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Engine Oil Heater Question: Part 2

Stockmanreef

Well Known Member
There is another thread with the same title so I decided to start a new thread instead of hijacking the other one.

I am up in Mid Michigan where it can get down to -15F. I am going to put in the Reiff system on an IO390. I was planning on the sump heater and the cylinder heaters. Two questions:

1. should I go with the standard system, turbo system, or the turbo XP system?
2. Is it worth while putting on the Oil Cooler Heater? It seems to make sense to put this in place if you want to only plan to heat for a short period of time prior to start.
3. put a system in to turn the heat on to the hangar the night before flying? Gas powered radiatant heat. Not sure this is possible and probably costs the most in the long run.

thanks
 
I have the Reiff standard heater on my IO-390, two 100 watt heaters mounted on the rear of the oil pan.
With the weather in my area similar to yours, I find 3 hours of preheat will raise the oil temp about 40 to 45 degrees above ambient, I do cover the engine with a heavy blanket and plug the cowling.
A WIFI hotspot allows control and temperature monitoring from home.
The setup has performed well.
 
There is another thread with the same title so I decided to start a new thread instead of hijacking the other one.

I am up in Mid Michigan where it can get down to -15F. I am going to put in the Reiff system on an IO390. I was planning on the sump heater and the cylinder heaters. Two questions:

1. should I go with the standard system, turbo system, or the turbo XP system?
2. Is it worth while putting on the Oil Cooler Heater? It seems to make sense to put this in place if you want to only plan to heat for a short period of time prior to start.
3. put a system in to turn the heat on to the hangar the night before flying? Gas powered radiatant heat. Not sure this is possible and probably costs the most in the long run.

thanks

I had a Reiff and it burned out after a hand full of cycles and service was poor. My advice is to use something that is flexible vs rigid plates that Reiff uses. Below is what I got for my new engine. It?s thermostatically controlled, priced right and really nice. Much better IMO. I don?t think you will want to fly in -15F, but if you do, it will work fine if turned on in 4-5 hours before use. A cell switch, Amazon WiFi switch or a trip to the hangar to turn it on will all work. I use the $10 Amazon switch and a $3/month Ting hot spot and set it to turn on while I?m sleeping. Your entire engine compartment will be nice and warm if you use baffle plugs and a blanket over your cowl. If you go with a Reiff system, just two standard 100w plates will work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0174AUQI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I have the Reiff standard heater on my IO-390, two 100 watt heaters mounted on the rear of the oil pan.
With the weather in my area similar to yours, I find 3 hours of preheat will raise the oil temp about 40 to 45 degrees above ambient, I do cover the engine with a heavy blanket and plug the cowling.
A WIFI hotspot allows control and temperature monitoring from home.
The setup has performed well.

I have the same. 14 years no issues. Turn on for 3-4 hours before flight boost oil 40 deg. Turn on night before and oil up to 70ish deg F temp and inside of cowl feels toasty warm using quilt over cowl and cowl plugs.
 
There is another thread with the same title so I decided to start a new thread instead of hijacking the other one.

I am up in Mid Michigan where it can get down to -15F. I am going to put in the Reiff system on an IO390. I was planning on the sump heater and the cylinder heaters. Two questions:

1. should I go with the standard system, turbo system, or the turbo XP system?
2. Is it worth while putting on the Oil Cooler Heater? It seems to make sense to put this in place if you want to only plan to heat for a short period of time prior to start.
3. put a system in to turn the heat on to the hangar the night before flying? Gas powered radiatant heat. Not sure this is possible and probably costs the most in the long run.

thanks
I had the Reiff hot strips only on my IO-540 RV-10 up here in Gladwin. During cold weather ops I would hanger the plane with a heavily blanket over the cowling and plug the intake air inlets. I would turn the heat on using a phone switch about 3-4 hours ahead of time. The whole engine was warm to the touch, including the cylinders when I arrived at the hanger. I could see no reason for the cylinder heating bands.
 
