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Removing a Step

EXTAAFLY

Well Known Member
Has anybody ever removed a step (tail dragger, completed / flying airplane)?

In the process of redoing my avionics and wiring, I discovered some interesting installation techniques. Had to remove the baggage floor temporarily to pull some wiring. Not sure, maybe this is the way it is supposed to be installed. The left rudder cable is laying across the step structure. It just doesn't look right to me. With the baggage floor secured with blind rivets, this is an area that is difficult, if not impossible to inspect and keep an eye on. 18 year old and 900 hours, cable doesn't show any signs of wear. Maybe I am being overly concerned. I thought about re-installing the floor with nutplates, but that presents a cascading bit of rework with significant portions of the floor having to be removed and reinstalled. That being said, there are aesthetic reasons I want to remove as well.

I am thinking of removing the step and replacing the aluminum as if it didn't have a step. Has anybody ever attempted this? Are there original installation techniques that make this a one way street? Have any advice? Is it even possible?

Thank you
 

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Jason,

I've seen a few RV8s and never seen one with a step ( not counting the A models). I'd take it off it it were my plane.

BWTHDIK
 
step

i have both removed and installed in an 8 . please call 5413267851 ,i am not any good with a compuertor. butch milani.
 
The instructions have you put some UHMW tape on the step tube since the cable runs on it.
I’m putting a shortened step on my 8, as it can be a reach for some folks to clear the flap. And I’m not getting any younger... There is supposedly no impact on speed.
 
Step

I did the opposite, I added a step to an already flying -8 taildragger. I used the -8A plans and step w/associated parts. . When finished the rudder cables were not even close to the step tubing. Not sure why yours is so close/rubbing. Once you remove the step you will need at least new flap/fuselage fairing. Plus you may end up with a patch on the fuselage above where the fairing attaches. Unless you change that entire lower fuselage skin.... still need to repaint the step and attachment area. Sorry the picture is sideways.
 

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Has anybody ever removed a step (tail dragger, completed / flying airplane)?

In the process of redoing my avionics and wiring, I discovered some interesting installation techniques. Had to remove the baggage floor temporarily to pull some wiring. Not sure, maybe this is the way it is supposed to be installed. The left rudder cable is laying across the step structure. It just doesn't look right to me. With the baggage floor secured with blind rivets, this is an area that is difficult, if not impossible to inspect and keep an eye on. 18 year old and 900 hours, cable doesn't show any signs of wear. Maybe I am being overly concerned. I thought about re-installing the floor with nutplates, but that presents a cascading bit of rework with significant portions of the floor having to be removed and reinstalled. That being said, there are aesthetic reasons I want to remove as well.

I am thinking of removing the step and replacing the aluminum as if it didn't have a step. Has anybody ever attempted this? Are there original installation techniques that make this a one way street? Have any advice? Is it even possible?

Thank you

Jason,
You just drilled out those aluminum pop rivets and removed your floors/baggage sheet metal.. Didn't you find that to be fairly easy? A long 12" 1/8 drill bit and a angle drill makes it even easier. The only thing that slowed you down was removing the rivet heads from the drill bit.

Installing nutplates and using steel screws to secure the floors will add weight and add lots of time removing and installing all those screws to remove the floors in the future. It will also force you to drill out a steel screw instead of a soft aluminum rivet when you strip the head out of one of those screws!

Just replace the pop rivets and you're good to go! It will also save your back installing all those nutplates. Trust me!
 
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My -8A would have had a similar issue when installing the step. I don't remember there being a note about UHMW tape in the instructions at the time. Instead of bending the tube like that, I had a friend put the step tube in a mill and cut out a 1/2" radius notch in the top of step tube to make clearance for the rudder cable. He then welded a small piece of scrap steel tube in the notch that was cut and then ground off all the excess material and slag. It's not a structural part (for flight loads at least), so I wasn't terribly concerned about it. I think the plans call for that black block to be mounted fairly low on the rib. Mine didn't get mounted as low as designed, leading to a little interference.
 
Jason,
You just drilled out those aluminum pop rivets and removed your floors/baggage sheet metal.. Didn't you find that to be fairly easy? A long 12" 1/8 drill bit and a angle drill makes it even easier. The only thing that slowed you down was removing the rivet heads from the drill bit.

Installing nutplates and using steel screws to secure the floors will add weight and add lots of time removing and installing all those screws to remove the floors in the future. It will also force you to drill out a steel screw instead of a soft aluminum rivet when you strip the head out of one of those screws!

Just replace the pop rivets and you're good to go! It will also save your back installing all those nutplates. Trust me!

Carl, thank you for the drawings. The airplane is at a shop a couple of hours away. I will be there again on Monday. That is the first thing I'll check.

Thank you Danny.

I agree. It was an initial thought to make it easier to inspect the rudder cable. I am going to replace the pop rivets after we finish the project. If I don't remove the step, I am thinking about a small inspection plate just above the step attach. However, I'll likely remove it all together at some point.
 
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