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Wing inspection covers countersink

ijustwannafly

Well Known Member
I just wanted to get everyones opinion on this. I recently purchased a wing set and was starting to do some assessment on it. When i originally looked at the spar it did not register to me that this could be a potential problem. I called vans about it and per usual i can never get a definitive answer from them. I don't know if you guys have run into the same situation but whenever i call them with a direct question i can NEVER get a direct answer.

I came across the countersinking for the inspection covers and noticed it was basically all the way to the edge of the spar. This was not making me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. I have been looking for some other pictures of this and done some searing around the forums and have not found anything on this.

All the #8,s for the fuel tank seem to be in good shape and properly sized.
Right around .375 for the #8,s

These ones however look pretty good in reference to the rivets for the nut plates. It does not appear the hole is over sized but it is on the edge of the spar. Important note, the countersink is NOT through the edge of spar its just basically right on it.

Has anyone run into this?

image1_zpscvtwovsu.jpg
 
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If those are the countersinks where the #8 screws from inspection plate sit then so be it.

Don't worry and build on.
 
uhh, my 8 has #6 screws in that location. Countersinks look like they might be a bit big, but for the cover probably not a big deal. I would smooth out the nicked edges of the spar and prime the countersinks.
 
Not sure why Vans uses #8 screws here but it is called out to use #8 along spar and #6 for rest of screws attaching to bottom wing skin.
 
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They look like #6 but the countersink looks a little deep. Clean and prime.
 
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Sorry for the crappy picture. The holes due to the photography look like #8,s but they are #6,s.
you can see in the picture above them the #8,s look a tiny bit larger.

My concern really stems from the fact of how close it is to the spar edge.
Still waiting on a reply from vans

Just to clarify also, they were originally primed and protected when i bought the kit. I removed the primer with a little acetone to inspect the holes and measure them
 
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Not sure why Vans uses #8 screws here but it is called out to use #8 along spar and #6 for rest of screws attaching to bottom wing skin.

Actually, that's backwards. The drawing shows #6 in the spar and #8 in the skin. The countersinks look like #6 to me, maybe a tad deep. Pop some primer in the countersinks and build on.
 
Actually, that's backwards. The drawing shows #6 in the spar and #8 in the skin. The countersinks look like #6 to me, maybe a tad deep. Pop some primer in the countersinks and build on.

Ah yes it is. #6 on the spar. But in any case don't worry about this and build on.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions on this.
I have heard from Vans on this but was waiting to see if anyone else had anything to say on it before i revealed the finding.
 
Flange loads

Shooting from the hip. The spar flange is taking some drag/anti drag loads. In a hard stop it might want to let go, except the nutplate is acting like a patch for a tension/compression load path. Don't know about bending lift loads, not to worried though.... that's what the spar web does.
 
Shooting from the hip. The spar flange is taking some drag/anti drag loads. In a hard stop it might want to let go, except the nutplate is acting like a patch for a tension/compression load path. Don't know about bending lift loads, not to worried though.... that's what the spar web does.

Andrew, so what would you do in the situation? Your opinion is interesting to me given that you have IA.

I have been looking at lots of pictures from other guys lately. Some are deep like mine some are so shallow that i don't really believe the screw even fits.
The CS fits the dimple on mine perfectly so i understand why the original builder went this far. He simply followed the instructions. "Countersink until flush" Which they are.

It seems that ones that are considered "ok" or "good to go" by other builders are nearly as big as mine they just have about .020 - .030 of an inch between the hole and the edge of the flange. Where mine are right on the edge

So i continue to tell myself, if i buy new spars, what am i really gaining for my $3500? .030?
My other thought as you also mentioned was, the plate-nut is sort of acting like a doubler in itself no?

Also i know there is not an official number until recently when the RV14 came around but does anyone have a ballpark on the max DIA of the #6?
I know most builder suggest somewhere .370 -.375 for #8 but an guess on #6?
I know they are fairly similar.
 
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