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RV-14 Elevator Trim Tab Hinge to Rear Spar Riveting

Meat

Active Member
Patron
Hi All,
Need some advice. I’m ready to rivet the left elevator rear spar to the upper skin as depicted on page 9-18. Much of that rivet line includes the trim tab hinge. The rivets will have to be bucked vs squeezed due to skin interference. It’s unclear how to buck the rivets with the hinge section in the way. The hinge pivot point tabs prevent the bucking bar being square and flush on each rivet for a quality shop head. Plus I fear bending the pivot tabs upward as I buck each rivet.
I haven’t found any prior threads on this. Any advice on how to best buck these rivets? Has anyone queried Vans about substituting pulled MK-319-BS rivets in this location? They are an authorized substitute at other areas along the rear spar.
I greatly appreciate your time and expertise.

Cheers,
Scott
RV-14 #140702
Empennage Kit
 
Squeeze those rivets with a pneumatic squeezer and a tall set to clear the hinge eyes. I'm not sure why you think the skin is interfering. Perhaps a photo to illustrate your issue?
 
Many thanks and you’re 100% right. If I’d clecoed everything together before writing that would have been crystal clear. The profile view in the plans and my prior experience with the right elevator had me thinking otherwise. Thanks for setting me straight. Feeling slightly foolish but building on.

Regards,
Scott
 
Be VERY careful not to accidentally squeeze the hinge eyes during this process. I put a hinge pin in the hinge half during this process just in case - if you accidentally squeeze the hinge eye with a pin in place there's a good chance you can still use the hinge with a little work. Not much chance if you squeeze an "empty" hinge eye.

Ask me how I know.....
 
Better still, put a piece of spare hinge in place. If you rivet with the hinge open 60 degrees (or so, depending on your squeezer clearance and direction does not matter), the hinge half being riveted will be less likely to bind up later because the spare is helping keep it lined up in 3D. This trick works well on all hinges that rotate after installation (unlike hinge material used for the cowlings). Also, if you need to buck a hinge, you can get bars that have a notch for clearance or you can modify your own bar. The tungsten ATS6005 bar in their current sale flyer is an example of what I'm talking about.
 
If you put the right set on your squeezer, there’s really nothing to riveting hinges whether the pins are in or not. Avoiding the hinge eyes is simple. All it takes is a little practice.
 
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