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Electric or manual flaps

billytime1

Well Known Member
So.. what’s the weight difference between going electric on the flaps vs manual. The lynx I learnt in had electric. I counted three potatoes for each flap position, . Anything to save weight on this build is the goal. Thanks all
 
I went with manual flaps on my RV-3B (that's the default anyway) because I've gotten to like the ability to rapidly change flap position during landing. Especially to get rid of flaps upon touchdown when it's gusty in my C180. Because of that, I'd be reluctant to install electric flaps.

Still, a C180 isn't an RV, and a taildragger isn't a nosedragger. Those differences might legitimately affect a decision.

I'd expect, without data, that electric will be heavier. Don't forget to assess the additional electrical control and sensing and wiring compared to the manual system. It does free up some cockpit room, though, and that, too, might be worth considering.

Dae
 
My early -6 had manual flaps (electric was not yet an option), and I loved them so much that I retrofitted manual flaps to my -7. Simple, lightweight and very reliable.
 
So.. what’s the weight difference between going electric on the flaps vs manual. The lynx I learnt in had electric. I counted three potatoes for each flap position, . Anything to save weight on this build is the goal. Thanks all

The weight delta isn't huge, but the manual flaps are slightly lighter.
 
I built my RV-6 with manual flaps, they worked fine but I kept punching passengers in the gut with my elbow when I pulled the final notch. Converted to electric twenty years ago and have never looked back.

http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse7.html#flaps

Fourteen years ago.....
I shortened the stick to lay parallel to the floor and just up enough to grab. Cut an exit ramp in the top of the second notch to allow a pull to full flaps without the need to push the button. I filled in the button so it no longer looked like a nail head and no longer pinches my thumb. I built seat backs that are the same width as the RV4 and are less than an inch above the brace, and that gave me elbow room and allowed me to reach behind the passenger seat. At the same time, I narrowed the arm rest by 50% and this gave me more usable reaching space in the cockpit.

I never did like the thought of a dog house between the seats, and the fact that all Van's did was hack off the arm and install the flap motor in it's place. On another 6A project that I was working on, I moved the flap motor over to the right side and under the flap cover in the cargo area.... Sorta like on the 8. The weldment cross tube was increased by one size.

Manual flaps...... quick, easy and trouble free.
 
On another 6A project that I was working on, I moved the flap motor over to the right side and under the flap cover in the cargo area.... Sorta like on the 8. The weldment cross tube was increased by one size.

I assume increased one size means One size thicker in wall thickness??? This is a very important change to make if doing this modification.

If not done, the torsional load induced on the long length of tube will cause asymmetric flap deployment.
 
In Cessnas I always preferred the manual flaps over electric, and intended to do that in my -6. But while I was building it I flew a friend's -6 with manual flaps for 50 hours or so and changed my mind. In a Cessna you reach down for the flap handle and have good leverage. In the -6 the handle is much higher with less leverage with nowhere for your elbow to go, much more awkward for me, though that also may just be my particular height / arm length.

Anyway in the end I went with the electric and am perfectly happy with it.

If you do choose manual I'd recommend considering a modification such as what gasman did to make it more ergonomic.
 
Limited arm movement & manual flaps

I'm taking over a -6 build and debating in my mind manual or electric flaps - my right elbow is fused at a 90degree angle. i'm thinking that electric will be easier for me to deal with than manual.

training in a piper, it wasnt a big deal and the electric ones on my 172 are super easy so, electric may be the smarter choice?
 
I like my electric flaps. But then again, I have a nose wheel, steam gages, and used rattle can primer.
 
I built a -6 with manual flaps and now fly electric on a -6A. Operationally I liked the manual flaps for short field performance, but from a cockpit passenger space point of view, the electric wins out hands down. The manual flap lever tends to get in the way with winter coats and a passenger. In reality, the only advantage of the speed of the manual flaps is for really short field operations. Otherwise you don’t need to put them up quickly or down that quickly.
 
