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Turbo911

Member
While waiting for the empennage/tail kit, I ordered a tool kit from Cleveland for RV-14a minus the squeezer. Planning on a Numatix air over hydraulic squeezer with 3" yoke and the 2.5" reach yoke. I choose the Nova air drill and the c-frame dimpler. I have all the basic machine shop tools as I am a CNC machinist by trade.

What am I missing for the tail kit as far as tools go? Do I need a blind riveter?

Has anyone anodized the interior structure parts vs. priming? Any thoughts, other that expensive?
 
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My Cleaveland kit came with a pop rivet squeezer. If yours doesn't have one you will need one once you hit the rudder. The Cleaveland tools kit had pretty much everything I needed. I did end up buying their tank, substructure, and 120 degree pop rivet dies (one in the rudder). The flange yoke has been really helpful. I also bought a deburring wheel (not the cut and polish wheel)[I also use this one alot]. Happy building!
 
While waiting for the empennage/tail kit, I ordered a tool kit from Cleveland for RV-14a minus the squeezer. Planning on a Numatix air over hydraulic squeezer with 3" yoke and the 2.5" reach yoke. I choose the Nova air drill and the c-frame dimpler. I have all the basic machine shop tools as I am a CNC machinist by trade.

What am I missing for the tail kit as far as tools go? Do I need a blind riveter?

Has anyone anodized the interior structure parts vs. priming? Any thoughts, other that expensive?

Expensive indeed not to mention the time added would be significant. I would split the difference and alodine it. But here in Michigan the corrosion protection inherent of 2024-T3 is quite sufficient
 
In the fuselage, CherryMax rivets are used in several places including oversize ones (#20 holes as I recall) in the lower fuselage and also #30 hole size where longerons attach to firewall. Dozens and dozens of LP 4-3 in various places particularly attaching the baggage floor, CS4-4 or similar in the canopy rails. A pneumatic pop rivet gun is very nice to have during the fuselage build. Get one of these too, makes setting them in tight spaces (can't use for CherryMax though) much easier: https://www.cleavelandtool.com/prod...2&_sid=3d5e6b2c6&_ss=r&variant=18378218963006. Van's has a way to modify trailing edge wedge to do the same thing, but I found that to be a pain to use and even more to find/keep up with.
 
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RV-14a

Thanks for the insight. I did order a pneumatic blind rivet gun from Numatix along the the Squeezer. I think my budget of $4,000 is a bit low as I spent $3,750.98 today alone. Hopefully, I have most of the tools with this order. I'm sure there will be more along the way. Especially crimpers for electric (way down the road).
 
Alodine

Expensive indeed not to mention the time added would be significant. I would split the difference and alodine it. But here in Michigan the corrosion protection inherent of 2024-T3 is quite sufficient

Does alodine need to be primed as well?
 
If you?re like me...

Thanks for the insight. I did order a pneumatic blind rivet gun from Numatix along the the Squeezer. I think my budget of $4,000 is a bit low as I spent $3,750.98 today alone. Hopefully, I have most of the tools with this order. I'm sure there will be more along the way. Especially crimpers for electric (way down the road).

You?ll need a LOT more #40 and #30 drill bits than what come in the kit. Inexpensive, but shipping gets ya. No substitute for sharp bits, though.

When it comes to electric, you need the right crimpers and dies and a good wire stripper. It?s almost fun when you have exactly the right tools.
 
Alodine

Nasty stuff but if it's Alodined, I wouldn't prime. Maybe some primer on mating surfaces.
No anodize. Expensive and it changes the metal.
You will want lots more tools but the kit is adequate to start. Find a mentor and play. You will figure out what tools you want.
Feel free to download my Basic Builder log from my blog below. One tab is every tool I've purchased.
 
the basics

When I first started I had no clue, I wasn't a pilot, but plowed ahead.

A few things I found out along the way.
1. You will need many more tools then you can imagine or figure out now.
2. If you quick built, my first question is "what did they do and do I need to do"? What is needed is print all the (newest) plans and check off each page. There are some things along the way they do not do, I folded those pages to come back to. Don't get discouraged, just keep going step by step, research and study a lot before you "do it". It will come together.
3. Every time I worked on it I needed to order something from Aircraft Spruce. Either I screwed something up, or I need to re-buy what I just installed. I made a rule to myself that if I used a "one use" an bolt and nut I re-bought it if I used it.
4. Encourage help from others, it will make it much more fun.
5. Whatever happens - keep building!
Larry
 
+1 on the need for numbered drill bits.

Often local industrial supply houses will carry what you need, or can order.

In my area, Tacoma Screw and Fastenal will have the drill bits, Scotchbrite pads, etc. Certainly saves on shipping.

Doug
Seattle area
 
Find local suppliers now

If you can, find "... local industrial supply houses [that] carry what you need..."

Not only does it save on shipping, but can save LOTS of time.
 
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