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RV-12 choke cable backing out

roger lee

Well Known Member
RV12 choke cables.

I have seen 4 sets of choke cables coming out of their adjuster housing up at the carb on RV12's. Since these are backing out they should be safety wired. I call it leashing, but you can call it whatever you would like. You attach the safety wire about 1" out from the adjusting nut. Then twist it and secure it again right up at the opening of the adjusting nut. Then twist is again and secure it around the adjusting nut itself. The pictures will do a better job of explaining. It will now never move. I usually do it to throttle cables too, but the RV12 has a solid mount throttle cable that is attached to the throttle cable adjuster.
Here are a few pics of the choke cables I saw just this morning.


http://s468.photobucket.com/user/ssadiver/media/20140731_072622.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


http://s468.photobucket.com/user/ssadiver/media/20140731_072549.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s468.photobucket.com/user/ss...ver/media/20140731_072556.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

The RV12 this morning had fuel pouring out the right carb vent. Found a sinking float and the fuel level to high so the float arms were adjusted. This threw off the carb sync so that was also performed. Purrs like a kitten now.
 
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Great idea Roger. I like that. Thank you. Here's another choke issue for you to ponder. If you are not careful when you cut the choke wire at the end, it unravels like a fishing line. Trying to get that "bundle" back through the wire stop is difficult at best. There should be a creative way to secure a connected wire without replacing the entire double wire system all the way back to the panel. You're good at puzzles like this Roger! Whatdaya think? Thanks again.
 
Don't cut the wire when it is under stress. make sure the cable is relaxed and use a sharp cable cutter, not a set of dics.
Then if you want put a piece of heat shrink over the last 1/2" of wire to keep strands like new.
 
These Felco (Swiss) cable cutters give you a super nice cut with zero unraveling of the cable. Also head to your local bike shop after cutting and purchase a few aluminum cable ends. They come in various sizes for brake and gear cables. Crimp them on with dikes and when you want to remove crimp them 90 degrees and the cable won't be damaged. Then install fresh ones. Hope this helps.

IMAGE_57.jpeg

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A little heat shrink on the end after installation will prevent unraveling later. I sometimes heat shrink the cut area and cut through it to prevent unraveling during cutting. Then I remove the heat shrink if I a have to thread the cable through a hole before heat shrinking the loose end.
 
Had exactly this problem

with 143WM at about 200 hours. Engine ran just fine at cruise and full power but when the throttle was pulled all the way back for landing it would run very rough. My fitting wasn't completely apart like Roger shows but when I looked at the choke arms, the right carb was almost half choked. Further "pulling and twisting" found the loose fitting. Tightened evething down really tight and 2-3 hours later it was doing the same thing. Tightened everything down and safety wired it like Roger shows. Wish I'd known about the cable cutters 5 years ago-- if I have to take mine out they will never go back in.

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
Choke Knob Problem

Yesterday on my new production RV -12 (29 hours) I went to start the cold engine using the choke and the knob spun off the shaft (counter clockwise) and since the shaft must be turned counter clockwise to "unlock" the choke it couldn't be choked. I ended up using a pair of pliers directly on the shaft to release the choke. Maybe I tightened it down too much? In any case my question is should I used locktight on the shaft nut and knob?
 
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Yesterday on my new production RV -12 (29 hours) I went to start the cold engine using the choke and the knob spun off the shaft (counter clockwise) and since the shaft must be turned counter clockwise to "unlock" the choke it couldn't be chocked. I ended up using a pair of pliers directly on the shaft to release the choke. Maybe I tightened it down too much? In any case my question is should I used locktight on the shaft nut and knob?

During transition training on my (also production) RV-12 I was cautioned not to over tighten the knob either closed or open - just enough clockwise twist to hold it in place in either position.

TB
 
Thanks Roger. Where have you been? I thought you were mad at us. Regarding the treatment of the cable, somewhere I saw a video and I think it was Brian Carpenter showing how to weld the end of cables with a propane torch. It was pretty slick and it will not unravel.:confused:
 
Thanks Roger. Where have you been? I thought you were mad at us. Regarding the treatment of the cable, somewhere I saw a video and I think it was Brian Carpenter showing how to weld the end of cables with a propane torch. It was pretty slick and it will not unravel.:confused:

Hey Dave, if you run across that video, I sure would like to see it.

Thanks.........Tom
 
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