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T-1005 Rivet confusion

mike newall

Well Known Member
Sponsor
T-1005 Tank Attach Bracket on page 18-5.

I can't find any reference as to whether this part is machine countersunk, or the skin is countersunk ?

As the attach bracket is substantial, it isn't dimpled. I am assuming that the skin will be countersunk, unless anyone has a better idea :D :confused:
 
This is one of the MANY errors/omissions in the tank section.

I dimpled the skin and countersunk the attach bracket. That gives you a few thou gap for sealant between the two pieces and keeps more skin in place for the rivet. I looked at several logs and that seems to be what they did as well.

From what I understand, you countersink the skins for the rear baffle to allow for sliding the baffle in smoothly.

Also note that the T-1005C and T-1005B are mislabeled on page 18-5 in figure 1. They are correctly labeled in step 4 (and on the iso drawing on page 1).

And you'll need to drill out the vent clip to accept the snap bushing.

And the rivet callouts for the fuel cap are incorrect if you have the red cap. Use the callouts from the -14 instructions on van's site. You also don't need to bend or adjust anything to the cap flange to make it fit.

OH, and there have been reports of a bad batch of drain flanges. Make sure yours weren't countersunk too deep.
 
Best of luck. I just closed my right tank up last night and the left will get closed tonight.

You also don't need (or want really) to use sealant on the nut plates that hold the sending unit. And I'd follow the sending unit install instructions from the 14 instructions. The full-size printout of the arm bends is really nice to have and works fine with the 10.

The return line location from the 14 almost works on the 10, should you consider EFI. Moving it forward 1/8" and down 1/8" will help clear the upper stiffener (you may still need to notch the stiffener a tad).

On more suggestion: either sand the bottom of the screw or put a star washer under one of the sending unit's screws. The coating on the screw seems to be an insulator. I am getting 5-6 MOhms resistance between the screw and the flange on both tanks. I have < 1 ohm between the screw and the tank. I'm either going to run a dedicated ground lug or try and get a better connection between the screw and flange.

Others have swapped out those screws for cap screws to make it easier to replace later as well.
 
T-1005 Tank Attach Bracket on page 18-5.

I can't find any reference as to whether this part is machine countersunk, or the skin is countersunk ?

As the attach bracket is substantial, it isn't dimpled. I am assuming that the skin will be countersunk, unless anyone has a better idea :D :confused:

I countersank the skin.
 
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