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RV-14 Elevator Spar Rivets, AN426 vs MK-319-BS

Meat

Active Member
Patron
Hi All,

In the middle of the elevators. Page 9-17 references the long "special bucking bar" to get at the rear spar rivets. It also states it's acceptable to use MK-319-BS blind rivets in lieu of solid rivets in locations where that bucking bar is used. Using the bucking bar as described on page 9-20 looks to be a 2-man job and I'm pretty much working solo. The technique seems time consuming, potential for mistakes high, along with frustration and wasted time replacing bad rivets and making it worse.
Or, I could quickly pull those rivets along the entire length of the spar and be done with it. I know that rivet line will look a little "different" then the others. I think I can live with that. The time savings, working solo, and reduced aggravation is pretty compelling.
Did anyone else out there go in that direction? Happy with your decision? Thanks for any feedback.

Scott

RV-14 #140702
Empennage in progress
QB wings and fuse ordered
 
Whoever paints it can fill those rivets, you won't ever notice or even care later. If it's acceptable by Vans and makes it easier, go for it.

I did the pull rivets, nobody can tell, the filled nicely.
 
I did the MK-319BS and was very pleased with final results - filled in the rivets with some filler before paint and all good. No one would notice unless looking specifically for it. I used a #34 reamer to prep the holes for the MK-319BS.
 
Just the other side of the story for those who don't want to use the pulled rivets.
The special bucking bar worked great for me and I did it solo. They all turned out perfect. I was really concerned going into it but there was no concern.
It was some of my better rivets. None were required to be drilled out.
 
Just the other side of the story for those who don't want to use the pulled rivets.
The special bucking bar worked great for me and I did it solo. They all turned out perfect. I was really concerned going into it but there was no concern.
It was some of my better rivets. None were required to be drilled out.

Same here, same experience.
 
Thanks!

Just stopped by my local metal working shop and they didn't have any steel thick enough. Called my trusted advisor who built an RV-8 and then a WW-I Sopwith Camel from scratch. He pointed out the pulled rivet option and said go for it. Basically you are going to have areas that are going to kick your *** so save your energy for when it counts. When someone points out that you used LP rivets instead of flush just ask them how they did it on their plane. ;-)
 
I was really intimidated by the special bucking bar. I ended up doing it solo and it was way easier than most any other solo bucking I have done. Easy peasy.
 
A couple of tricks

A couple of tricks to get good results with the special bucking bar.

1. Mark the middle of the bucking face with blue marker so you know when you have it centered under the rivet hole/tail.

2. Roll a piece of blue masking tape and stick it on the end face of the bar that abuts the spar.

Once you have the blue mark aligned with the hole, you can push the special bucking bar against the spar and the tape provides enough friction to keep the bar centered and stable while you set the rivet. It also protects the spar from getting banged up.
 
The special bucking bar made it easy.

You just lever it off the edge of the bench - all rivets were done easily.
 
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