed enough power budget to add a Garmin GPS 175 to Bus 1. A GAP 26 heated pitot tube, MGL N16 VOR/LOC/ILS with a Razor Head was added to Bus 2. The MGL supplies VOR and ILS green needles on my G3Xs and made the 12 ready for my IFR training and IMC.

Can you provide more detail on what it took to install the heated pitot? In planning out what it would take to get my RV-12 IMC-ready, this was always my biggest stumbling block, as it would require modifying the wing connections and so forth.

For the secondary alternator – what was required to get it hooked up to the gearbox? On my engine, I currently see a plug where the pad mount would go, but looking at the Rotax docs, I've been unable to determine if I'd also need to swap out the engine housing.
 
Can you provide more detail on what it took to install the heated pitot? In planning out what it would take to get my RV-12 IMC-ready, this was always my biggest stumbling block, as it would require modifying the wing connections and so forth.

For the secondary alternator – what was required to get it hooked up to the gearbox? On my engine, I currently see a plug where the pad mount would go, but looking at the Rotax docs, I've been unable to determine if I'd also need to swap out the engine housing.
The gear box must be removed and a gear kit, available from Rotax, must be installed. The B&C pad mounted alternator will play havoc with all the engine temperature sensors in warm weather. Adding a 3/8” ring terminal to each sensor and connecting it directly to the Garmin GEA 24 Lo for each sensor solved the issue. Vans did not use these grounds on the ULS.

The heated pitot tube was attached by using 6160 angle attached to the rib next to the access panel for the stall switch. It was secured to the cover plate with two wedge spacers to give the proper support. Both securing points are needed to give the proper support, angle and clearance to the wing. I added two wires from the wing connector to the hot wires of the pitot tube. A #14 ground wire with a separate quick connector at the wing was run to ground the pitot to the plane. Feeding these wires through the wing was the hard part. To remove the wing you need to unplug the ground once the wing is pulled out a few inches. I hope this helps.
 
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