Another advantage to the manual flaps is that it is extremely hard to pull them on if you are above the max. Flap speed. The electric flaps can be lowered at any speed and ruin your day.
 
Another issue is the flap motor itself. I have twice flown over 200 miles with failed flap motors. Both times stuck down. Not fun. One in a Cessna and one in a Mooney. I am building my 3B with manual flaps. I like simple

Bob Grigsby
J3C 65 flying. Fun
3B close
2020 donated
 
Installation

There's a few detail things that I don't like about our electric flap installation and would change if possible on a new build:
  • There is no limit switch, so the flap motor grinds away when it reaches full extension or retraction.
  • There is no indication in the cockpit for how far the flaps are extended. There are markings on the flap itself so the pilot must look down and out at the trailing edge.
  • There is no auto retract in the flap switch, so the switch must be held continuously to retract.
  • The switch is a round toggle, however paddle would be better for ergonomics.
  • Master switch must be on to extend or retract flaps on the ground, whereas manual flaps can be moved without power. Emergency landing would also need power to remain on for flaps.
 
There's a few detail things that I don't like about our electric flap installation and would change if possible on a new build:
  • There is no limit switch, so the flap motor grinds away when it reaches full extension or retraction.
  • There is no indication in the cockpit for how far the flaps are extended. There are markings on the flap itself so the pilot must look down and out at the trailing edge.
  • There is no auto retract in the flap switch, so the switch must be held continuously to retract.
  • The switch is a round toggle, however paddle would be better for ergonomics.
  • Master switch must be on to extend or retract flaps on the ground, whereas manual flaps can be moved without power. Emergency landing would also need power to remain on for flaps.

I personally like the simplicity of the basic RV-6 electric flap system. I did hook up my flaps directly to the battery so it's always 'hot', & glad I did so. There are aftermarket solutions to some (all?) of the rest -- check out the Ray Allen and showplanes.com offerings for example.
 
Reach out to Pat Hatch

I have electrics on my -4..love them. I use the MAC stick grip with the flap up/down buttons on the stick. Never need to reach for anything. Pat Hatch (on the forums) is also an advertiser here and has several flap switching solutions as well as actuators. Easy to put position markings on the flap L/E that can be seen looking out the canopy while in the pattern and know exactly where there at, and in go-around situation when the cockpit is "busy" just push the button and fly the plane. Manual's are simple, but can be inconvenient when stuff is around the handle or clothing is bulky.
 
There are aftermarket solutions to some (all?) of the rest -- check out the Ray Allen and showplanes.com offerings for example.

I use the MAC stick grip with the flap up/down buttons on the stick. Never need to reach for anything.

I second the benefits of aftermarket flap accessories. Never need to take eyes away from looking outside or hand off the throttle. Quick flick of stick mounted toggle switch and I get one notch of flaps. Second click get second notch. Can you guess what third click gets? Great for retraction as on take off or go arounds with just one flick of switch I get full retraction of flaps.
 
There's a few detail things that I don't like about our electric flap installation and would change if possible on a new build:
  • There is no limit switch, so the flap motor grinds away when it reaches full extension or retraction.
  • There is no indication in the cockpit for how far the flaps are extended. There are markings on the flap itself so the pilot must look down and out at the trailing edge.
  • There is no auto retract in the flap switch, so the switch must be held continuously to retract.
  • The switch is a round toggle, however paddle would be better for ergonomics.
  • Master switch must be on to extend or retract flaps on the ground, whereas manual flaps can be moved without power. Emergency landing would also need power to remain on for flaps.



I have electric in the 6A I bought, and the switch must be opposite to yours. I have to hold down on the switch to extend and flick up to fully retract, a limit switch for retraction, and a red light indicating flap travel - though very hard to see in flight.

I have no manual RV flap to compare it to, but I do like the electric in the 6A compared to the manual I had in my Cherokee. I think both work equally well, and the manual may simplify things, but if it were me deciding at the build stage, space would be a big factor.
 
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