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  #331  
Old 04-23-2019, 08:27 PM
Jeff Vaughan's Avatar
Jeff Vaughan Jeff Vaughan is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Chester, Pa
Posts: 584
Default Help my arms are too short





Simple low cost extended vent knob
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Jeff Vaughan
RV 12 N237VW ELSA
RV 7A N561EV Sold
West Chester Pa

2020 donation current
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  #332  
Old 04-25-2019, 09:27 AM
PilotBrent PilotBrent is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 463
Default

Jeff, at first I thought you flew into a flock of baseball bats!
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Brent Connelly
Hackettstown, NJ
RV-12, N913BC
http://www.mykitlog.com/brent45

Check out & subscribe to my Youtube channel for latest RV-12 flying videos...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQ...Px2I7jmazGdLqg
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  #333  
Old 05-05-2019, 06:09 AM
bernsbm bernsbm is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Mequon, WI
Posts: 44
Default

Vent controls...
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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Barry Bernstein
N12BB RV12 flying since Oct 2016 (Sold)
N122B RV12iS started Dec 2019, flying Oct 2020
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=bbernstein
2020 dues paid. Best bargain in aviation!
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  #334  
Old 07-22-2019, 02:06 PM
WingedFrog's Avatar
WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 863
Default

Update on the effectiveness of the relocation of the Ducatti Regulator.
My relocated regulator has now 150 hours and going. The previous one failed at 100 hours on Hobbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedFrog View Post
After many failures of the Ducatti Voltage Rectifier/Regulator due to overheating VANS decided to relocate it inside the cockpit to improve the cooling. I decided that a better option was to relocate it inside the cooling tunnel. Here are in a few pictures the steps I took to achieve the relocation:

The components I used, an Al angle 2X2 1/8" thick with one side cut to 1"wide and a counterplate also 1" wide:



Cuts in the fiberglass of the tunnel:



Regulator secured on the angle:



Regulator installed inside the lower cowl's tunnel:



Lower Cowl in place with Regulator connected including a ground cable:



The ground cable goes to the battery housing:



As I decided to leave the initial connector untouched, I connected the extension I made to reach the tunnel with spade connectors but I had to secure the spade connectors with tie-wraps or risk a damaging disconnection of the alternator. On the picture you can see the stand-by Regulator located at the initial location on the firewall. In case of failure of the active located in the tunnel this standby unit can be switched into active by disconnecting the failed unit and reconnecting the standby.

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Builder's name: Jean-Pierre Bernoux
Sport Pilot
Kit # 120395 N124BX
Flying as of 9/11/2013

Builder's Blog:http://vieilleburette.blogspot.com/
EAA 1114
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  #335  
Old 11-20-2019, 07:58 PM
ben barron ben barron is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Fall City, WA
Posts: 138
Default SILENT HEKTIK INSTALL COWL RAIN CAP

MY SOLUTION TO RAIN AND MY NEW SILENT HEKTIK VR INSTALLATION IS ATTACHED
[IMG]https://cliseproperties.box.com/s/wq9m35vnz5xutdw15fp8yglwe2g5ie4f[/IMG
https://cliseproperties.box.com/s/lo...348l6tia2414pn
https://cliseproperties.box.com/s/g9...br1lsxkxbl06x8
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Last edited by ben barron : 11-20-2019 at 09:16 PM.
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  #336  
Old 02-08-2020, 07:18 PM
Crafting N112DR's Avatar
Crafting N112DR Crafting N112DR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Powell, OH
Posts: 270
Default CO detector

Just installed a new Aithre Shield EX 2.0 Behind-the-Panel Carbon Monoxide Detector. Works great and looks great easy install. Integrates into the G3X touch via the GEA-24 50 or 37 Sub-D connector.



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David Rohrlick
PPSEL, A&P
RV-12iS Completed
Airworthiness signed off by the FAA 1/23/2020
First Flight on 3/14/2020
Phase I Finished on 5/7/2020

Need:
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N112DR
https://youtube.com/c/CraftingN112DR
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  #337  
Old 06-25-2020, 04:25 PM
Cumulo Cumulo is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: KHMT
Posts: 62
Default

To get through it , I had to add some paragraphs to the aux tank recipe Interesting. Hmm. Maybe a 12.
r

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy View Post
... Edited - minor typos, added paras. -ron

Let's start with the 6 gallon tank first. You are going to have to rivet two brackets to the floor of the baggage compartment for the 2 inch nylon strap to go through to hold the fuel tank in place. Put them far enough apart so the tank won't rub on them when in place. Just use some thick scrap aluminum left over from your build to make them.

Next you need to vent the tank to the outside air so it won't expand or collapse. Take the swivel air fitting and install it in the filler cap of the tank. The fuel tank in the web link I provided has a vent in the fuel cap you will have to remove and you may have to drill and tap it for the swivel air fitting. Then you need to screw on a male Seasense Chrysler/Force Connector. The thread on the male fitting should screw into the swivel air fitting. You could probably leave the swivel air fitting off if you want but I liked its mobility.