Reiff heater

I have the Reiff standard version and works well in Arkansas winter. I use a wifi relay and a hotspot to turn on remotely. Set it to turn on under 55f and it warms to 100f in about 6 to 8 hrs.

With your winter....I'd recommend Turbo xp and plug the inlet/blanket over the cowling....it'd be toasty when your ready to fly.

Starting the engine in COLD weather damages the engine.

Larry
N687VR
 
Last one we had was the reiff turbo xp. I like the reiff because it has the cylinder bands and doesn't displace the cht probes
 
big metal heat sinks???....

tests by one of the heater manufacturers showed that heat loss thru an uncovered prop was significant....more so outdoors where a slight breeze would suck the heat out quickly.
a couple of large wool 'shrek' size socks should be quick and effective insulation!! ;-)
the next largest metal surface would be the firewall...a little tougher to insulate...but way less transfer there.
 
Zerostart Silicone Pad Heater

I had a Reiff and it burned out after a hand full of cycles and service was poor. My advice is to use something that is flexible vs rigid plates that Reiff uses. Below is what I got for my new engine. It's thermostatically controlled, priced right and really nice. Much better IMO. I don?t think you will want to fly in -15F, but if you do, it will work fine if turned on in 4-5 hours before use. A cell switch, Amazon WiFi switch or a trip to the hangar to turn it on will all work. I use the $10 Amazon switch and a $3/month Ting hot spot and set it to turn on while I?m sleeping. Your entire engine compartment will be nice and warm if you use baffle plugs and a blanket over your cowl. If you go with a Reiff system, just two standard 100w plates will work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0174AUQI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A few PMed me asking how the $79 Zerostart 3400033 Silicone Pad Heater linked above fit. This is on a verticle sump superior IO-360. The metal was left unpainted and scuffed prior to applying the self-adhesive pad. The pad is a 3.5x4.5 250W thermostatically controlled heating pad (on at 170F, off at 200F). The wire will be routed behind the engine plate and secured with an adel clamp.
 

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It sure does . .

tests by one of the heater manufacturers showed that heat loss thru an uncovered prop was significant....more so outdoors where a slight breeze would suck the heat out quickly.
a couple of large wool 'shrek' size socks should be quick and effective insulation!! ;-)
the next largest metal surface would be the firewall...a little tougher to insulate...but way less transfer there.

My 10 Friend tested his 540 with the Reiff sump and bands and it was happily faster with prop socks on it. 5 winters and no issues. He uses WIFI, I use a phone switch (now owned by Tannis). Excellent service by Tannis too.
 
We get real winter here. More watts = Better Plain and simple.

Went with Reiff Turbo XP including oil cooler heater. Control it via wifi switch. Aircraft is hangared in what amounts to little more than a tin farm equipment shed where snow blows in under the door and there's zero insulation. Insulation comes from an engine blanket made by Aero-Covers - their Thinsulate model.

I'm extremely pleased with this setup - better than anything I've used before.
 
I have been using a Reiff oil sump and cylinder bands on my O-360 Piper Cherokee for 17 years. Wow, I've had it that long? It sat outside for most of that time, but I had electricity in several different spots thru the years. I would go out and plug it in the night before and it would be fine with just cowl plugs. The last few I've had a hangar and I drape an old comforter over the cowl and another one over the prop and wrap it the best I can, but really just wrap it over itself. Engine turns over like it's June.
 
I have been using a Reiff oil sump and cylinder bands on my O-360 Piper Cherokee for 17 years. Wow, I've had it that long? It sat outside for most of that time, but I had electricity in several different spots thru the years. I would go out and plug it in the night before and it would be fine with just cowl plugs. The last few I've had a hangar and I drape an old comforter over the cowl and another one over the prop and wrap it the best I can, but really just wrap it over itself. Engine turns over like it's June.

My Reiff looked like this after around 2 years and estimated 25 cycles. Since I wasn't the builder, Reiff said the warranty was void and they left me out in the "cold" so to speak. I'm trying something different at a fraction of the price that seems to work well in the trucking industry.
 

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