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Old 01-30-2019, 07:22 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884

Originally Posted by iamtheari View Post
The RV-14 is tip-up-only. So I have to balance the risk of damaging the canopy skin by opening it with clecos in the top forward skin against the conundrum of spending money on panel components to install before putting the skin on.
On the -7 tipup, there can be an issue of the skin in front of the windshield area not matching up with the forward top skin if you wait to rivet the forward skin until after canopy work (for avionics work convenience, same as you). I tried to minimize the risk by buying a few dozen tiny flathead screws & nuts with heads the same diameter as a -3 rivet. I think they were metric, but it's been a long time. It took maybe 20 minutes to cleco the skin on everywhere except where the canopy would hit clecos, and screw it down along those rivet lines.

After finishing the canopy fitting, I could remove the forward skin to do 'systems' work in the forward fuselage.

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Old 01-30-2019, 11:56 AM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ND
Posts: 401

Originally Posted by 219PB View Post

That shows my ignorance on the 14 model.
No worries, all experience and knowledge is useful in understanding these things.
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:43 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,296

Please keep in mind that even if your canopy on the table is held 100% straight and without any twist, there is no guarantee a perfect fit unless your fuse/longeron are 100% straight. Putting it on the Fuse and locking it in place, might yield a better match to the fuselage. The sanding portion and finish product perhaps can be done on the bench which I did to get the fairing to the near paint ready stage.
N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
N825MS RV14A - IO390 - Flying
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