Now attach the nylon freezer line to the female Seasense Chrysler/Force Connector. You may need to use a larger piece of tubing to put on the barb of the connector and then push the nylon tubing inside of it. What ever works for you. Then run the nylon tubing down through the hole in the center of the main spar, where the wiring come through, to the center inspection plate on the bottom of the airplane.

In the center of this inspection plate install a long shank 3/16 inch rivet with the nylon tubing on it like the static ports in the plane. Pop the mandrel out before you attach the other end of the tubing to the female connector on the cap. Don't worry about the ethanol factor in this line, it won't have fuel in it except for the occasional slosh when completely full on a bumpy ride and it won't be under pressure either. Also leave a little slack in the nylon line for future removal of the inspection plate.

Next attach male Seasense Chrysler/Force Connector to the fuel pickup on top of the fuel tank. The threads should match, 1/4 inch NPT. Then connect a female Seasense Chrysler/Force Connector to the end of the 3/8 ID fuel line you can probably picked up at your local auto parts with one of the hose clamps. Remember that this tubing will not be under pressure either but should be ethanol compatible . Then connect this tubing to the barb connector screwed onto the in side of the facet fuel pump. You will need to attach the two Jeggs barbed AN fittings onto the Facet pump.

Next attach another length of 3/8 ID fuel tubing on the out side barb of the Facet pump. Run this fuel tubing to the right side of the aircraft up past the ELT toward the fuel tank neck. About half way along the top of the airplane fuel tank install the Moeller inline fuel filter using a couple more hose clamps. Then add the last female Seasense Chrysler/Force Connector to the 3/8 fuel tubing.

Next mark the airplane fuel tank filler next where you want to install the last male Seasense Chrysler/Force Connector and then remove it and drill a hole onto the filler neck to install the connector. When you insert the male Seasense Chrysler/Force connector into the filler neck you are going to need a nut to install on the 1/4 NPT thread to hold it in place. Which nut fits this? Would you believe a AN bulkhead fitting nut. An AN6 as shown in the Jeggs web site link will work. It will be a little loose so don't over tighten or you will strip it. Put some proseal on the threads and smooth some around the hole then tighten the fitting on to the nut just slightly past hand tight. Remember this won't be under pressure either, you want it to hold firm but not leak.

I mounted my Facet fuel pump inside the main spar using the same bolt that holds the fuel tank in place as you can see in the pics with this post. To do this you will have to cut the bottom mounting tab off so the other tab will line up correctly. Also if you were on a cross country flight and your in plane electric pump failed you now would have a temporary spare. I put 3/4 inch heat shrink over my hose clamps to give it a more pleasing look as you can see in the pictures. Next you will need to wire up your pump to the power port plug with the on/off switch. This will go into the power port when you want to use the aux tank.

Couple things to remember. You have to burn off 6 gallons of fuel in your main tank befor you transfer your aux tank fuel. It takes about 20 mins to transfer 6 gallons. Hey it's only a 3.5-4PSI fuel pump. You don't want to leave the pump running dry for too long. Think about setting a count down timer on your Dynon to keep track of your transfer. Also the best part is you can look over you right shoulder and view the fuel filter just beyond the Moeller gage and see the fuel running through it and know for sure when you are done transferring fuel.

I think I've cover most of what guys need to know to build and install their own tank. I reserve the right to have left something out or maybe posted the wrong link to a wrong size part. If I have then when you build your Aux tank feel free to post the correction here like when we find a mistake with RV12 plans. Also this is a very simple setup for use in an experimental airplane that can be removed in 5 minutes. Also if you improve on the design the let us all know. If you don't feel safe using it then don't use it. Remember as PIC you make the call.

Maybe the Flightline guys can come up with a hose kit for a cleaner installation.

Pics to follow!
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  #338  
Old 07-23-2020, 07:00 PM
seagull seagull is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 155
Default Oil Door opening spring mod

I normally leave my oil door open for cooling, one day the wind blew it closed and I missed that it was not latched on the preflight. Just as I was lifting off the door started flapping, I had enough runway left and landed so no harm was done but it made me think.
I have added a spring to the door to hold it open. The pictures are self-explanatory. I wound the spring 4 coils out of .045 music wire. The spool is aluminum and I used a longer bolt to put it all together.


The stock right side hinge.


Parts to do the mod, the spring and sleeve I made.


finished with spring in place.


Last edited by seagull : 10-27-2020 at 01:28 PM.
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  #339  
Old 08-27-2020, 09:12 PM
Crafting N112DR's Avatar
Crafting N112DR Crafting N112DR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Powell, OH
Posts: 270
Default Creator comfort, and safety item.



Added a small fire extinguisher.





Powered Headset plug (LEMO)
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David Rohrlick
PPSEL, A&P
RV-12iS Completed
Airworthiness signed off by the FAA 1/23/2020
First Flight on 3/14/2020
Phase I Finished on 5/7/2020

Need:
Paint?
Serial#12-0864
N112DR
https://youtube.com/c/CraftingN112DR
VAF donation made for 2020
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