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  #31  
Old 01-15-2020, 07:00 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,544
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Mehrdad, that looks like a great pump. A bit pricey, but no doubt it will work well.

BillL, I just put ports into a 1-gallon jug of gel beads. One port in the cap, and one in the side of the jug about 2" up from the bottom. The beads are about 1/10" diameter on average, some bigger. One difference between what I tried and what is shown in pictures by TShort on a different thread is that he sucked through the silica jug, while I am trying to blow through it. I can not feel any suction at all on the inlet port on the Tetra Whisper 60. Again, I sealed the case inlet with calk and tapped a 1/8NPT port into the case.
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RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
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  #32  
Old 01-28-2020, 07:34 AM
Aviaman's Avatar
Aviaman Aviaman is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 93
Default Engine Dehumidifier

I just built a prototype of my own design. Unlike most, I am not doing it closed loop. I?ll explain why. First, it?s difficult to connect to the breather tube, which rests on an exhaust pipe. And I dont want to alter that. But it is almost inaccessible, practically speaking it?s a big hassle. OK, what about losing the advantage of closed loop ? The advantage of closed loop is touted as getting a lower final humidity, and not needing to rejuvenate the silica as often. I addressed this by using a 10 ft long 3/4? ID clear tubing as the Silica container.
I coil it up for compactness. The idea is that the very long length amounts to a series of successive reductions in humidity. Suppose the first ft lowers humidity by 10%. And the next ft lowers THAT another 10%, and so on. What this amounts to is that the humidity at each stage is .90 times the previous stage. So the final humidity would be (0.9)^10=.35. This is an example, not necessarily the actual numbers. And there are other subtle complications to this, but we will not get into that. In running this, it worked where the upstream blue changed to pink, progressively as time accumulated. I ran 24 hrs continuously to see how fast the silica would change color. About 1.5 ft of upstream silica had changed after that time. However in actual use, I am using a timer to turn this on and off automatically. I have a timer that has 24 selections, each allowing a 1/2 hr on period. Supposing that I set 4 periods of 1/2 hr duration per day, that?s 2 hrs a day. Based on the 24 hr experiment, it would be many days before rejuvenation would be required. Probably weeks. So I think this accomplishes a simplification over closed loop, while retaining its advantages.
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Cessna 170B-sold
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Vans RV-6 slider-sold
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  #33  
Old 01-28-2020, 08:23 AM
Pilot135pd's Avatar
Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vaca Moo Airport - TA37 in East TEXAS
Posts: 1,330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviaman View Post
I just built a prototype of my own design. Unlike most, I am not doing it closed loop. I’ll explain why. First, it’s difficult to connect to the breather tube, which rests on an exhaust pipe. And I dont want to alter that. But it is almost inaccessible, practically speaking it’s a big hassle. OK, what about losing the advantage of closed loop ? The advantage of closed loop is touted as getting a lower final humidity, and not needing to rejuvenate the silica as often. I addressed this by using a 10 ft long 3/4” ID clear tubing as the Silica container.
I coil it up for compactness. The idea is that the very long length amounts to a series of successive reductions in humidity. Suppose the first ft lowers humidity by 10%. And the next ft lowers THAT another 10%, and so on. What this amounts to is that the humidity at each stage is .90 times the previous stage. So the final humidity would be (0.9)^10=.35. This is an example, not necessarily the actual numbers. And there are other subtle complications to this, but we will not get into that. In running this, it worked where the upstream blue changed to pink, progressively as time accumulated. I ran 24 hrs continuously to see how fast the silica would change color. About 1.5 ft of upstream silica had changed after that time. However in actual use, I am using a timer to turn this on and off automatically. I have a timer that has 24 selections, each allowing a 1/2 hr on period. Supposing that I set 4 periods of 1/2 hr duration per day, that’s 2 hrs a day. Based on the 24 hr experiment, it would be many days before rejuvenation would be required. Probably weeks. So I think this accomplishes a simplification over closed loop, while retaining its advantages.
I like your setup, simple to make and not many moving parts or sensors and even if anyone says it's not efficient it's still better than not doing anything for those times I can't go out and fly for a while ! Do you have pictures to complete my mental image of what you did? If you can't post a picture could you PM or email it to me? Thank you !!
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  #34  
Old 02-26-2020, 03:57 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,733
Default engine dehydrator

I decided to set one up like this. Minimal cost. Well, less than $100. In the Spring I get condensation on the floor more than any other season. Debating with myself over closed loop, or not?

https://youtu.be/AQRZBwzU54Q
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RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all

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My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
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Last edited by Steve Melton : 02-26-2020 at 04:04 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-26-2020, 04:29 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Melton View Post
I decided to set one up like this. Minimal cost. Well, less than $100. In the Spring I get condensation on the floor more than any other season. Debating with myself over closed loop, or not?

https://youtu.be/AQRZBwzU54Q
So where I settled on the open loop vs closed loop question is that if I am going to be around at the hangar for a little while, I will run it open loop for a half hour, then put it on closed loop and it runs on a jacuzi timer for an hour and shuts off.

The idea is that initially, the gases inside the engine are way more humid than the ambient air, so open loop makes more sense. After a half hour or so, hopefully most of that moisture has been purged out, and then finishing up with an hour of closed-loop should leave it pretty darn dry. Then leaving the system all connected minimizes the diffusion of new moisture in as it sits awaiting its next opportunity to go fly.
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RV-8 N825RV
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bought my old LS6-A back!!
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  #36  
Old 02-26-2020, 04:35 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,733
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that makes sense. I purchased a whisper 10 gal fish tank pump, plan to cycle on and off each hour.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2020, 04:59 PM
TimO TimO is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 612
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I built 2 of them for my planes late last year. The canisters are Ocean Spray juice containers, and it's a sizeable amount, and it has a pump with 2 outputs.
I also bought vinyl caps for the exhaust (added "remove before flight" ribbons) to seal the exhaust. I bought stoppers and a stopper boring tool. Each plane used different stopper sizes for the dipstick hole and the crankcase vent. I did a closed loop system so I wouldn't have to change desiccant as often. I doubt it matters but I blow air in the dipstick and out the crankcase vent.
The first week or so I had it, it was an open loop system. My desiccant started to change color real soon. (I run my 24x7) After I switched to closed loop, I haven't even had it change color much at all. It looks nearly new. I feel much better about my engine with this thing on it, and although the moisture in the hangar is worst in the spring/winter, I think I'll just keep using this thing year round. It's working so well and if the Desiccant hasn't changed color now in over 2 months, it won't be much of a maintenance hassle.

There's more info on my site, but here are some pics.



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  #38  
Old 02-26-2020, 05:28 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Location: 8I3
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AN4062 spark plug dehydrators have been around forever and they do work. Why not just make a larger version that fits down in the dipstick tube? Cap off breather and exhausts, screw this contraption in instead of the dipstick, done.
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  #39  
Old 02-26-2020, 05:44 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
AN4062 spark plug dehydrators have been around forever and they do work. Why not just make a larger version that fits down in the dipstick tube? Cap off breather and exhausts, screw this contraption in instead of the dipstick, done.
I have been using a barbed brass garden hose with an O ring on it. It does fit well and the price is around $4-5 bucks.
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  #40  
Old 02-26-2020, 06:08 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
I have been using a barbed brass garden hose with an O ring on it. It does fit well and the price is around $4-5 bucks.
I'm talking about making a dehydrator that fits in its entirety inside the dipstick tube.

In Continentals its common to see rust in the dipstick tube as water vapor tends to condensate there as the engine cools down.
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N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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